The switch is already there from the factory. It just matters whether it is switching ground, +5v, +12V, etc, but no additional wiring or switches are necessary.

 

I know there is a safety switch on the clutch pedal arm...it is activated when the clutch is fully depressed, i.e. you have to have your leg fully extended, mashing the clutch in before it is closed. This is the same switch that does not allow you to start the vehicle with out the pedal being fully depressed.

I was suggesting a second switch that is activated when you first start to move the clutch pedal...This would initiate the NLTS RPM when you first start to release the clutch as opposed to have the thing completely disengaged. This would also hold the NLTS RPM until the clutch is let back out. It could be adjusted to have this happen anywhere in the arc of travel for the clutch pedal arm.

Think of it like a brake light switch...activates high in the pedal travel instead of at the end of pedal travel.

I will go back under my rock now...

 

There is an upper switch as well.

 

Ahhhh...I am better off under my rock

 

i have the xede right now and i am seriously considering converting to the ECU+, but do i need to get a new flash if i already have one for the xede? it obviously is compensating for my bigger injectors along with a raised redline, but does it do anything that is xede specific where i would need a generic flash instead of the xede flash?

 

I can't say for sure, but I suspect the XEDE reflash would work fine.

Tom

 

thanks for the response tom, does the innovate LC-1 work with the ECU+?

 

SEEYA.....speaking of the LC-1.....I had that for awhile when I was using the SMART system and I wasn't very happy with its stability. I downloaded and used the innovate software to monitor AFR during tuning sessions and once out of every ten runs the darn thing would lose its calibration. A month or so later many others started complaining about the same thing. You may want to monitor the WB a little more closely than you have been. It should work fine for tuning but if you are relying on the WB with the SMART system actively making adjustments to you AFR .... bad things could happen.

 

interesting info, i don't have the SMART system, just the xede...that is why i am thinking of upgrading now before i chunk anymore money into this piggyback system that seems so limited compared to what the ecu+ is capable of...i was using a LM-1 and never had any problems out of it...i might just pick up one of those again

 

Well....The SMART is reactive not proactive like they say it is.....I won't go into great detail but I wouldn't waste the money on SMART.

You'll have better control if you get a WB and pocketlogger......or switch to something that sees overall timing (ECU+).

 

i am realizing that now about the smart...the only question i have now is, do i have to get a new flash, or will the xede flash work using the ecu+?

 

Didn't Tom just answer that in post 36?

--Dan
Mach V
MachEVO.com

 

yes, BUT he said he is not SURE, i am looking for someone that knows for a fact that it will work...

 

Right now I don't have the calibration in for it, so what you have to do is to use Innovate's software to re-calibrate the LC-1 so its output looks like the LM-1. I'll be adding the LC-1 into the next software release for sure, since I just wrote down "LC-1" on the little slip of paper next to my computer. The little slip of paper is my state of the art bug/feature tracking system!

Tom

 

awesome, with the ecu+, are you datalogging A/F from the WB with the ecu+ software, or the innovate software?