Turbo Questions (BOV, Vac, Piggyback,etc)
Aug 9, 2005, 11:08 AM
#16
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Mine was driver's side also. Go fig. Slight imperfection in the design/machining maybe? 
Terry, was it the O-ring (injector feed side) or the seal (spray side, on the IM)? Technically they're both O-rings, but I'm just trying to clarify so I'm sure I understand you correctly. 
-30 what? inHG?
Terry, was it the O-ring (injector feed side) or the seal (spray side, on the IM)? Technically they're both O-rings, but I'm just trying to clarify so I'm sure I understand you correctly. -30 what? inHG?
Aug 9, 2005, 12:06 PM
#17
Originally Posted by HobieKopek
Mine was driver's side also. Go fig. Slight imperfection in the design/machining maybe? Terry, was it the O-ring (injector feed side) or the seal (spray side, on the IM)? Technically they're both O-rings, but I'm just trying to clarify so I'm sure I understand you correctly.
-30 what? inHG?
Terry, was it the O-ring (injector feed side) or the seal (spray side, on the IM)? Technically they're both O-rings, but I'm just trying to clarify so I'm sure I understand you correctly. -30 what? inHG?
sorry i am not sure, im gonna do my best to describe wherre the "O" ring came off it, if u dont understand ill ask my friend to find out for sure if u look at the actual injector, the O ring sits on the very top of the injector...
i hope that helps...i doubt it will
-30..look at the guage on the 1st page, its the 30 right below the 0, very bottom.
Aug 9, 2005, 12:27 PM
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Yeah, that's the O-ring. I refer to the ones that sit in the IM as injector seals. I think the manual does too, but I forget. It's just an easy way to tell them apart.
Aug 10, 2005, 10:00 AM
#21
keep adjusting till its at 1k...
Studder your feeling around that range could be two things. One is that your fluctuating really close to the decel loop at that vacuum/throttle. Thus it might be switch from the closed loop map to the decel map. Not to many cruise at those rpms as its a real bog on the motor. Most cruise about 2500 rpm... you may want to select your gearing better.
2nd cause... and one i've proven is if you have the greddy BOV. With both springs in it the car will studder like that as it can't lift it off fast enough. Take the smaller spring out and adjust it to about 3-5 turns in from totally loose/just touching on the adjustment screw. This should take car of the studder.
Let me know if you have any other issues.
Studder your feeling around that range could be two things. One is that your fluctuating really close to the decel loop at that vacuum/throttle. Thus it might be switch from the closed loop map to the decel map. Not to many cruise at those rpms as its a real bog on the motor. Most cruise about 2500 rpm... you may want to select your gearing better.
2nd cause... and one i've proven is if you have the greddy BOV. With both springs in it the car will studder like that as it can't lift it off fast enough. Take the smaller spring out and adjust it to about 3-5 turns in from totally loose/just touching on the adjustment screw. This should take car of the studder.
Let me know if you have any other issues.
Aug 10, 2005, 11:16 AM
#22
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Originally Posted by Talon5spd90
the only BOV that you can adjust the pitch on that I know of is the Greddy Type S but if you turbo'd your car just to have a loud BOV noise then you have issues
Aug 10, 2005, 12:23 PM
#23
Originally Posted by Talon5spd90
the only BOV that you can adjust the pitch on that I know of is the Greddy Type S but if you turbo'd your car just to have a loud BOV noise then you have issues
btw, obviously thats not the only really i want a turbo...its jus a big PLUS of having a turbo.
BOE, ill try the bov springs this weekend and try it. Also jus to claify, so now since its sitting at 700rpm currently, boost the idle up to 1000 rpm w/ no fans on??
Aug 10, 2005, 12:51 PM
#24
about the idle... yes adjust it. The instructions were written that way for a reason. Follow them to the letter okay.
as for the spring... definately do that mod. It should have been in the instructions as well unless you got it from another source. That should correct that hessitation during high vacuum. Your basically getting slight compressor surge that is washing back across the MAS sensor. This throws the fuel adjustment off. Remove the small spring and adjust as i stated and you'll be fine. The sound is the sound... leave it at 3-4 turns in and you'll have not issues. Further and you could start surging again.
as for the spring... definately do that mod. It should have been in the instructions as well unless you got it from another source. That should correct that hessitation during high vacuum. Your basically getting slight compressor surge that is washing back across the MAS sensor. This throws the fuel adjustment off. Remove the small spring and adjust as i stated and you'll be fine. The sound is the sound... leave it at 3-4 turns in and you'll have not issues. Further and you could start surging again.
Aug 15, 2005, 09:53 AM
#27
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for the greddy type s, the adustment screw is the screw that sticks out at the top. you can either tighten or loosen the spring by adjusting that screw or nut or whatever its called. you will get the hang of it once you fiddle with it and then take your car around the block to figure out what you like better.
Aug 15, 2005, 09:58 AM
#28
Caution should be used though... you can't just adjust to what you like the best. You have to adjust for compressor surge. Usually once you find it you back out about a half to one full turn and live with what you have. If you compressor surge often you will damage the turbo.
Aug 22, 2005, 12:18 PM
#29
k so i've been thinking of buying a Apexi SAFC but heres a question, is it really necessary...here is the reason i want it...
If I am taking a long drive but going at high speeds, I wanna lower my boost so I dont suck up lots of gas cause gas is 1.15/Liter here so I wanna do that and then if i wanna race around and what not I can jack the boost back up to 9psi. Should I get that boost controller or is there somehting cheaper that would be bigger bang for my buck? Also since I have the piggyback, is the SAFC beneficial for me at all???
If I am taking a long drive but going at high speeds, I wanna lower my boost so I dont suck up lots of gas cause gas is 1.15/Liter here so I wanna do that and then if i wanna race around and what not I can jack the boost back up to 9psi. Should I get that boost controller or is there somehting cheaper that would be bigger bang for my buck? Also since I have the piggyback, is the SAFC beneficial for me at all???
Aug 22, 2005, 01:22 PM
#30
Don't use the SAFC... that's what the piggyback is for. Also don't mess with the boost. If you want to save on gas keep your foot off the throttle. The car is tuned very well and you should be getting better gas mileage than the stock car if you keep off the gas. Don't play with the boost as the setup is tuned for the spring your on.
If you start changing things you'll be putting your car at risk. Keep it the way it is setup by RRM. Just stop laying into the gas if you want to save more.
If you start changing things you'll be putting your car at risk. Keep it the way it is setup by RRM. Just stop laying into the gas if you want to save more.