LEVIII

iTrader: (11)

Just a run down on my situation.... I recently bought a used UTEC w/ remote map switch from a fellow EVO owner and seem to be having problems.

Could any1 tell me what the difference is between running wtihout the UTEC and running on map 0? Does the knock flash cel work while in map 0?

Since it was used, I cant figure out how or where to download the maps from that I should be running. I am in Cali where we have crap 91 octane.

Also sometimes while I am using the data logger it will freeze and I have to open a new session of hyper terminal. It wont let me exit or anything.

I have an obdII scanner and I keep getting a code for a weak MAF sensor signal.

I am not really trying to tune very much right now before I get a wideband and some more mods but I would like a little something out of my UTEC.

The remote map switch looks like it is made to be mounted somewhere but I cant figure out where?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

My mods are in my sig.

MalibuJack

iTrader: (5)

Well, first, if the serial connection is freezing, try a different computer and serial cable.. its important to establish that there's notihng actually wrong with the UTEC..

The UTEC in MAP0 is essentially a passthrough, it does nothing to the signals going to the ECU.. If the knock sensor picks up activity, the UTEC will flash the CEL light if the activity is enough to reach its threshold.. Obviously anything the utec isn't controlling is left up to the ECU, so its just monitoring..

You'll have to find a convenient location (be creative) for your map switch.. there's no "Stock location" for it to go into since the switch and plate were originally designed for an unused spot on the WRX..

In the future, do a search, all of these questions have actually been answered fairly recently and it should make your quest for info a little easier.

MalibuJack

iTrader: (5)

Oh, and the ECU code for the low MAF input may have to do with the EIDS (if its installed) Remove the UTEC and see if it goes away after you clear it.. if its still there check your wiring.. If its ok, put the UTEC back in and see if the CEL comes back.. Since your describing two unusual problems you might need to have your UTEC serviced, but you'll need to verify that its not your EIDS if its installed.

MalibuJack

iTrader: (5)

A few suggestions..

Download the current firmware v1.3 and reflash (and reset) the UTEC
Download the 1.3 Documentation for the UTEC and print it out
Download the utec newstg1 map, it has pretty conservative timing and should work ok with 91 octane gas, though you might have to adjust the fuel a little to not run quite as lean..

All of this should get you a nice fresh UTEC, it is possible the firmware became corrupt and reloading the firmware could help.. Follow the instructions that comes with it.

Be absolutely sure the freezing isn't your laptop or the handshake of the serial connection (or a bad serial cable) before you try to reflash the firmware.

MalibuJack

iTrader: (5)

I also noticed you have a turbo timer.. FWIW it has nothing to do with your problem, but please be aware that the more things you splice into your wiring harness, the more it degrades the signals to the ECU therefore if the signal from the MAF is weak, then you add the EIDS, then the UTEC, it could be the reason the ECU is unhappy.. Try installing a grounding kit if you find that to be the case, it doesnt always solve the problem, but It should help a little.

LEVIII

iTrader: (11)

I have been into cars for a long time and have just recently discovered forums so Im not that good at navigating the forums and when I try to search for usefull info I tend to get way lost and looking at a cai for the es, really not a help for me.

Anyways....
I am trying to find a laptop to borrow to try to fix the freezing, I really dont think (hope) it is the Utec. Then I will try to download the new stuff and try the new maps and maybe add some fuel for my compensation of 91.

As for the turbo timer, it is not connected anywhere near the ecu, only to the ign wires with the alarm install, and as for the eids i did a very good connection on the wires, I am an install manager for a car audio chain and have been installing for 5 years so I knw my way around wiring pretty well but I also know the connetion is still not as good as no splices. I havent been getting the cel anymore and was only getiing it in map1 but think I cured that with a lil more fuel, i think.

On another note today I was installing my SS Clutch line and ran to pep boys for some brake fluid and the only thing I did out of my norm routine was not shutting my lights off because I was not using the turbo timer so I let the car shut them off and when we came back to the car started it up and the cel came on for a second then some kind of realay or solinoid started clicking crazy fast under the hood, it was cliking like 5 times persecond, really realy fast and the car died and would not restart. We got out and popped the hood and as we started to listen for where the noise wqas coming form it stoped. I got back in the car and started it. It had a lil trouble starting but then revs s-l-o-w-l-y climed from about 200 back up to normal. I took er real easy coming home and she drove fine. Do you think this was the utec or the eids or something els? I dont think it had anything to do with the headlights but I have never left them on before and have the car turn them off with key.

dan

seriously

"Download the 1.3 Documentation for the UTEC and print it out"

instead of running base maps all the time, if you learn and understand the utec, you'll be using it's full potential.

MalibuJack

iTrader: (5)

Since you do car audio, then you know that when you add accessories in-line there's signal loss.. Its not so much the connection, but the amount of "Filtering" that the signal gets along the line.. Also at idle the signal is low 28-35hz, if it drops below that, you will get a MAF error (Signal low or something to that effect)
Its likely that the EIDS needs to be adjusted a bit so the signal is "more responsive" to changes in airflow so it won't real low in comparison to RPM and TPS readings..


Adding fuel will help because it raises the MAF reading slightly.

And I specifically said the Turbo timer isn't relevent, however it does (or should) tap into the TPS reading, and my point was when you splice into the wiring harness, you can effectively introduce noise, or degrade the signal even if your solder joints are perfect and done in the vacuum of space..

If your using an EIDS, then its a fair assumption that your using a VTA Blowoff valve, and possibly an aftermarket intake, all of which have an affect on your MAF readings and can cause the readings to drop abnormally low under some circumstances and trigger that light.


I realize searching can be difficult on occasion, so I always try to answer the questions when I hear them, but the answer to most of these questions is out there.

MalibuJack

iTrader: (5)

Oh, and the thing with the revving slowly, that sounds like the EIDS..

One of the weird glitches with these cars is the delayed shutoff of the electrical system, it sounds like something got out of sync and needed to be reset (a run cycle for the most part) It was likely sitting for some time after the ignition was cut, until the electrical system shut down, so you got a CEL because the ECU might have though it was still running and was trying to adjust.