MalibuJack

iTrader: (5)

It helped quite a bit actually.. And I was actually able to go back to Avatar's more aggressive settings.. However I am now hitting fuel cut (or pulled timing) even without a boost controller and S-AFC which leads me to believe that the really good cool air is having an effect.. Considering how rich the car runs stock, I suspect its fuel cut (as I've posted earlier) so I am holding off on anything else for a while.. I'm just gonna buy a bunch of mods and install them and tune them after my car's warranty is up (Another 3-6 months at the rate I'm driving)
All I have is a buschur exhaust and buschur cone air filter with the stealth airbox mod.. These mods alone caused the boost with the stock boost controller to spike at 21psi and drop to about 17-18 (depending on the load and conditions it can be low as 15-16) I know for a fact that Al's Dynoflash could seriously get back what I lost by removing the S-AFC and Boost Controller.. But before I flash my car (or replace the ECU) I want to get the rest of Buschur's upgrade path.. I don't want to spend money twice if I go with a dyno-tuned flash..

SAEVO

iTrader: (1)

I just finished doing most of my install last night, I still need to do the boost controller and guage. But the rest of the stage 1 and 2 is in. whats the stealth box that you are talking about?

MalibuJack

iTrader: (5)

If your running the Buschur stage 2 (Mini battery, i/c pipe, and maf pipe) the stealth mod doesnt work.. Its basically a stock air box with the bottom cut out to fit the cone filter, it gets fresh air from the stock box top over the filter.. check out the mods/how-to's section if your curious..

porcupine

Speaking of wideband o2 sensor to tune the SAFC, would the PIVOT Multiple Data Logger PIVADL unit be enough to give accurate reading of the A/F ratios. It does come with a race spec 4 wire 02 sensor.

Anybody have this unit fitted to their evos ? it's quite pricey though. Bummer.

Angel Of Mercy

Porcupine.. have u tried any of the settings here yet? We dyno this afternoon?

aHyIN

dyno

MalibuJack

iTrader: (5)

I wouldn't just plug in settings.. However I'm pretty sure that its a high performance narrow band (1v) o2 sensor.. What it means its resolution isn't as good, but its refresh may be faster than stock.. Don't know enough about it to tell you for sure unless you give me a link to the product..

dperfect21

Anyone got settings for places with extremely high altitude. Im drivin at 6000 above sea level and can get only 91 octane. I currently have stage one and two from buschur and am also running their settings. just wondering if anyone else has gotten anything better

WR03Evo

If anyone could post their settings to lean it out a little for a stock car running 93/94 that would be great

GTVEVO

iTrader: (22)

If you are stock running 93 oct you could lean it out and be pretty safe running up to about -6% takeaway starting at 4500 at -2% 5000 at -4% 5500 - 7500 at -6%. These settings would be pretty safe on a stock car running that fuel. You could tune it out more if you had a AF ratio guage doing 3rd and 4th gear pulls out on the street. When I was stock I could run -10% or -12% on the highside rpms and still be around 10.5 afr at wot. There are several posts on this but I used the AF ratio guage as well because every car is a little different.

MalibuJack

iTrader: (5)

Yep.. truth is depending on circumstances, due to the nature of how the boost drops off, you could remove even more fuel than 12% though I'd never recommend it without adequate tuning since you'd be approaching a level where you could slip into a lean condition.

At 19psi of boost, I've run as much as -12% on my car (which runs extremely rich at that RPM before correction)

an interesting side note is when you lean out the mixture, you've also effectively raised your fuel cut levels slightly so your engine may rev a bit higher than you expect and without a shift light, the RPM's sweep FAST, so be cautious..

MalibuJack

iTrader: (5)

I did find that under load pulls, the car does run a little lean at 2700rpm when I get into full boost (aftermarket exhaust spikes my boost at 21psi and settles at 20.5, with the stock SBC it drops off to 17psi) so it ends up a little earlier in the stock ECU's fuel map, which triggers boost cut on my car when doing a "Passing maneuver" if I'm in open loop mode, but not wide open throttle. I personally found I had to add a bit of fuel at those lower RPM's it helped the boost cut, but then I ended up with fuel cut.. Half of my problem is my Cone air filter causing the MAF sensor to misread on occasion too.. I think its partly due to vibration though since it doesnt happen as much since I anchored it better.

What a slippery slope eh?

Zensai

Hmm i was told by my mechanic, to just reset my SAFC to factory, and then the SES light comes on, and drive it for 2.5 hrs and the SES light will blink 3 times and go away. and then the SAFC will be programmed based on how i drive my car with its mods. is he full of ****?

MalibuJack

iTrader: (5)

The S-AFC will not learn anything.. After the ECU is reset it will take some time for the FACTORY ECU to re-learn its comfort zone (Fuel trims) HOWEVER this really only effects closed loop operation, and the S-AFC is intended mostly for open loop operation (over 30% Throttle)

The CEL (SES light) comes on because there is something not right, did he tell you WHAT the code was?

Generally, our cars are tolerant of modifications, however there are a few things that will trigger a check engine light, which happen fairly frequently, 1) Check the gas cap.. make sure its tight, sometimes filling up the car while its running, or the cap not on tight will turn on the light, and it will go off after awhile in that case after its tightened. 2) Random Misfire (never happened to me, but it does happen occasionally) 3) Removing the catalytic converter and not using the secondary O2 sensor, OR leaving the sensor in without using some sort of O2 eliminator (Either a shrouded fitting for the sensor, or a simulator)

The S-AFC does not program itself IN ANY WAY and must be tuned by the user. (If you are unfamiliar with how to do it, or not comfortable, its best you have someone else do it, or leave it at Zero for the time being)

Zensai

No i don't have the code. I was just told it takes 3 hrs for it to go away once you disconnect the batter to reset the SAFC.

But i noticed this weekend while driving trying to put the 3hrs on it, that the SAFC like reboots itself, is this normal or should i be looking for something loose?