mines recirculated boostign 7psi with greddy type rs bov sounds good u def can hear it and it runs perfect

 

Ok new update, i went outside today to fiddle with this stupid flutter problem. First i checked all lines, and they were all fine, tightened everything, and listened for leaks, and it was all good. So then i said what the heck i will fool around a bit, so i pulled the recurculation tube off my blitz dd. Then i said well i want to see if the cylinder in the bov is working properly, so i pulled that little face plate off the blitz dd bov, and started it up to see if it opened when i let off the gas. Well it was wierd because it sounded LOUD and perfectm not like the flutter noise when the recurculation tube and bov face plate was on there, which was the wierd part becuase i did'nt plug the recurculation tube i just let it hang there. It did iddle rough so i desided to plug my recurculation tube, and bam it shut off WTF WTF!!!, so then i sdesided i wil take my K&N filter off, so i did. The recurculation tube was still pluged and bov still vented, and pppppssshhhhhhhh, again just a little bit softer since it was coming through the pipe insead of straight from the bov. Can anyone help me with this i cant for the love of god find out what the why it works like that, and it is killin me. So then i put the recurculation tube back on the bov, and my filter back on and bam flutter time once again, Someone pleeeaaassseee help! PM me since i have this conversation going on in alot of forums to solve this problem, thanks guys here is the full thread. https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/la...er-please.html

 

Loosen up the valve some and it should go away. Do have a pic of the setup recirculated?

 

hand tight it, then tighten it 2 full turns.
if it leaks, tighten it more

 

Already did that, tightened it and loosened it at almost every level that blow off valve has haha

 

If it's fluttering why would you tighten it?
Make sure the BOV is getting enough vacuum. Where is the vacuum line to the BOV coming from?

 

I checked all of that, vacuum is fine, it think it is just a low boost issue, since im only running 5psi. But it is wierd because when i take the recurc tube off and vta it blows off just fine, thats why im going with the new IC pipe and intake pipe set up and pressurizing my MAF like some turbo ralliart guys do.......if it does'nt sell first.......mmm skyline

 

Well i have a custom turbo ralliart, and i have RRM turbo piggy back. I cant VTA it idles wierd, but drived better, when i have it recurculated it idles fine but i get alot of flutter and does'nt drive as well. Is my car posessed or can this be fixed?? if anyone has any info for me let me know, PM is better, thanks guys.

 

switch to like a forge diverter valve or even a VW/Audi stock unit. A stock bosch valve is about $40 new or can be found for about $20 used.

 

+1 on the Forge diverter valve. That's what I'm running in my setup. I love the quality of it and the fact that you have full control over the pressure by changing the spring(s) on the inside just like on the Forge wastegates that everyone runs on their 16G6 setups.

 

Venting to air is just a noise. so if you want the noise then you just have to deal with the problem..I say forget the noise and go for the performance..You'd hate to have that thing pshhhhhhh ING next to a mustang and then he smokes you. Makes turbos look bad. I say silent and wickedly fast

 

For the record some of you guys my be a bit confused...

Recirc is better then VTA but not really for the reasons you guys are saying.

With out getting too technical because its late and i don't feel like spelling it out... When you VTA the motor dumps fuel into the motor for AIR that is not there. In return the car richens up slightly for a split second between shifts. People have been doing it for years and the only adverse effects are that you shoot fire ***** out the exhaust when you SHIFT, and when your pushing +25psi you MIGHT have some unnoticeable lag on the pick up of the next gear. Its some very minor stuff and nothing that will cause your car to stall so long as everything's setup correctly.

My lancer used to be on Recirc and now its VTA. There was no difference. When i was running open down pipe it would pop a fire ball every so rarely and with the full exhaust it still won't do it. On 6-10psi of boost its not going to dump enough fuel to do anything too impressive.


The good things to note when you VTA are that its easy and requires less space in the engine bay and not only that but less possibilities of boost leaks. And if you really think about it you'll see that durring the split instant the motor is richening up while your shifting that extra fuel is actually cooling the pistons down and that in my book is considered a good thing too.

The benefits of running Recirc don't really come into play unless your pushing a **** load of boost. And even then it don't really matter too much. Its only a better system to run because it's tricking the motor that nothing really happened.

 

From a tuning standpoint, that statement is just reckless. Our ECUs don't utilize a MAP sensor for fuel injection and tuning, making VTA tuning "just a guess". And on the 4G94, even at 6 or 7psi, just a guess has the ability to ruin the motor.

Just my 2 cents...

 

yep.. VTA is just not possible on our motors.
only way around it is a turbo with alot of lag.... i could get away with it on my car.. but its still.. 'just a guess' with tuning.. nothng really good can come of VTA when its just a guess.. your risking your motor for a little pshhhh sound..

sounds stupid.. but w/e.. ill stick to a good tune and a properly setup vehicle.

 

i love how people that never even tried it make huge guesses on how it wont work. To bad i ran vta the entire time my lancer was boosted w/o a single issue.

but hey, what do i know, i only built my own years ago....