I would never do a wire transfer for a car, seems too risky.

 

Paid cash with a certified bank check, had a bill of sale drawn up and had the sellers info and the keys and the car was shipped down to me.

 

Always cash, easier for both parties

 

I've purchased a car with a lien on it and there's a fair bit of trust involved if you don't use escrow. It generally involves giving the seller a check that they can use to pay off the car, and then waiting for the paperwork to go through before you can get the title to the car. Most sellers don't realize that they don't really have the title when they still owe on the car, so it's kind of a pain.

There's a company I met called Carlypso that makes things easier for buyers and sellers, they handle the escrow process and marketing/selling the car.

 

We paid cash for ours. Looked at several (10-15) and didn't want one with a lien on it and have to worry about getting title after or before shipping. Don't wire money or anything like that! I bought mine from a guy that was in the same city < 5 miles away from me...found out it was the same Evo VIII I used to own based on VIN number. I was glad to have my VIII back in my hands.

BMH

 

Since you are in Australia you should consider importing an Evo from Japan. Find a respectable importer near you, tell them your price range and desired year/spec/condition. If you want to be proactive you can search the auctions yourself http://auction.b-pro.ca/

As for payment, if the seller is a respected business wire transfer is fine (just make sure you have a written contract before you send payment). If its local, cash is king. Walk them into a bank branch and have the teller hand them a stack of cash in exchange for the title.

P.S. If you can afford it get a Evo 6 TME. You can thank me later.

 

Might be different in Aus, but here (USA) I would first draw up a sales agreement. Printed (not hand written) just saying the price of the car, any deposit paid, conditions on which the sales agreement can be canceled (i.e. "agreement contingent on loan approval" -- letting you back out if a loan isn't approved, recommended if you are getting a loan).

An example would be:

I, [sellers name], am agreeing to sell my [year] [make] [model] [vin] to [buyers name] for [total price], (optionally: contingent on buyers loan approval). A [deposit amount] has been paid and the car must be purchased by [date] or this agreement expires and seller can sell the car to someone else.

Buyer __________________

Seller __________________


Pretty straight forward. This will both give you some legal ground to stand on should they take your money and try to run, as well as protect you from jerks that say they'll sell it to you then turn around and sell it to someone else (illegal in the USA, but tough to prove -- verbal agreements are binding).

As for the type of currency, I'd do either cash or check. If they want to wait for a check to clear, most banks (at least in the USA) will cash a check on the spot if it was issued by them, even if the person cashing it doesn't have an account there (issuing banks must honor their checks or checks wouldn't be of much value!). So, he has the option of you writing the check there, and him immediately cashing it in front of them, giving you documentation you paid + giving him cash on the spot.

No matter what you choose, get a written sales agreement -- just in case.

 

im going through usaa. They cut you a check after approving you for however much you want and then you can put it in your bank. Then you can buy the car with cash or check through your bank.

 

Financed a brand new evo 9 mr in 2006. Great day!