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External Map Sensor

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Old Sep 17, 2004, 08:59 AM
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External Map Sensor

Molex 4 pin Receptacle housting # 39-01-2040
Molex receptacle crimps 18 to 24 AWG P/N 39-00-0039
(www.mouser.com)

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(First Gen) Sensor - GM part # 16040749, Holley PN 538-23. The Echlin equivalent 3 bar sensor is PN CRB219481
(First Gen)Pigitail GM park # 12085502

Replaced by (USE THESE PART #'s Instead)

Second Gen Sensor(3-bar) # 12223861
Second Gen Pigtail # 15305891
(www.gmpartsdirect.com)

-------------------------------------------------
Hi, I am trying to get external map sensor but very confuse.

which one I need to buy it? or any recommend sensor?

Thank you.
Old Sep 17, 2004, 09:40 AM
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Originally Posted by dktop
Molex 4 pin Receptacle housting # 39-01-2040
Molex receptacle crimps 18 to 24 AWG P/N 39-00-0039
(www.mouser.com)

----------------------------------

Second Gen Sensor(3-bar) # 12223861
Second Gen Pigtail # 15305891
(www.gmpartsdirect.com)

-------------------------------------------------
I did this recently and the items above are what I ordered.

You will also need some wire as the wire on the pigtail is maybe 9 inches long at most.

When you install the MAP sensor please post your calibration values too.
Old Sep 17, 2004, 12:49 PM
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I'm glad you guys found that info useful.. took me 2 weeks to track that stuff down.. LOL

But don't forget the wire, you may also need a crimper for the recepticals, I picked up a universal crimper at radio shack, just bring the parts with you to explain what your doing since their not the brightest bulbs..
Old Sep 20, 2004, 08:36 PM
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Sorry for a stupid question in advance, but how do you put all these parts together and hook it up? Does anyone have pictures or some helpful hints. Anything is greatly appriciated.
Old Sep 21, 2004, 05:34 AM
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There's a simple diagram in the documentation, but no photos.. Trust me, the hardest part is crimping the connectors, and figuring out where to run the wires and how long they should be..
Old Sep 22, 2004, 07:41 AM
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Originally Posted by dEdiYT11
Sorry for a stupid question in advance, but how do you put all these parts together and hook it up? Does anyone have pictures or some helpful hints. Anything is greatly appriciated.
I am not sure about that either...
Old Sep 22, 2004, 07:58 AM
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if I get a chance on friday or saturday, I'll take the connector out and photograph it and create a simple wiring diagram thats a bit nicer than whats in the documentation..
Old Sep 24, 2004, 10:56 PM
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Sorry for the stupid question but how many "Molex receptacle crimps 18 to 24 AWG P/N 39-00-0039" do I need to get?
Old Sep 24, 2004, 11:11 PM
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Originally Posted by MalibuJack
if I get a chance on friday or saturday, I'll take the connector out and photograph it and create a simple wiring diagram thats a bit nicer than whats in the documentation..

Thank you very much jack! ^^
Old Sep 25, 2004, 12:13 AM
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Originally Posted by whiterexman
Sorry for the stupid question but how many "Molex receptacle crimps 18 to 24 AWG P/N 39-00-0039" do I need to get?

You need at least 3 but i bought 4 just because I knew I would jack one up. And I did.

Ben
Old Sep 25, 2004, 06:17 AM
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Originally Posted by whiterexman
Sorry for the stupid question but how many "Molex receptacle crimps 18 to 24 AWG P/N 39-00-0039" do I need to get?
Bahaha.. I bought like a dozen connectors and 100 crimps.. I went through a dozen or so of them until I found a crimper that worked right without spending $160 on the molex crimper..

Buy like 10-12 just in case it takes a few tries.. But you only end up needing 3 or 4..
Old Sep 25, 2004, 06:20 PM
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I went to a local electronic supply to get the connectors. There are a few types of female crimp pins that will work, but all are from Molex Waldom. I got 20 or so pins and since they didn't have a 4 pin plug I bought an 8 pin and cut the outer 2 connector spaces of on both sides to make a 4-pin (spacing is the same among all the 39-01-xxxxx series. I then tracked down a Wells SU105 at a local AutoZone for 29.99. I didn't bother to buy the pigtail (they didn't have one anyway) because I was going to solder directly to the pins on the sensor, which I did. Voids the warranty (only 90 days on the Wells sensor), but saves $$$ and makes a more solid connection. Plus I knew I was goign to mount the sensor on the interior of the car anyway right in line with the line to my boost gauge. That way temperature does not reach the extremes of being mounted in the engine compartment and may not alter calibration values that much (hopefully). Everything seems to work OK for me. YMMV. I'm trying to rig up a BCD switch as a map selector for the dash tonight. I've already got such switches so I thought save myself a few bucks again. Well, off to find whether the switches are pull up or pull down.

L8R,
Matt
Old Sep 25, 2004, 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by mfoerschler
Everything seems to work OK for me. YMMV. I'm trying to rig up a BCD switch as a map selector for the dash tonight. I've already got such switches so I thought save myself a few bucks again. Well, off to find whether the switches are pull up or pull down.

L8R,
Matt
Matt ,

Any chance you could post your gradient and intercept data in this thread ? :

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...ad.php?t=98125
Old Sep 25, 2004, 07:09 PM
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I will as soon as I calibrate it, hopefully tomorrow. It's a 3-bar MAP sensor just like the part numbers mentioned above. Wells is a reputable company that makes many sensors and is ISO 9000 certified. They even have some cool info on the web site about sensor operation and testing. 3-bar is going to be just enough for it, I think. I see max vacuum of ~22 psi and max boost (stock) of about 19 psi, almost a 3 bar range in itself. Wondering if 3-bar is max range in each direction or max total range. Anyone know?
Old Sep 25, 2004, 07:45 PM
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Originally Posted by mfoerschler
I went to a local electronic supply to get the connectors. There are a few types of female crimp pins that will work, but all are from Molex Waldom. I got 20 or so pins and since they didn't have a 4 pin plug I bought an 8 pin and cut the outer 2 connector spaces of on both sides to make a 4-pin (spacing is the same among all the 39-01-xxxxx series. I then tracked down a Wells SU105 at a local AutoZone for 29.99. I didn't bother to buy the pigtail (they didn't have one anyway) because I was going to solder directly to the pins on the sensor, which I did. Voids the warranty (only 90 days on the Wells sensor), but saves $$$ and makes a more solid connection. Plus I knew I was goign to mount the sensor on the interior of the car anyway right in line with the line to my boost gauge. That way temperature does not reach the extremes of being mounted in the engine compartment and may not alter calibration values that much (hopefully). Everything seems to work OK for me. YMMV. I'm trying to rig up a BCD switch as a map selector for the dash tonight. I've already got such switches so I thought save myself a few bucks again. Well, off to find whether the switches are pull up or pull down.

L8R,
Matt
BCD normally open, 5 bit (0-9)... I have a cherry part # for the correct switch if I can find it (I bought a dozen switches and molex connectors)

You can even use BCD rotary encoder if you wanted to..

MAP sensor is a bit finicky about the length of vacuum line on it.. Keep it as short as possible to the source or it will read lower as the hose swells, the GM 3bar map sensor is not temperature sensitive, and I would assume any equivalant would not be either. Also soldering directly to the pins can damage the sensor since they all use a mylar membrane and measure based on deflection.

Last edited by MalibuJack; Sep 25, 2004 at 07:47 PM.


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