Autotune program
Oct 10, 2004, 12:53 AM
#3
Evolved Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (63)
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: CA
Posts: 1,660
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by BJai02
Well, in order to tune Autronic, you MUST use the Aototune program. If your question is rather we enable autotuning, I do that for all my non-boost zones.
Why not for the boost zones?
Oct 11, 2004, 08:26 AM
#4
Evolving Member
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Bay Area
Posts: 354
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I only do road tune with my car. There is no way I can make the car stay at a particular load/rpm site when boosted. It helps in there is a long stretch uphill, but I don't think it is possible to autotune anything above 3psi without going to dyno.
Oct 14, 2004, 07:43 PM
#5
Newbie
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Pacific NW
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
You don't have to use autotune, but it is sold at no cost with all the new SMC and SM2 ECU's
I used it when I tuned my rally car and it is THE hot lick.
I've also done minor tweaking in 'manual' mode and it is not hard to do. It is best to have the wide-band sensor and AFR display right in front of you when you do this, especially under load.
I used it when I tuned my rally car and it is THE hot lick.
I've also done minor tweaking in 'manual' mode and it is not hard to do. It is best to have the wide-band sensor and AFR display right in front of you when you do this, especially under load.
Nov 4, 2004, 04:23 PM
#7
Evolving Member
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Bay Area
Posts: 354
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by b18flip
what exactly is autotune? Does it allow you to set the desired AFR's and it pretty much tunes its self?
Trending Topics
Nov 12, 2004, 10:19 AM
#9
Newbie
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Pacific NW
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Just make sure you know what the AFR *should* be for each point in the load table or you will end up with very expensive melted bits of aluminum in your engine.
Adjusting timing is equally, if not more, sensitive and important. Timing is free power, but once you go too far....it isn't free anymore, but VERY expensive.
Adjusting timing is equally, if not more, sensitive and important. Timing is free power, but once you go too far....it isn't free anymore, but VERY expensive.
Dec 1, 2004, 01:12 AM
#11
Evolving Member
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Bay Area
Posts: 354
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by GOT EVO
Rally291
do you have any sugestions for A/F at each point in the load table. ill be going to autronic next week. thanks
Jeremy
do you have any sugestions for A/F at each point in the load table. ill be going to autronic next week. thanks
Jeremy
Dec 1, 2004, 03:53 PM
#12
Evolving Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Indiana
Posts: 415
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by BJai02
For what it worths, I tuned my EVO at 1.36 bar and 11.3 AFR, 91 octane. What kind of octane do you run? Do you have a wideband and going to tune it yourself?
Jeremy
Dec 3, 2004, 01:03 PM
#13
Newbie
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Pacific NW
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I run race gas (103) and that is what the car is mapped for. If you switch fuels, you should re-evaluate your map as different fuels have different octanes AND densities.
Generally speaking, 12.7:1 is normally VERY close to best power. HOwever, at high boost loads (lets say >15 psi) you want more fuel to help cool the piston crowns and intake valves so you run rich at those points in the map. For the 'cruise' settings (little or no boost) I run just on the rich side of stoichiometric (14.64:1) at about 14.6 and it runs fine.
I think I went to the low 13s for the 'throttle transition' points and 12.7 for the points between 10 and 15 psi. Above 15 psi I'm at about 11.6 or 11.8
I've seen cars that were mapped as rich as 10.8:1 and ran OK, just made a bit of black smoke at the gear change under heavy load.
What you want to avoid is going SO rich that you get into a scenario where you 'bore wash' the engine and burn up the rings. Basically what happens is that you spray SO much fuel that it washes the oil out of the cross-hatchings in the bores and the rings grate against the cylinder walls with no lube. This is a bad thing.
Its best to start rich and work your way toward lean than the other way around. Just don't go too far. Watching EGT and torque (if you're on a dyno) will tell you what you need to know.
Generally speaking, 12.7:1 is normally VERY close to best power. HOwever, at high boost loads (lets say >15 psi) you want more fuel to help cool the piston crowns and intake valves so you run rich at those points in the map. For the 'cruise' settings (little or no boost) I run just on the rich side of stoichiometric (14.64:1) at about 14.6 and it runs fine.
I think I went to the low 13s for the 'throttle transition' points and 12.7 for the points between 10 and 15 psi. Above 15 psi I'm at about 11.6 or 11.8
I've seen cars that were mapped as rich as 10.8:1 and ran OK, just made a bit of black smoke at the gear change under heavy load.
What you want to avoid is going SO rich that you get into a scenario where you 'bore wash' the engine and burn up the rings. Basically what happens is that you spray SO much fuel that it washes the oil out of the cross-hatchings in the bores and the rings grate against the cylinder walls with no lube. This is a bad thing.
Its best to start rich and work your way toward lean than the other way around. Just don't go too far. Watching EGT and torque (if you're on a dyno) will tell you what you need to know.
Last edited by Rally291; Dec 3, 2004 at 04:04 PM.
