TampaTurbo

iTrader: (7)

Is there something wrong with the programming in my UTEC or is there something that can be altered to cause or remove this. While driving or in nuetral, once the car hits 5k it studders, after that it goes away. Its very strange. When I set the switch to map 0 the studder is gone. This tells me there is something with the programming. I dont know its a fuel ot timing issue in the UTEC. Its only at 5K on the needle. Any ideas?

MalibuJack

iTrader: (5)

Actually it sounds like a misfire.. Lower your boost a bit and see what happens.. (lower it to like 16 or 17 psi) also take a few degrees of timing out of your map in that range..

I guess it could also be the rev limiter if its enabled and you disconnected the clutch switch for a turbo timer.. Oh wait, you said it goes away after 5000rpm which means it goes beyond that.. Hmm.. to me that sounds like fuel cut or a misfire..

Have you changed your plugs recently? Have you checked them? and if your using the 1.7 firmware, I have to assume you have OLF enabled.. If you don't, you'd still be at the mercy of the ECU fuel/boost cut...

Whenever I run my car in cold weather in Map0, I get fuel cut But I run colder than stock plugs, when they get old and the weather gets colder, I find that I get a misfire at right around 4500-5000 rpm..

MalibuJack

iTrader: (5)

Not to say there's nothing wrong with your UTEC, since there very well could be.. But rule out the simple stuff like plugs...

MalibuJack

iTrader: (5)

Hmm.. Read your post another time.. Still check your plugs, also look at your maps.. maybe there's a bit of a hole in the map at the load site for 5000rpm...

Is this happening at part throttle or only at WOT?

TampaTurbo

iTrader: (7)

It happens whenever the rpms hit 5k regardless of how I drive. I bought some new plugs to change them at the tune on Saturday but there is no point to do that if the UTEC is fugged up. I would have to go back and look at the maps but I saw nothing unusual before. Its like this problem just recently developed. I tried adding fuel at 5K but doesnt help. Its so nerve racking. I know you said patience was a virtue but man its like one thing after another. I am going crazy with this car.

TampaTurbo

iTrader: (7)

O by the way, I put the iridium 7s in the car about a month and a half ago. So they are fresh plus unless they work like ****. I bought the regular NGKbpr7es to put instead at the tune. I figured I would get the best tune possible with fresh plugs.

TampaTurbo

iTrader: (7)

O, remember it doesnt have this issue on Map 0. So plugs would probably not be an issue.

MalibuJack

iTrader: (5)

Yep, I understand it doesnt have an issue with passthrough, however with the passthrough the stock boost control is also in effect, which means boost would taper and therefore may not misfire. Since I'm assuming your boost control through the UTEC, this doesn't apply if you are using a different boost control method.

If your using OLF, check to see what your OLF MAF Max is set for.. This is the maximum value the ECU gets..

Also.. You haven't said if this issue was happening at only WOT, or only Part Throttle.. Or both.. (Revving in neutral isn't going to tell us alot)

However, to be safe, at some point after your testing, you might want to save your maps and configuration settings, and reflash the UTEC.

5000rpm is a magic number for this particular thing your describing.. Its the RPM where the stock coils seem to sometimes have issues firing, its the RPM where some engines generate racket that is interpretted as knock, its the RPM where plugs tend to misfire if their gapped to large, if their cold plugs on a really cold day, or if their worn plugs. (especially if there are some grounding issues)

Also you didn't specify if your using open loop fueling in the UTEC (I have to assume you are) but if your not, your still susceptable to fuel cut.

Once your certain its absolutely nothing easy to find, then you should save your maps and params for the UTEC, reflash it, make sure everything is hooked up ok.. VERIFY the map switch is not in position 7 8 or 9 on either the UTEC or remote map switch.. Once you've gotten that far, you should contact turboXS about the possibility of a problem..

In all honesty, you should be discussing this on the phone with them right now anyway.. JUST IN CASE they've seen any common issues.

koolade9

iTrader: (3)

I have a buddy with a utec in his heavily modded wrx, and he's got a similar problem, but his totally falls off around 5k-5.5k, and doesn't come back. it may be totally unrelated...but I had to mention it.

malibu, have you seen this type of thing before?

TampaTurbo

iTrader: (7)

Ok my buddy,
This is what I have now.
OLF is enabled. The 5k studder happens at part throttle or at WOT. At WOT, it goes through what feels like a hiccup. At part throttle taking it up to 5k and holding it causes the car to shake. I dont know what my OLF max is set for but I will check.

I talked to Jermaine and I am going to take a couple logs to duplicate whats happening and send them out. I pray its something simple.

MalibuJack

iTrader: (5)

Cool, that works best.. I am unsure what its doing at this point it could be some very simple fix.

TampaTurbo

iTrader: (7)

CFT tried to tune out the 5k studder and could not. The most the car would make on an AWD mustang dyno was 305WHP. He could have made more but anytime the AFR were to be leaned out higher than 10.6 it would knock. Crazy. I am thinking I need to replace my front O2 sensor for the p0171 code and the knock sensor for possible over sensitivity. ????? The 5k studder is something we are all cluesless about. The AFR at WOT is like 10.6. Should the UTEC be reflashed. What are some solutions or causes for this? Again, only when I am running a map. I even put in fresh NGKbpr7es at the tune. Thanks.

OLF enabled. Scaled to 550/740. Can the knock thresholds be set on the UTEC and is that a possible cause for the 5k studder? I am not real familiar with the product so I am hoping for some real solutions.

MalibuJack

iTrader: (5)

If its registering knock in that RPM range, it certainly is possible since it would pull timing..

Instead of playing with the fuel, did you try removing timing to reduce the knock? If that had no effect then its likely some sort of resonance from the transmission or valvetrain.

Are they verifying that its knock using cans?

The knock threshold can be adjusted to be more or less sensitive in the low, mid, and high rpm Ranges.. I have mine configured to be more sensitive and I don't get much "Racket"

Its certainly possible to have a defective O2 sensor, but the O2 sensor is only used to control closed loop fueling, if you find you cannot make adequate adjustment for it, you may have to play with the STOCK INJECTOR SIZE parameter in OLF.. If you change ANYTHING remember to RETUNE THE CAR..

Do you find your fuel trims are wacky with the 550/740 setting? (did you already have a reflash?)

Its possible to replace the O2 sensor, but the knock sensor is basically a piezo microphone, It either will work, or it won't, its discrimination is at the control of the ECU or UTEC..

In my experience that studder at 5k was due to my ignition system not able to provide a good enough spark..

Have you tried LOWERING YOUR BOOST in the map? Telling me that it doesnt happen in stock mode, without testing lowering the boost in a tuned map isn't going to tell us alot.

Al has pointed out a few times that around 5k seems to be a "Resonance or Harmonic" area that alot of engines seem to produce noise that may be seen as detonation, or it may really be detonation and timing would need to be removed so there is less advance in that range..

My experience even with my NGK colder plugs (BPR7ES) plugs, that gapping them at greater than .030 seemed to result in misfiring or spark quench when I gapped at .025 or .026 I noticed it went away.

Also, check your coil packs.. if you have access to borrowing someone elses packs and wires, swap them on and test again.. you may have defective coils..

I doubt the UTEC is defective, though anything is possible, but more often than not, its just something overlooked, even check for boost leaks.

Check your fuel pressure too.. Though your not seeing the car run lean in any sense of the word, its worth checking.

Also, you can get a misfire if the car is running rich too, combine a rich mixture with alot of timing advance and a weak spark and it can result in it..

What are your EGT's when running these tests?

MalibuJack

iTrader: (5)

Oh and you can try saving your params and maps, and reflashing the UTEC just to be 100% certain its not the problem.. But it really doesn't sound like the UTEC itself.. Do you have logs of this happening you can send me?

dopeman_420

put your stock plugs back in if there still good or go mitsu dealer and get a new set.i had a similar issue when i went to brainstorm performance to do a power run on there dyno. a day before i went i switced to the brp7es plugs.so we ran my car but probs arose it didnt even dawn on me the ngk were the issue until i told them i was running a colder plug.the tech said those are good plugs he ran them in his dsm but the evo runs high boost[as we all know] and those plugs cant hang with that much boost.so he asked me were the original plugs were i said i threw them away he said[mistake] as i only had 2000 miles on them and had to have one of there staff go get me a new set at 100 and some change from mitsu dealer and that cured my problem.