Building My Motor, few Questions?
#1
Building My Motor, few Questions?
Hello Evom, I'm not sure if im posting this thread in the right place but anyway, I'm planning to build my motor this winter, I want my car to be able to make 800-900 awhp, but it will be my daily driver fall/spring/summer, so it will be tuned to around 700 awhp. My ultimate goal is to have one of the fastest street car evos and just have a reliable car
2.0 Build
Precision 6262 Turbo
Anyway here are my questions:
1. Does anyone know where i can find ACL Race HX Main + Rod Bearings? I know Maperformance carries these bearings but im not sure if its the HX bearings and ive been to lazy to call. and should i get the standard size or .25mm/.10?
2. Manley I-Beam Rods or Crower I-Beam Rods?
3. I know ARP Makes L19 Head studs, do they also make L19 Main bolts and Rod Bolts? and where can i find them?
4. Stock Crankshaft or Manley Forged Crankshaft?
Thats about all the questions i have for now.
2.0 Build
Precision 6262 Turbo
Anyway here are my questions:
1. Does anyone know where i can find ACL Race HX Main + Rod Bearings? I know Maperformance carries these bearings but im not sure if its the HX bearings and ive been to lazy to call. and should i get the standard size or .25mm/.10?
2. Manley I-Beam Rods or Crower I-Beam Rods?
3. I know ARP Makes L19 Head studs, do they also make L19 Main bolts and Rod Bolts? and where can i find them?
4. Stock Crankshaft or Manley Forged Crankshaft?
Thats about all the questions i have for now.
#4
thanks alot, where can i find those rod bolts? and i kind of want the car to be built like a race car, im use to driving a fully built race honda everyday, at first its absolutely -_- dreadful but after a while you get use to it.
#6
thanks alot , i was leaning towards manley. well we'll see, my friend is the one building the car for me at his shop and he told me lol he'll make the car comfortable for me to drive everyday, the thing is i live in new york city, i wont see 700 hp everday lol , the car will be driven regular and occasionally i will rip it , i have few friends who have 700 hp e85/ 600 hp pump gas evos as daily drivers, cars have never really had problems, again it depends on who builds your car, and my car is going to best shop in new york and one of the top shops on the east coast in my opinion
#7
You should also look in to Map rods good for 1000WHP and there at a good price and they come with the 625+ rod bolts also i would go with forge crank if your going to have it at 700+ DD but the stock one will hold up if you want save some money.
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#8
Hi I just made 561hp 463t on a 6262 and am looking to do a 2.3 build I'm going with ams spec pistons and manley I " turbo.tuff" rods and manley "turbo tuff" crank. Arp l19 head studs. I'm getting some other new stuff like oil pump starter blah blah..since your going with a 2.0 if you haven't did the valves or valve seal.i would look in do upgrading in that department as well. Im hoping to make 750 + . I dont drive my car daily but I do go out and drive hard 3/7 days a week
#10
Hi I just made 561hp 463t on a 6262 and am looking to do a 2.3 build I'm going with ams spec pistons and manley I " turbo.tuff" rods and manley "turbo tuff" crank. Arp l19 head studs. I'm getting some other new stuff like oil pump starter blah blah..since your going with a 2.0 if you haven't did the valves or valve seal.i would look in do upgrading in that department as well. Im hoping to make 750 + . I dont drive my car daily but I do go out and drive hard 3/7 days a week
Nice sounds like fun are you still planning to keep the 6262 or upgrading to a bigger turbo? I'm not sure if im building my head or buying the cosworth head but if i decide to build i will definitely do the valves
Quick Question, i know i might sound like a noob, but why go with a 2.3?
from what i know that usually means thinning out the block, ofcourse you will able to handle more boost, but arent you afraid of the cylinder walls will crack,
I want to do a 2.0 build because they make power on low boost which was apart of my goal to use as least boost as possible
#11
Thanks for the referral! The rod bolts we use aren't the 625+ but they are 7/16" ARP2000 and have been proven to 1053whp
Last edited by ChrisCarey; Jan 24, 2011 at 10:02 AM.
#12
I'm a bit biased but I love our MAP Ultimate Duty Rods, they are the cheapest I beam on the market plus we utilize 7/16 ARP rod bolts and early 4g63 bearings to support more load.
We used a stock polished and balanced crank in our drag car, but the Manley is a great option as well.
Last edited by ChrisCarey; Jan 24, 2011 at 10:03 AM.
#13
Quick Question, i know i might sound like a noob, but why go with a 2.3?
from what i know that usually means thinning out the block, ofcourse you will able to handle more boost, but arent you afraid of the cylinder walls will crack,
I want to do a 2.0 build because they make power on low boost which was apart of my goal to use as least boost as possible
from what i know that usually means thinning out the block, ofcourse you will able to handle more boost, but arent you afraid of the cylinder walls will crack,
I want to do a 2.0 build because they make power on low boost which was apart of my goal to use as least boost as possible
#14
We should have all of these sizes in stock, for a DD you're going to want to stay with standard size bearings. No reason not to run the race bearings though, especially with those goals in mind.
I'm a bit biased but I love our MAP Ultimate Duty Rods, they are the cheapest I beam on the market plus we utilize 7/16 ARP rod bolts and early 4g63 bearings to support more load.
Check out the studs we have A1 Technologies make for us, MAP Ultimate Duty Head Studs. They feature a dog point on the block side to ensure accurate and repeatable torque. In regards to main bolts and rod bolts there is no need to go with an H11 / L19 material as the limits of the ARP2000 versions has yet to be realized.
We used a stock polished and balanced crank in our drag car, but the Manley is a great option as well.
I'm a bit biased but I love our MAP Ultimate Duty Rods, they are the cheapest I beam on the market plus we utilize 7/16 ARP rod bolts and early 4g63 bearings to support more load.
Check out the studs we have A1 Technologies make for us, MAP Ultimate Duty Head Studs. They feature a dog point on the block side to ensure accurate and repeatable torque. In regards to main bolts and rod bolts there is no need to go with an H11 / L19 material as the limits of the ARP2000 versions has yet to be realized.
We used a stock polished and balanced crank in our drag car, but the Manley is a great option as well.
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