Ryan Bush

Wrong L pipe sorry i do know what your talking about and yeah that thing is very skinny, im in the process of trying to fab and weld something new to replace that piece of s**t . But i cant gripe to much cause the car still hauls ***, its more of an eye sore than anything right now, looking at it boggles my mind, but feels great on the butt dyno.

Boeturbolancer

iTrader: (26)

Most of the good knockoffs will say Garrett on them and have similiar taggings. They are made to appear exactly like the Garrett but they are different. Due to them being made out of the US there are no restrictions on name/design infringements.

They are considerably cheaper... i've heard some great things about them and i've heard horror stories about them as well. Seems to be about a 50/50 mix. If it fails though you can always change it out to another and just make a custom downpipe... no big deal.

livelyjay

iTrader: (20)

Could you take some pictures of the garrett tagging? I'd like to see this. Thanks.

EDIT: Nevermind, I can see what Boe is talking about in the pictures of the kit on ProStreet's web site. Doesn't look the same as the RRM turbo. But hey, if it works, who cares.

Go2fast

I got a bunch of pics this afternoon of my TSI kit. Its not that bad of a kit! A few mods and a couple of parts later the kit works great. You'll be in the kit $2000 to $2500 at most.

Go2fast

Here are the pics of my TSI kit on my car!!


Pic 1 and 2 are a overall of the engine bay.

Pic 3 is the downpipe that needed to be modified. That whole thing with sticking a couple of extra gaskets on it to space it down doesnt really work well. It'll still hit the oil pan and puts the exhaust out of line. My solution to the problem was to add about three inches right under the flange by add piping and welding it. Also, a O2 bung had to also be welded in. The one in the pitcure is the one i added. Its missing when you get the kit. Use a nut or spark plug failure (same thing they use to trick the rear O2). They're simple mods you can do or your local exhaust shop can do.

Im open to questions about the kit.

Im in the process of writting up a whole instruction sheet for the install.

Boeturbolancer

iTrader: (26)

I see you didn't have to get rid of the 2nd fan... is this due to it being a non-ic'd kit?

Also that heat sheild you have made on there... doesn't the kit come with a sheild that looks nice to go over the entire manifold?

Did you have to extend your O2 sensor wire to get it to reach?

Have you had any melting issues since you kept both fans in?

Lastly do you have a vented hood to help get rid of the extra heat or all you all stock/sleeper looking? Asking this as there have been a lot of melting stuff issues with that kit. If you have a vented hood that could be the reason your not melting and kindof a must have then.

Looks like the install was pretty clean and done well... what did you do for supporting fuel mods?

Can you show closer pics of turbo/exhaust manifold/wastegate/etc... just want to see if it is all the same as the others i've seen in person. So far you're the first non-ic'd i've seen/heard of.

Go2fast

Wait a sec!!!! My kit is intercooled!!!

The kit does come with a shield but it does not go down far enough to protect the fan. The fan did start to melt, so i made that shield to protect the fan and wrapped the turbo. No more melting. As for extra heat in the engine, there really isnt to much more heat b/c the TSI kit positions the turbo down instead of up like the RRM and i also ceramic coated the manifold and pipe to connect to the downpipe from the turbo. The ceramic we use at our shop does hell of wonders. It keeps the heat from escaping into the engine bay. Spend the extra money and use ceramic coat. Its one of the best ways to keep heat down. I really didn't want to spend the extra money for a fan if i didnt need too.

As for fuel mods, I threw out the TSI FMU and bought a 12:1 Vortech FMU and Walbro 255 pump and stay with the stock injector. With 7psi i/c at full throttle the EGT wont go over 1450*F.

I didnt have to extend the O2 sensor wires at all. Its called good planning.lol I put the O2 sensor almost in the same place as it was before. In the rear you just use two of those spark plug things and no CEL. This kit eliminates both cats.

The TSI kit i bought was the base kit for the lancer. No intercooler or fuel stuff was included. I bought an intercooler and universal intercooler piping kit to make the intercooler sytem. The other more expensive TSI is garbage i think!! Im not really fond of extra injectors in the intake.

Go2fast

Hey Boe! How far is the shop from Corona, CA. I looked it up and it doesnt look that far! Im flying in on Saturday night. That would be pretty sweet to come check the place out.

Boeturbolancer

iTrader: (26)

About 1 hr... i live in hemet so its about 1.5 from me and corona is about 30 mins from me. All heading west.

As for the IC/non-Ic it looked non-ic'd especially with the short ram style intake. My bad... so you ditched the tsi fmu and got a vortech huh? Why? Do you think you can do a list with pricing for the kit and all pieces you purchased as well as modifications to piping? This will give a better overall price of the kit from start to finish. Also include your install woes if any.

Also the ceramic coating price... i know you probably got the hookup since you work there but see what it would cost the average joe... around here it is about 100-150 for those pieces done at one off prices.

Go2fast

I ditched the TSI FMU b/c i really didnt trust it and i wanted to run a 12:1 ratio. The TSI FMU i think was a 10:1 and the EGT's were rising to high to fast. A ball park figure is about $2500.00. The kit runs around $1600.00 and you need small stuff like a BOV, fuel pump, boost controller,gauges, turbo timer, extra steel lines, intercooler and piping ( if wanted). Then there is also the downpipe welding and ceramic which shouldn't be more than $150 to $200 altogether.

The wastegate on the turbo is a single port internal one. Very easy to control boost.

We can say its about half the price RRM's stage 1. This kit pulls hard and worth the money i think. You just got to be able to do a little bit of moding to save a buck. I say if your sacred to get your hands dirty then go with RRM kit all day. TSI is a money saving kit if you do your research.

If anyone has anymore questions about the TSI let me know, BUT DO YOUR RESEARCH BEFORE ASKING ME STUPID ?'s. I have answered alot of the questions on it.

silkymp

iTrader: (6)

On the manifold there looks to be a spot for an external wasgate if you drilled it out. Do you think it's possible to run one on that manifold and have it function correctly. I ask because i've scene some places selling these manifolds and i might pick one up for my setup.

Go2fast

I really doubt you will just cut that out! Its a cast manifold! Its thick. Just use a internal wastegate! Why make things more complicated then you need to?

Ryan Bush

The fmu is 14:1 ive been using it for 2 years running up to12 psi daily and 14 psi when i get nasty, if you go to turbo specialties direct it shows each part priced out and gives a discription. And the cutout on the manifold is for an external wastegate i had a shop that said they have cut a few out like it, as for me im ok with the internal for now.

rhyzin

iTrader: (1)

i cringe at the thought that there's mathematically 241 psi fuel pressure at the injectors. there's probably less due to physical limitations, but still. are these on stock injectors? are there any additional injectors? i remember an injector block that bolts to the throttlebody use to be part of the kit.

Boeturbolancer

iTrader: (26)

basically the pumps usually max out around 70-120psi depending on style and maker. Out of tank pumps can go a lot higher but these numbers are for inline/intank pumps.

The big FMU basically makes the pressure come on at an earlier boost level and then stay there providing a constant fuel supply and dramatically increasing injector cc/flow rate. 240cc injectors almost become 450's due to the pressure!