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Old Jul 8, 2010 | 06:21 AM
  #1  
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New guy intro

Hey everyone, I guess this another "intro" thread. I just picked up an 03 evo 8, but I've been in the DSM game for a while and have been lurking the forums for some time reading up on all the good info. So I wanted to post up some background on myself and some info on the new car....

I've been a "DSMer" since about 2004 when I picked up my first 95 Talon TSi AWD. So far I've owned (2) 95 Talon AWDs, (1) 91 Talon FWD, (1) 97 Eclipse GS-T, and (2) Evo 8's. Since my new purchase I currently own a 95 Talon with a 6 bolt swap that should be running low 11's and very streetable once I give it a good tune, and now the latest 03 evo 8.

So here's the story behind the latest purchase. I bought the car from TurboTrix. I've never dealt with them before but I've heard mixed reviews. So far my experience with them has been nothing but a pleasure. The guys there are real down to earth and more than helpful. When I first looked at the car they explained the whole situation about the car. They bought it was a blown motor and just wanted to get it running and sell it. So they took an evo 9 bottom end with 11k miles from a running car in their shop (that got a new race motor), rebuilt the head, new head gasket and all and put it together. They also put in a new ACT clutch and put new Redline trans fluid. The car had some minor mods from what I saw: open air filter, vented bov (will be replaced with a 1g immediately), mbc, Autometer gauges (boost, coolant temp), Greddy turbo timer, cat back exhaust (not sure what brand/name), and some flip out dvd player. At the time I just heard it idle and didn't bother test driving it because I had to leave the next day for a business trip.

When I came back, the car was still there so I went and took it for a test drive. I drove around Edison and the car felt solid. I noticed the gauges weren't working correctly, and the coolant gauge on the gauge cluster was also not working. So they said they would fix the gauge in the cluster since I didn't care about the aftermarket gauges. They also said they were going to cut the front rotors since they were a little warped, and change the fluid in the rear diff as well as find a recirculating bov to replace the vented one. I gave them a deposit and came the next day to pick it up. The car was ready and everything fixed as they said except for the bov since they didn't have one to give me. They drove me over to the DMV so I could get the title and reg and I drove it home.

So driving on the parkway at 65-70MPH I noticed a vibrating of the steering wheel, so I'm thinking it needs an alignment or an out of balance wheel. Not a big issue. Then the molding on the roof came loose and was flopping around so I took it off and put it in the car. Then getting off the highway I hear a "click click click" when making a right turn, so I immediately thought it was a CV joint. So I got it home and got it up in the air to check the cv boots for any damage and/or grease. They looked fine, but I noticed a small drip from under the timing belt cover. So I called the guys at TTR and they said they would have no problem fixing the issues if I can bring the car by. Unfortunately they were almost 2 hours from my house and I didn't feel safe driving it that far since I wasn't sure exactly what was wrong, so I took it to a local shop who verified the driver's side outer tie rod end was shot, so I replaced them on both sides in the front. That fixed the clicking noise on right turns.

Then I determined the vibrating steering wheel was from a wheel out of balance so I had all 4 wheels balanced and it feels MUCH better. I also noticed the driver's side front shock was blown as there was oil everywhere and its very very soft. So I actually picked up a full set of shocks/springs assembled from an evo 9 with 15k miles for $250 and I will put them on this weekend.

So I have a few issues left that I am working on:
1) Find/fix the oil leak under the timing belt cover
2) Replace the suspension
3) Replace all rotors/pads (better to be safe)
4) Replace roof molding
5) Replace bov

After that the car should be nearly perfect. I still haven't had a chance to take it to TTR, but they said they are more than willing to help fix the car, so I have to say they did a great job. I knew for the price of the car that there would be some minor issues, and I'm totally cool with it as these are things I can fix. I did some reading on the forums and I'm thinking (from what I've seen) that the oil leak is from a loose tensioner bolt and hopefully a quick tightening of the bolt will fix the issue. Otherwise it's probably a cam or crank seal gone bad.

Anyway, I'm going to fix some of these issues and get the car detailed and then I will post up some pictures. So thanks for the space, thanks for all the great info on hear, and I'll post back up with pics soon.
Old Jul 8, 2010 | 06:25 AM
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welcome
Old Jul 9, 2010 | 03:11 PM
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So I thought I would give a little update (even though nobody is probably reading this....)

Some more updates.....

Long day of working on DSMs! I needed to put the new alternator and battery in Talon and button it up, put the new suspension I got from Mark on the evo, and try to locate the oil leak on the evo...



So I started out putting the new suspension on the evo. Holy sh*t! It is like 20 billion times easier to do than on a 2g! Using a small jack and jack stands and taking a number of water breaks (very hot), I got it all done in under 2 hours. With a lift and air tools, this is a 30 minute job. Awesome.

Since I got it done so quickly I decided to investigate this oil leak. I read some articles on evoM that lead me to believe the leak was coming from a bolt in the timing belt auto tensioner. So I read up on some timing belt replacement articles so learn what I need to do to get the timing belt cover off. Again, much easier than on the 2g once I figured out how to get it all done.

I got everything off and took a look. I cleaned up the oil a bit and low and behold, it looks like oil was coming from behind the left bolt in the auto tensioner. Bad pics, but you can probably get the idea...




So I called up TurboTrix to see what they recommend using to seal it. They told me black RTV, so I did it on both bolts to be on the safe side. I let it cure for a few hours while I put the Talon back together (I'll get to that in a minute). So then I put the pulleys and belt back on without the timing cover and turned on the car to see if it was still leaking. Well I smell something burning and see some smoking so I immediately turn off the car. Apparently I didn't have the belt seated on the A/C compressor correctly so I sheared off the edge of the belt!

Buttoned up the Talon to drive to the auto parts store. It starts fine, but the voltage is still below 12 so I can't connect to DSMLink or use my windows apparently. So I drive it to the store anyway, figuring the alternator will charge the battery. I made it there and back, but the voltage varied between 11.2 and 11.6 and was actually going down the more I drove it. So it looks like I have some fun troubleshooting ahead of me....

So anyway, I get back with the new belt and put it on. Run the car, and it does not appear to be leaking anymore, so I shut it off. Took the belt and pulleys off, put the timing cover back on and everything back together. Turned it on again to make sure everything is good, and it looked fine.

I also got a 1g bov and the JMF adapter in the mail today, but I forgot to order a gasket!! D'oh! Plus I need a return tube to connect back to the intake....

Anyway, didn't get to drive it yet, but I will go out shortly to see if it still leaks and see if the suspension feels any better.

Anyone want my old suspension for super super super cheap??
Old Jul 9, 2010 | 04:00 PM
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Guss that didn't fix the leak. I took it for a test drive and it's still dripping. Either I should have let it cure overnight or I should have just used a high temp thread sealant. Guess I'll have another go at it next weekend.

On the plus side, with the new suspension it feels a 100% better. No weird noises, no sloppy turns...just needs a good 4 wheel alignment.
Old Jul 10, 2010 | 12:03 PM
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Welcome my friend. Good luck and I hope you get her fixed soon!!!
Old Jul 10, 2010 | 12:05 PM
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Good luck! nice rides too
Old Jul 11, 2010 | 08:30 AM
  #7  
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Thanks guys. The car is already in much better shape then when I bought it. The ride is much better with the new suspension and with the RTV fix, the oil leak is at least a little smaller. Next weekend I should have it fixed properly. Also the vented bov will be replaced by a 1g recirculated, and I should probably have new brakes all around as well...plus a good alignment!
Old Jul 11, 2010 | 09:09 AM
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Nice job man, Im surprised your taking it all on yourself though. I'd have just driven the car back to ttr for them to do everything properly, and if it would break on the road there, well, thats their problem.

Thats the spirit though!
I can't wait to get mine on the road this week. Im waiting on my Widebody to be finished.

Nice intro and Welcome though!
Old Jul 11, 2010 | 05:41 PM
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Thanks man! I spoke with TTR a number of times and every time I spoke with them they were more than willing to fix it for free. Unfortunately I didn't feel safe driving it over an hour to their shop on the Parkway or Route 287, plus I didn't have another car to drive in the meantime. So it was just more convenient for me to fix myself in my spare time. Plus, it's much more satisfying knowing I did the work myself. It makes driving the car more enjoyable.
Old Jul 23, 2010 | 11:43 AM
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Just thought I'd post a little update. I got two brand new OEM bolts for the timing belt tensioner and used Permatex high temp thread sealant and let it cure overnight. I drove it around today to run some errands and get a 4 wheel alignment. I didn't notice any leaks when I left the parking lots, but when I got home and jacked up the car it appears as though there is still a leak. I didn't get to take the timing belt cover off (too hot today), but it appears as though it may be coming from the oil pan. It looks like TTR used copper RTV to seal it which makes me leary. I'm debating on weather I want to re-seal the oil pan with Right Stuff gasket maker or take it to TTR and have them fix it.
Old Jul 23, 2010 | 11:48 AM
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nice cars and welcome to the forum

-anthony
Old Aug 4, 2010 | 11:02 AM
  #12  
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So here's so more updates.....

-- Keith fixed the oil leak on Tuesday (August 3rd) for me and I picked it up that night. He said it was the oil pump sprocket was cracked so he replaced with a new one, and I haven't seen any leaks now.

-- I have new rear rotors and full set of Hawk HPS pads sitting in my garage and should go on tomorrow night or Friday.

-- License plate holder and stock airbox with K&N drop in should arrive tomorrow and will go on the car

-- Just ordered a new set of 17 x 8 rims with a new set of Hankook Ventus V12 evo K110 245/45/17 tires

-- Also just ordered MIL-SPEC TB shaft seals (I'm sure it's leaking), new NGK plugs, and a new Autometer 30-0-30 mech boost gauge with a single gauge pod for the steering column.

I'm hoping the new wheels and brakes stop the vibrating at highway speeds, and I'm hoping the new TB shaft seals will fix the vacuum leak that is causing my stock 1g BOV to flutter on the evo. Maybe I'll even get to wash and detail it this weekend.
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