boost gauge
#4
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it's the line that goes from bov to your intake manifold. tap the nearest line to the intake manifold and make sure the line isn't folded or crimped, because you wont get anything if they are.
BTW, did you know that you don't have to drill a hole in your firewall? There is a perfect size hole already in the driver side firewall.
BTW, did you know that you don't have to drill a hole in your firewall? There is a perfect size hole already in the driver side firewall.
#5
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You're best to tap the line running into your FPR. That is the place it is traditionally installed.
Leave the line from the intake to the BOV alone. You may want to tap that line later for a boost controller; and it's not highly recommended to tap the same line twice.
I also have an autometer and it's tapped before the FPR and works prefect boost and vac.
Good luck!
Leave the line from the intake to the BOV alone. You may want to tap that line later for a boost controller; and it's not highly recommended to tap the same line twice.
I also have an autometer and it's tapped before the FPR and works prefect boost and vac.
Good luck!
#7
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The vacuum line is not a wire. It’s a hose. You “tee” off one of the vacuum hoses that goes straight to the intake manifold. You can either tap the hose that goes from the intake manifold to the blow-off valve, or the hose that goes from the intake manifold to the fuel pressure regulator solenoid. If I were you, I’d mess with the BOV line as it will be safer if something goes wrong.
Do an advanced search under the “how to” section for “boost gauge install”. There should be a thread w/ pictures in it detailing an autometer boost gauge install.
Do an advanced search under the “how to” section for “boost gauge install”. There should be a thread w/ pictures in it detailing an autometer boost gauge install.
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#8
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If you do a sano job then there should be no problems with going to the FPR line but marksae makes a good point. If you have an open condition at the FPR your fuel pressue will drop. The fuel pressure is higher when boost is present as the FPR seeks to maintain a constant differential.
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Originally Posted by Hungbee112
You need a load on the engine in order to build any boost. In nuetral you shouldn't see much boost at all, so I say your gauge and setup is fine.
word ^
#13
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I've tapped the BOV line and it's working rather well. at idle, its between 15~20 psi VAC and it's tapping out at 19psi briefly on WOT around 4k~5k then it drops to 16~15psi.
When in Neutral rev, you go up to 0 psi and back down to 22PSI VAC and up back to 15~20 PSI VAC.
I hate the autometer ultra lite light. You can't read it well at night.
When in Neutral rev, you go up to 0 psi and back down to 22PSI VAC and up back to 15~20 PSI VAC.
I hate the autometer ultra lite light. You can't read it well at night.