the1andonlyE

iTrader: (5)

I have replaced my Ecu and I took my car to Mitsubishi to have the immobilization code removed and when they hooked the machine up to my car it would not read it at all as if there was no Ecu hooked up. They told me that I had to buy another Ecu I told them I just bought that one straight from Mitsubishi. Then the service manager changed his story and said that he will have to order this special tool to get rid of the code which will not be here until May 3 and it would be $200 plus 150 in labor. Is there anyone that has taken their car to Mitsubishi to have their code removed and if so will you please give me some feedback on what they done and how long it took and can you tell me how much they charged you. My car has been parked because of this for several months now because of them. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Vigman

You can try this:

Many owners seem to have misconceptions about just what a Transponder Key is, and how it works, so I'll start there.

Inside the key head is a simple microchip, with an embedded serial number or code. This serial number is "hardcoded" to the chip, and cannot be changed. (This is the same technology used when embedding ID chips under your pets skin.)

With the key in the ignition, the ECU can "ask" the key its electronic serial number (hence the term transponder), which it will then verify is a valid key in its lookup table.
Regardless of a proper cut, and the ability to turn on the ignition, if you use a key not found in the ECU validation table, it will shut down the car under the assumption it is being stolen.

The ECU is capable of adding up to 8 keys to its table, but to add more, the ECU requires you to “prove” you are the true owner, by utilizing two known valid keys before it will place itself into "learning mode".

FOR THIS REASON ALONE, ALL OWNERS SHOULD HAVE A MINIMUM OF 3 KEYS PREPROGRAMMED. (If you loose one key, you can still buy and reprogram a third on your own)
Once in learning mode you simply insert the new key, the ECU will query it for the serial number and add it to its table for future reference.

The owners manual describes the procedure as follows (for the Chrysler 02 R/T).

YOU MUST HAVE TWO VALID KEYS TO START!
YOUR NEW KEY MUST BE CUT!

1.) Insert 1st valid key and turn to the “On” position for 5 seconds
2.) Turn the ignition “off” and remove 1st key.
3.) Insert the second valid key, and switch the ignition to the “on” position within 7 seconds. (Note: Theft alarm indicator will blink twice, indicating it is in the learn mode)
4.) Insert the new key and switch on within 7 seconds.
NOTE: The theft alarm indicator will light for about 3 seconds when the serial number registration is complete.

Not having TWO valid keys, commits you to visiting your dealership. They can place the ECU in learn mode via their diagnostics system, and load two keys to the ECU validation table, regaining you the ability to load more on your own.

I do not doubt that you must purchase a blank key for your specific year. It would be a simple matter for Mitsu engineers to change prefix or suffix requirements within the ECU tables each year.

Never tried but hope this will on Mitsu!

TylerO@WORKS

iTrader: (1)

We use the MUT II tool to synchronize keys with the ECU. With that you can synch more than 3 keys to an ECU... its a great tool, a factory only tool we got from a closing down dealership

mikespike2

iTrader: (2)

Ahh I only got 1 key with my IX from the dealer (used). I called and they want $95 to add the key. This seems expensive for plugging the MUT tool in and just punching in the key, it's not like they have to do any real "labor"..

goosey2099

iTrader: (21)

Lucky!! M***** F*****!!!!!!!!!!!!

mikespike2

iTrader: (2)

Is your tool available for hire?? Lucky!