ArchieBabes

iTrader: (44)

Is the UTEC making the wrong decisions? Providing knock count eventhough I don't feel any loss on power or engine stumbling or misfires?

I don't get it when I was using the NGK BPRES7ES plugs it would knock car stumbles and it misfires when it reaches 24psi, now I'm using stock Iridium plugs and it will detect knock but it won't stuble or misfire on higer boost at 24psi?

Can somebody please explain?

Thanks

MalibuJack

iTrader: (5)

You have to understand the stock ignition system wasnt designed for that much boost, it will misfire if you have stock gap.. Fresh plugs will fire better until they wear.

The UTEC *IS* pulling timing, but the timing its pulling puts it back into the previous load sites timing cell value, so it doesnt feel like anything is happening..

You are going to have to look at your maps and see if there are any large jumps in timing or fueling.. Also, without a wideband, its not a good idea to even play with that level of boost.. Knock retard is NOT A SAFETY Feature.. you should be tuning so you don't get it. I don't know what your maps are, I don't know your UTEC configuration and I don't recall the car's mods.. But the timing I see indicated is pretty conservative for a water/alcohol injection setup, but at 25psi of boost, its a bit lower than I'm running, but I can run 93 octane and water injection...

IF you see a knock count, and it meets the knock threshold (the count where it indicates and pulls timing) then its doing its job.. you'll have to look at your knock detection settings... But if their stock, it will be around the same sensitivity as stock.

ArchieBabes

iTrader: (44)

You mean the Ign#1 deg is the timing the UTEC uses or the map that has been loaded in the UTEC?

What's with the plus on the timing like +14 deg on 4krpm but when it detects knock it brings it down to +3?

So that means I have +3 deg before the ECU start to pull timing? It also have a 7 Knock count, and I remember that the UTEC settings is at 10 Knock count threshold.

So that means when it reaches 10 knock count the ECU will take over and pull timing then the car stubles and loses power?

So I can assume that if the knock count is less than 10 then its ok to ignore the knock count the UTEC is providing?

I have my Alcohol Injection set to spray at 1psi of Boost and Max spray at 24psi of boost, is that a good setting for it?

What does the Load Site represent?

Widebandphillip

iTrader: (1)

Dude, you gotta read the utec manual a few times over. Some of the questions are covered. I don't think utecs come from the factory with a 10 knock count threshold. I believe it's just one knock count before it takes action. It's never a good thing to ignore knock counts. The +14 means 14 degrees BEFORE TDC and when it detects knock, the utec pulls timing back so that's why you see +3 after the knock count.

MalibuJack

iTrader: (5)

Thanks, I acually answered exactly the same way..

Remember, any knock count you see, is actually a count based on a noise threshold.. so if its registering on the UTEC, it means it is higher than the threshold that is configured..

Here's the thing oyu have to be aware of.. knock has to occur for it to detect it.. If its severe, it can do damage in a few rotations of the crank (in severe cases, even once is enough to do damage) any knock control feature relies on hearing the onset of something more severe, and then retarding timing by a set amount per crank rotation.. THIS ASSUMES that there's an onset of noise, if you do something for example (THIS IS INSANE DON'T TRY IT) jump +5 to +25 degrees at peak boost, There will be no warning for the ECU or UTEC, which means the first detonation event could be severe enough to do damage, the UTEC will never have the opportunity to retard enough timing in enough crank rotations to prevent damage..

This is where issues like large timing jumps and of course, fuel starvation (fuel pump failure or whatnot) can cause engine damage before you have the opportunity to shut down..

There's alot of information on the net about this..

The safest way to tune, is using conservative steps, and taking great pains (sometimes at the sacrifice of ultimate power) to make sure your map is smooth between cells.. The simple reason is at higher loads, where boost builds faster, you will "Skip sites" as airflow ramps up so quickly.. so large changes in timing will result in giant JUMPS under higher load (higher gears)

Just an FYI

Imprezd

The UTEC’s knock thresholds are more sensitive than a knock link or anything that is related to the same basis of those tools. What you should know is that in testing and tuning many of these vehicles we have seen multiple vehicles with an AFC style fuel computer knock itself to death and still make power. This is the closely related to the same reason why people say a car runs it’s best right before it blows up. Advancing timing to the point of detonation makes ridiculous cylinder pressure regardless of the good or evil of it. I mean when it comes down to it, making power is all about the cylinder pressure i.e. Ignition timing, leaner afr, boost. With reflashed and AFC styled fuel computers we have seen cars run so pissed off ignition timing we would see negative ignition timing. With the UTEC knock thresholds applied in these circumstances we would get an according count of knock and an appropriate reaction to the knock. What I have noticed is that with the UTEC reacting to knock some may feel it’s too aggressive; this leads to them turning the knock thresholds down because they are use to tuning earlier 4g63 motors which back in the day seeing a small knock count was ok, even considered to be normal. Personally I am not happy with a 1 count and if it means the car is going to make less power because of it, SO BE IT.

Jermaine~
www.turboxs.com
301-977-4727