Originally Posted by davidbuschur

Wow, that is dissapointing. That is the biggest input I have.

I guess looking at the list of parts that you have and then the title of your post I am even more dissapointed. I know Tym took quite a bit of time on the phone with you to try and help. The "BR 580 turbo problems" is what is disturbing.

I think (NO INSULT INTENDED) that you definetely win the award for the most mixed part combination on an EVO. WOW is that a list of parts from everywhere!

Getting it to all work correctly together is going to be a chore and a half. I have seen very few cars work well with so many different parts on them.

I don't know that the problem is with the BR580. I am in the process of getting some AWD Dynojet dyno sheets from one of our customers, Mike. He has our Stage 4 kit plus the turbo kit and the EMS. Another shop did a race gas tune and a pump gas tune on the car for him. You will be able to see once I get these posted what it should look/work like. His car, our car and Matt's car were all done here Stages 1-4 with the EMS and with a 580 kit on them. All three of these cars can make 20 psi of boost from a roll on the road by 3800 rpm.

I am seeing more and more kits going out of here with mixed up combinations or incomplete modification lists and the results just flat out suck. I can't put the blame on the turbos as getting something to work is all about combination.

Take a look at how well the stock turbo works on these cars. We ran 11.65 @117.88 mph with the stock turbo and Stages 1-4 with the EMS. That is just a combination that is hard to beat. We did the entire upgrade path on the EVO's like we have done all the rest of our cars, in a certain order for a reason. You build on each thing and make it better.

The BR580 turbo will hold 30 psi of steady boost to 8500 rpm, that is what we are doing in our car. The 4 psi drop it sounds like you found the cause of it. I am unfamilar with that boost control, ours is very simple and only has one adjustment on it. Has worked well enough for us to run 7.81 at 175 mph on. I see the car is tuned on pump gas with no knock count. The boost I am assuming must be in the under 20 psi range. That would mean 16 psi or so when it dropped off. Dyno Dynamics reads low compared to Dynojet right? Just asking questions.

I am really sorry to hear what the car is doing, I just don't think the turbo kit is the culprit.

David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com

Originally Posted by MalibuJack

Nah, I definitely don't think your turbo kit is the culprit.. I suspect there's some issue with the boost controller or even the intercooler.. I always tell people that you need to address the restrictions in the system, and your parts do that very well therefore when you use all of your staged parts, they work as expected. Heck, I can run 23psi of boost tapering to 21 on your parts on a stock turbo and have produced nearly 320 whp on a stock MAF without cams, pump or injectors at the moment..

Dave is right though, mixing parts from different vendors means you need to REALLY understand the capabilities and limits of each of these parts, otherwise its hard to know where your problems will turn up. His approach to tuning is nearly identical to mine, its the KISS (Keep It Simple Silly) Method, in fact, I think the only difference of opinion we have on it is that I prefer to retain the OE computer (Us NY stage guys get shafted on inspections)

Now, with all of that said, you CAN put together a good combination of differing parts, but unfortunately you end up being the guinea pig..

SO, with all of this said, you need to find what is causing your restriction and unfortunately it may require going through the entire intake and exhaust tract, part by part and find whats not a happy camper. Of course because there are so many different parts, there could be several optimizations.

BTW, what are you using for an upper intercooler pipe? It should be at least 2.5" diameter tubing and as straight a shot as possible..

Originally Posted by ez76

jerastan I noticed you have high duration high lift JUN cams. Let's start with the cam gears - what settings are they at?

Originally Posted by MalibuJack

0 and +2? Was that done to improve Idle?

Originally Posted by MalibuJack

Hmm.. I wonder if that could be contributing to the late spool.. can you easily set it to 0/0? it would effect idle, but should lower the RPM range where you begin to build power (and exhaust pressure to build boost) I might have tried -1/+1 or -2/0 assuming you have the valve/head clearance.. Unless that is what JUN recommended.. as soon as you deal with high lift cams playing with gear timing gets risky..

Originally Posted by MalibuJack

Did you remove the EGR system? did you use a blockoff plate on it?

Originally Posted by MalibuJack

Hmm.. is it a whooshing sound, or an obnoxious hissing sound? If its a loud hissing I would check the lower intercooler piping, and the intercooler.. Like I said earlier, its possible the intercooler isn't designed to move the volume of air that this compressor is capable of.

Originally Posted by MalibuJack

Another really dumb thought.. are all the bungs on the intake manifold plugged, is it seating properly? If your using the stock throttle body, is the adapter and everything on it sealing good? Is the IAC motor on tight, and not leaking? Just some more things to check out.