LDOGGYDIZZLE

iTrader: (1)

Couple questions.


What exactly does the correction factor do?

What exactly does the offset do?

The manual does explain how to adjust each but does nopt say what its for or what it does.

The manual says to T in to fuel psi regulator, I didnt have enough hose, so I T'd off the diverter valve right by the intake. I figured this is the same, any objections?

Also, where are the tps and rpm wires on the computer harness?

Where is the computer?

LDOGGYDIZZLE

iTrader: (1)

ttt.......

Anyone, anyone? Bueller, Bueller......

Sharif@Forged

iTrader: (1)

The correction factor is used, if you are not hitting your "base boost" level. We've used the new EVC extensively, and its the best one so far. Are you having any issues with boost stability, or boost spikes?

LDOGGYDIZZLE

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for responding.

Yes I am having spike issues etc. I figured the correction factor was just that, but having issues on how to set it. I dont like the fact you have to reset the evc to just get back to correction factor menu(then you have to reset acctuator to 14.7 etc.).

Can you maybe give me a run down exactly what you set each initial menu to? Ive set it to psi, s, 14.7, 22, skip scramble, correction has been in the 140-150% range. Offset to 104-106. Suggestions?

What about offset?

Do you use the standard boost control or rpm vs boost etc?

Thank you very much for the help.

Sharif@Forged

iTrader: (1)

IMHO, the only way to properly dial in a boost controller is on a good dyno, that has boost pressure data aquisition. This is the only way I would consider doing it. If anything, just for safety's sake. On the units we have installed, I havent had to deviate from the standard settings.

let me ask you, what is your known "stable boost" on this particular vehicle....without a boost controller on the car. If its 14.5psi, I would enter about 15.5psi as your base boost pressure.

LDOGGYDIZZLE

iTrader: (1)

Well, as for stable boost when setting the boost controller during the initial set-up, the car builds 14.7psi to redline. I believe this is to tell the EVC what actuator it is working with. Then the next step is to enter target boost. But this target boost is during the initial setup, not where you set it as boost setting A or B, its permenant unless you do the reset process all over again. So what is this target boost? What should I set it to and please explain why.

Also could you explain what the correction factor is supposed to do and what offset is supposed to do. If I understood these things I think I could figure it out... Even if on the dyno, I still want to understand what I am doing.

One more question, do you use the controller in its basic boost control function or do you use the rpm vs boost etc function?

Thank you!!!

06ravenmr

iTrader: (12)

im also verry interested in this too as im having spike issues and keeping a stable boost. my initial boost with no boost conroller is only 11.3. i have an 06 evo 9 with full turboback. iv heard its not a good idea to hook up the speed and throttle wires to the ecu. is this true or will i get a more stable boost using the speed and idle sensers

lapulapu

iTrader: (4)

Sharif - from a fellow my350z member to another, welcome to evom. =)

LDOGGYDIZZLE

iTrader: (1)

Theres no way your evo should only be getting 11.3lbs. In the initial setup, when it asks you to enter stable boost, you can set it automatically by flooring your car to redline. You will notice it will stablize at 1atm/14.7psi if you have the stock actuator.

That, Im sure about.

I just want to know what correction factor and offset do exactly so I have a complete understanding of what the EVC can do.

06ravenmr

iTrader: (12)

i did t hat and its only holding 11.3. on the initial setup it says to enter stock boost and when i floor it in 3rd it hits 11.3. how do u have the hoses connected

LDOGGYDIZZLE

iTrader: (1)

It should get to 14.7 in the upper rpms. Take it on the highway and floor it all the way to 7500rpm. You should see it get up to 14.7 in upper rpms.

The hoses are ran as the HKS manual shows. From solenoid to actuator and solinoid to turbo. If you eliminated your solinoid and hooked up the turbo straight to turbo, you would only get 14.7lbs.

Sharif@Forged

iTrader: (1)

shh...you are blowing my cover...LOL.

Just kidding...thanks for the kind words.

In regards to the OP's question, I have not needed to use the RPM or speed offset functions yet, so I can't tell you how well they work. I just run it normally...no TPS, speed, or RPM offsets at all.

I should post some dyno charts with this thing.....its the steadiest boost we have ever recorded on the dyno. If you boost is tapering, its unlikely that any boost controller will help you very much.

LDOGGYDIZZLE

iTrader: (1)

Sharif,

Please just tell us what your settings are in the "initial" set-up. Give me a run down of exactly what you enter.

Please!!!!!

Sharif@Forged

iTrader: (1)

I dont have one front of me at the moment, so I will try this by heart.

First screen, you set the unit of measure....we use PSI most of the time
Second screen, you set the actuator style....P for poppet (external gate), and S from swing type (internal gate)
Next screen is where you set your known stable boost level...turn the knob to the correct value....for instance 14.5psi
Next screen is your target boost: Make sure this is higher than you base boost....so lets say 16psi.
The rest of the screens are just default...no changes.

Now when you are done, check your boost level at WOT in 4th gear of possible....hopefully on the dyno. Then you can make adjustments to your boost pressure just by pushing in the main knob, and turning it up or down.

As I mentioned before, if you are running a smallish turbocharger, or have backpressure related issues a boost controller will help you with taper.

If you want to call the shop, I can walk you through it, and grab the instructioin manual. 770-792-0202


Hope that helps.

LDOGGYDIZZLE

iTrader: (1)

You da man! thank you!

I guess what confuses me is the words "base boost" within the target boost menu. So no matter what psi Im planning on running after the initial set-up (22psi) I should still set it to 16psi?

Ok, now on setting it during pulls. Do I just disregard what psi im setting it to and only pay attention to what the engine is actually seeing? Or if I enter 20psi it should it do 20psi? (Im assuming so, but thats where I had a problem before so I started playing with correction factor and offset).

One more... You leave offset at 100, correct?

Id call, but I think others would have these questions too.

Thank you!!!!!!