Hatorade

iTrader: (1)

Just wondering about this piece. I know you only use it if you're going to boost over a certain point. I was wondering if it would benefit me power-wise to install it or not with my setup, as I'm getting tuned tomorrow.

Buschur TBE
Stock Turbo
Fuel Pump
UTEC
272/272 HKS Cams
Adjustible Gears

HoLeeRay

iTrader: (4)

depending on where you get tuned, they might jsut tell you to get an MBC or EBC... a lot of shops i've talked to have told me they don't like tuning boost with the UTEC.

Hatorade

iTrader: (1)

I'm uninterested in a tuner who can't manage boost with a UTEC. Not to say that a person who doesn't like it is incompetent or anything. I'm sure there are people who don't like it who can make big numbers. I just won't pay them to tune my car.

So assuming the tuner /is/ able to and willing, what then?

HoLeeRay

iTrader: (4)

put it in. it's a ***** to get the UTEC to hold 20+ psi without the bleed valve... as far as my experience goes. i tried at first because i didn't want to tap into the boost line going to my BCS, but then i said **** it and slapped it on and instantly my boost was easily manageable.

btw, turbotrix and pruven (aka dynoflash) were two of the tuners that i talked to who recommended an external boost control device.

RallySport Direct

iTrader: (48)

With the ABC in you should not have a problem running 20+ PSI. The ABC works just like a mbc. It bleeds off pressure making the wastgate stay closed longer. With the ABC it will effect your boost settings so do not mess with it to much on a tuned map.

The problem with boost control is not in the UTEC it is more in the stock BCS.

Ben

Hatorade

iTrader: (1)

Thanks guys. I'll cut into that line tonight.

MalibuJack

iTrader: (5)

If the ABC can't do the boost levels your looking for, you have other options.. But you shouldn't have to use an external boost control device like an MBC to get what you want. I agree with you about not wanting to do that, or deal with tuners who can't or won't work with the pretty good boost control features of the UTEC.

Hatorade

iTrader: (1)

Ugh. Ok, so I took my car in today, and everything seemed fine. The dynojet said it was making about 260whp, so on and so forth. Great, till I get the car on the road. The boost is being bled off ridiculously fast at WOT, till I'm well below 1 bar. Obviously, something isn't right. The guys at the shop told me it might be the BOV. And it certainly sounds the same as when I replaced it last time, but the boost loss is much more dramatic. I'm hitting about 1.5 and then the boost craps out.

I had them install the ABC, and leave the pill in. Could this be the cause of my problem? The install itself? Higher boost levels requiring a different setting in the BOV? I have a TurboXS H34, with the packer washers for adjustment. The ABC was the last thing that went on the car and before, I was holding 1.3 without a problem, though my car was apparently in limp mode without me knowing. I wasn't getting a CEL or anything.

I am left asking wtf. Any help appreciated!

HoLeeRay

iTrader: (4)

Umm... have you tried another BOV? Honestly, I've heard nothing but stories about leaks and poorly working TXS BOVs.

Hatorade

iTrader: (1)

I wish I could use the stocker for a reliable test, but I replaced that coz it was leaking. I don't want to have to buy yet another BOV and then find out that wasn't even the problem.

Edit for peace of mind: I actually did just test the stocker to see if there was any difference. There was no change at all. Same boost to 1.5, and immediate drop way below 1.

Mr. Stock

iTrader: (3)

Did you ever figure out what the issue was?

MalibuJack

iTrader: (5)

Well, truthfully, a DV won't leak as long as the combined spring pressure and diaphragm pressure is greater than the pressure within the upper intercooler pipe..

Therefore look at your vacuum line to the DV.. what do you have T'ed into it.. Are their T fittings, are they too small, does the line look kinked? run a brand new line if you have to.. basically at 20psi of boost, your putting 15psi of pressure on the diaphragm, so the internal spring should be around 8-10psi.. the combined pressure would be more than adequate to keep it closed.

Anyone having trouble with a DV leaking is usually because the boost in the upper intercooler pipe is building faster than the reference signal to the DV, this results in slow boost building and leaking at part throttle, if the reference signal and spring pressure combined are less than the peak boost, then the DV will leak, the exception being the stock DV because its plastic and tends to bulge a bit under high pressure resulting in a leak.. (Mine split at the glue seam!)