ETS T4 - 4088R Twin Scroll Turbo Kit Assembled!
Dec 24, 2008, 12:16 AM
#31
Too fully take advantage of this kit you'd want to have a built bottom end. At the very least you'd need the following:
Rod bolts
1200cc injectors
255 Fuel pump
etc.
Even then you wouldnt want to push it too much on another wise stock bottom end. 500whp or so would be about as far as I'd go.
Rod bolts
1200cc injectors
255 Fuel pump
etc.
Even then you wouldnt want to push it too much on another wise stock bottom end. 500whp or so would be about as far as I'd go.
Dec 24, 2008, 12:43 AM
#32
I bought my car to a friend of mine with this list of mod to it:
-Exedy Twin HD Racing Clutch
-Robispec Suspension (Rear Sway Bar, Rear Bump Steer Kit, Swift MR Springs, Front Roll Center Kit, Tanabe Front/Middle/Rear Under Braces)
-Full Turbo Back Exhaust (Espelir Down Pipe, UR Test Pipe, Tanabe Touring Medallion Cat Back)
-Intercooler Upgrade (AMS FMIC, Nisei LICP, Fujita UICP)
-Intake (Fujita Intake Kit)
-Forge Manual Boost Controller
-Upgrade Fuel Pump (Walbro)
-ECU Tuning
-Dual Catch Can Setup
-Triple Dash Gauge Pod (Boost, Oil PSI, Oil Temp)
-Windows Just Tinted
-Taillights Just Smoked
-Exedy Twin HD Racing Clutch
-Robispec Suspension (Rear Sway Bar, Rear Bump Steer Kit, Swift MR Springs, Front Roll Center Kit, Tanabe Front/Middle/Rear Under Braces)
-Full Turbo Back Exhaust (Espelir Down Pipe, UR Test Pipe, Tanabe Touring Medallion Cat Back)
-Intercooler Upgrade (AMS FMIC, Nisei LICP, Fujita UICP)
-Intake (Fujita Intake Kit)
-Forge Manual Boost Controller
-Upgrade Fuel Pump (Walbro)
-ECU Tuning
-Dual Catch Can Setup
-Triple Dash Gauge Pod (Boost, Oil PSI, Oil Temp)
-Windows Just Tinted
-Taillights Just Smoked
Dec 24, 2008, 08:21 AM
#34
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I bought my car to a friend of mine with this list of mod to it:
-Exedy Twin HD Racing Clutch
-Robispec Suspension (Rear Sway Bar, Rear Bump Steer Kit, Swift MR Springs, Front Roll Center Kit, Tanabe Front/Middle/Rear Under Braces)
-Full Turbo Back Exhaust (Espelir Down Pipe, UR Test Pipe, Tanabe Touring Medallion Cat Back)
-Intercooler Upgrade (AMS FMIC, Nisei LICP, Fujita UICP)
-Intake (Fujita Intake Kit)
-Forge Manual Boost Controller
-Upgrade Fuel Pump (Walbro)
-ECU Tuning
-Dual Catch Can Setup
-Triple Dash Gauge Pod (Boost, Oil PSI, Oil Temp)
-Windows Just Tinted
-Taillights Just Smoked
-Exedy Twin HD Racing Clutch
-Robispec Suspension (Rear Sway Bar, Rear Bump Steer Kit, Swift MR Springs, Front Roll Center Kit, Tanabe Front/Middle/Rear Under Braces)
-Full Turbo Back Exhaust (Espelir Down Pipe, UR Test Pipe, Tanabe Touring Medallion Cat Back)
-Intercooler Upgrade (AMS FMIC, Nisei LICP, Fujita UICP)
-Intake (Fujita Intake Kit)
-Forge Manual Boost Controller
-Upgrade Fuel Pump (Walbro)
-ECU Tuning
-Dual Catch Can Setup
-Triple Dash Gauge Pod (Boost, Oil PSI, Oil Temp)
-Windows Just Tinted
-Taillights Just Smoked
As mentioned, rod bolts would be a good upgrade as well. They aren't expensive, but the labor is kind of expensive. You could stay low on boost and should be fine without them...but what's the point in buying this turbo to do that???
Dec 24, 2008, 10:10 AM
#36
Oh i see. How much did you spend on this turbo kit? how much the rod bolts normally cost with a decent brand/make? how much the installation? see if i can start saving now and do it later. thanks for the heads up
Well, the kit will come with a new O2 housing, downpipe and LICP to fit the turbo. So you can make some money back off selling the ones you have now. You show an upgraded fuel pump, but no injectors. You would probably need at least 1000cc injectors (depending on brand, some flow more than what they say they're rated for). If you EVER plan to run E85, you would need a double pumper and even bigger injectors.
As mentioned, rod bolts would be a good upgrade as well. They aren't expensive, but the labor is kind of expensive. You could stay low on boost and should be fine without them...but what's the point in buying this turbo to do that???
As mentioned, rod bolts would be a good upgrade as well. They aren't expensive, but the labor is kind of expensive. You could stay low on boost and should be fine without them...but what's the point in buying this turbo to do that???
Dec 24, 2008, 11:10 AM
#41
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Not true. You might be able to get a little more power out of a standalone, but the factory ECU should be able to work just fine with this setup unless you want to pretty much max the turbo out. Then a standalone would probably be required.
Dec 24, 2008, 11:16 AM
#42
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You don't really HAVE to get everything mentioned in that long list either. Sure, a fully ported head should make more power, but it's not REQUIRED. Same goes with the fuel lines. Just had a 2.3 tuned on a HTA35r and was running a double pumper with all stock fuel lines...with no issues and plenty of room to work. All those things would be REQUIRED if you were building a top notch street car or full out race car!
BTW - where can I get that double pumper you mention for $450? I really need one and that's a hell of a price.
BTW - where can I get that double pumper you mention for $450? I really need one and that's a hell of a price.
Dec 24, 2008, 12:52 PM
#45
Vancouver area near Portland. It is possible to run this turbo on a mostly stock motor. It is not what I would do or suggest but it is something that can be done as long as the power level is kept sane.
As far as the EMS thing, there are many ways around that actually. The stock ECU will work for the hp level that the car would have to run at on a stock motor even with the stock MAF. Above a certain point, a MAFT or MAFT pro are more inline for airflow calculations but before too long the stock ECU will be capable of almost as much as an EMS. Dont get me wrong, the AEM for instance, is something that wont be replaced easily. I am going to switch to one eventually but its not necessary if you are only trying to push 500whp or so on pump.
As far as the EMS thing, there are many ways around that actually. The stock ECU will work for the hp level that the car would have to run at on a stock motor even with the stock MAF. Above a certain point, a MAFT or MAFT pro are more inline for airflow calculations but before too long the stock ECU will be capable of almost as much as an EMS. Dont get me wrong, the AEM for instance, is something that wont be replaced easily. I am going to switch to one eventually but its not necessary if you are only trying to push 500whp or so on pump.