First OPEN LOOP Fuel map..
#16
Closed loop boost control uses feedback from the MAF sensor to allow the boost to remain consistent to what you set it.. Open loop boost control you set the duty cycle, but boost can very based on weather..
I can tell you from personal experience that the stock solenoid in open loop can vary anywhere from 17psi to 23psi based on the weather and humidity..
I can tell you from personal experience that the stock solenoid in open loop can vary anywhere from 17psi to 23psi based on the weather and humidity..
#17
I just got UTEC for evo and switch.
I read all manual and I can figure to install but is there anything be careful? or hard to install?
and switch... where can it mounted?
and also I have software ver. 1.3 where can I get 1.4b ?
Please let me know.
Thanks
I read all manual and I can figure to install but is there anything be careful? or hard to install?
and switch... where can it mounted?
and also I have software ver. 1.3 where can I get 1.4b ?
Please let me know.
Thanks
#18
1.4b is the beta, its not available yet (I'm a beta tester) The switch is REALLY easy, and you don't have to even use the wires for the clutch switch, the EVO UTEC Handles it already.
The switch has a long enough cable that you can mount it wherever you like. Everyone has a different preference, I mounted mine in the center console under the brake handle towards the front..
The switch has a long enough cable that you can mount it wherever you like. Everyone has a different preference, I mounted mine in the center console under the brake handle towards the front..
#20
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Originally Posted by dktop
I just got UTEC for evo and switch.
I read all manual and I can figure to install but is there anything be careful? or hard to install?
and switch... where can it mounted?
and also I have software ver. 1.3 where can I get 1.4b ?
Please let me know.
Thanks
I read all manual and I can figure to install but is there anything be careful? or hard to install?
and switch... where can it mounted?
and also I have software ver. 1.3 where can I get 1.4b ?
Please let me know.
Thanks
The install is pretty easy and straight foward. Couple things...
1. there's a plastic piece you need to remove right below the glove box that Txs does not mention (except at the very end on how to reinstall the plastic piece... which they never tell you to remove).
2. in the glove box, besides pushing the right side of the glove box past the rubber stop, you NEED to remove the inner left stop from inside the glove box. it looks like a little black shiny square on the left hand side, just "pull" it out and then follow turboXS' instructions to push on the glove box in order to expose the stock ECU.
3. you don't need to pull the retaining clip. (at least I didn't)
4. my utec didn't line up perfectly with the stock mounting holes. you guys at turbo XS should drill the holes bigger on the UTEC harness(hint hint).
5. your stock ECU will not rest snugly inside the UTEC harness. I took some electrical tape and wrapped it around the bottom of the ECU and the UTEC harness to keep it steady.
that's all i can think of. hope these tips help.
Last edited by e8; Sep 2, 2004 at 08:59 AM.
#21
You really shouldn't just plug in anyones map.. You CAN use the timing and boost portion of the map, but the fuel portion would be too rich, you would have to use your own fuel settings..
The purpose of this map was to illustrate that the fuel maps were different between open loop and the way things are done now.
IF you have a dyno tuned map, and you want to continue to use it with the new firmware, you just don't enable the Open loop fueling and you can continue to use your existing maps.
Does that make sense?
This particular map, as stated in several of the replies and in the post, is specific for my car, and therefore may not work well with anyone elses. YOu'll have to read through the entire post and really understand what it is that this map offers (A tuning guideline and reference information for the new firmware)
The purpose of this map was to illustrate that the fuel maps were different between open loop and the way things are done now.
IF you have a dyno tuned map, and you want to continue to use it with the new firmware, you just don't enable the Open loop fueling and you can continue to use your existing maps.
Does that make sense?
This particular map, as stated in several of the replies and in the post, is specific for my car, and therefore may not work well with anyone elses. YOu'll have to read through the entire post and really understand what it is that this map offers (A tuning guideline and reference information for the new firmware)
#24
Originally Posted by MalibuJack
You really shouldn't just plug in anyones map.. You CAN use the timing and boost portion of the map, but the fuel portion would be too rich, you would have to use your own fuel settings..
The purpose of this map was to illustrate that the fuel maps were different between open loop and the way things are done now.
IF you have a dyno tuned map, and you want to continue to use it with the new firmware, you just don't enable the Open loop fueling and you can continue to use your existing maps.
Does that make sense?
This particular map, as stated in several of the replies and in the post, is specific for my car, and therefore may not work well with anyone elses. YOu'll have to read through the entire post and really understand what it is that this map offers (A tuning guideline and reference information for the new firmware)
The purpose of this map was to illustrate that the fuel maps were different between open loop and the way things are done now.
IF you have a dyno tuned map, and you want to continue to use it with the new firmware, you just don't enable the Open loop fueling and you can continue to use your existing maps.
Does that make sense?
This particular map, as stated in several of the replies and in the post, is specific for my car, and therefore may not work well with anyone elses. YOu'll have to read through the entire post and really understand what it is that this map offers (A tuning guideline and reference information for the new firmware)
#25
Originally Posted by e8
The install is pretty easy and straight foward. Couple things...
1. there's a plastic piece you need to remove right below the glove box that Txs does not mention (except at the very end on how to reinstall the plastic piece... which they never tell you to remove).
2. in the glove box, besides pushing the right side of the glove box past the rubber stop, you NEED to remove the inner left stop from inside the glove box. it looks like a little black shiny square on the left hand side, just "pull" it out and then follow turboXS' instructions to push on the glove box in order to expose the stock ECU.
3. you don't need to pull the retaining clip. (at least I didn't)
4. my utec didn't line up perfectly with the stock mounting holes. you guys at turbo XS should drill the holes bigger on the UTEC harness(hint hint).
5. your stock ECU will not rest snugly inside the UTEC harness. I took some electrical tape and wrapped it around the bottom of the ECU and the UTEC harness to keep it steady.
that's all i can think of. hope these tips help.
1. there's a plastic piece you need to remove right below the glove box that Txs does not mention (except at the very end on how to reinstall the plastic piece... which they never tell you to remove).
2. in the glove box, besides pushing the right side of the glove box past the rubber stop, you NEED to remove the inner left stop from inside the glove box. it looks like a little black shiny square on the left hand side, just "pull" it out and then follow turboXS' instructions to push on the glove box in order to expose the stock ECU.
3. you don't need to pull the retaining clip. (at least I didn't)
4. my utec didn't line up perfectly with the stock mounting holes. you guys at turbo XS should drill the holes bigger on the UTEC harness(hint hint).
5. your stock ECU will not rest snugly inside the UTEC harness. I took some electrical tape and wrapped it around the bottom of the ECU and the UTEC harness to keep it steady.
that's all i can think of. hope these tips help.
#28
it looks the same as the units on the MAF Intercept.. It was done intentionally not to confuse people.. However there is a background map that is always there.. roughly like if you were to tune on top of a dynoflash, you'd likely have to add fuel in some areas as you improve performance to make it richer or whatnot..
I would like them to have an "Absolute Injector Duty" mode in addition so I can control the injectors completely, but even with the background map, you have 100% control over it.. they just make the work easier because with the entire map set to zero (Fuel map) it basically already has their stage2 map built in..
I would like them to have an "Absolute Injector Duty" mode in addition so I can control the injectors completely, but even with the background map, you have 100% control over it.. they just make the work easier because with the entire map set to zero (Fuel map) it basically already has their stage2 map built in..
#29
Oh, I see. I thought you were programming the injectors directly. But I guess it's really the same result in the end. That sounds like a good way to handle things.
So will we still have the option of offseting the MAF signal, or will this be the only way to control fuel in 1.4?
So will we still have the option of offseting the MAF signal, or will this be the only way to control fuel in 1.4?
#30
Nope.. the default setting in the new firmware is to offset the MAF signal.. so your old tuned maps will work..
If you want to take advantage of Injector Scaling, and of course, the ability to remove the fuel cut and rev limits, then you would enable open loop fuel control.
If you want to take advantage of Injector Scaling, and of course, the ability to remove the fuel cut and rev limits, then you would enable open loop fuel control.
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