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Old Nov 9, 2008, 10:13 AM
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^theres some neat videos online showing wear tests of royal purple versus what i think is mobil 1 but they only do the test once, not repeatedly... Any test results showing the comparissons between RP versus Amsoil? Oh and Doc you got a PM
Old Nov 9, 2008, 10:54 AM
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I am going to link to some test results for MotorCycle oils... Hopefully everyone understands that the Base Stocks are the same as Automotive oil, but they "should" have additives for the clutch and tranny added to make them even tougher. Evidently, RP doesn't do this.... LOL

The top of Page 9 will show that although RP starts out as a Solid 40 wgt, it shears out of Grade in the First Sequence of the test...

http://www.bestoil4you.com/files/g2156MCoilStudy.pdf

We have seen this time and again over the years with Royal Purple..

That is why I do not put a lot into the Dyno Tests... When the oil shears it has less resistance but it probably has less protection as well because it is showing poor film strength.

Doc
Old Nov 9, 2008, 07:11 PM
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Originally Posted by sykou
ep? whats that?
extended performance.
Old Nov 9, 2008, 07:34 PM
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^ is that a brand? never heard of that before....
Old Nov 10, 2008, 05:18 AM
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Originally Posted by sykou
^ is that a brand? never heard of that before....


Mobil 1 EP

It is the PAO Based Product unlike other Mobil 1 Products which are at best Hydro-Cracks...

Mobil 1 decided to take the same Route as Castrol and many of the others where the Law allows them to call a Hydro-Cracked oil a "Full" Synthetic.

Unfortunately, the Law also says you can call your oil 100% Synthetic with only a 30% Base Stock of Synthetic...

Doc
Old Nov 10, 2008, 10:30 PM
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What the hell. Only 30 percent synthetic!? So we are safe to say that amsoil is a TRUE full synthetic right?
Old Nov 11, 2008, 04:27 AM
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Originally Posted by sykou
What the hell. Only 30 percent synthetic!? So we are safe to say that amsoil is a TRUE full synthetic right?

Most AMSOIL Products are TRUE Synthetics utilizing PAO/Ester Base plus additives.

The exceptions are the 4 XL Products which are Hydro-Cracked ...


That is one of the reasons AMSOIL outperforms the competition..

Doc
Old Nov 17, 2008, 11:25 AM
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Originally Posted by sykou
^ hmmm..... whats the average temperature you see where you live. Like say the coldest and the hottest and the average everyday temp... Hawaii is pretty consistent 70s to high 80s so im curious to know....

I first lived in ND where we usually hit -40F, but I now moved to AZ so about 120 everyday in the summer. I am surprised at how well it stands up to heat though. But now that it is cooler out, it around 80 in the day and 40 at night, so not extreme. But that ND cold........ Sometimes not fun to live in.
Old Nov 17, 2008, 11:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Oil Doc
You're Right !!! Gotta love these oil threads !!!

Nobody has said you will "BLOW YOUR ENGINE" with Royal Purple so the Caps really weren't necessary.

You are right about not using conventional oil in a Turbo'd engine. Royal Purple isn't much, if any, better.

The problem we saw with Royal Purple in Independent tests, is that when the 10W-40 oil was tested, it sheared out of Grade in the First Sequence of a 3 Sequence ASTM Test.

So RP may work for the short run, it's performance lacks in the long run.

You may not experience a catastrophic failure immediately if ever, but you are wearing your engine out from sub-standard lubrication.

Doc

Well actually about 300 people told me RP blows up engines. Its on a thread on here. All I know is that I know an engine builder who builds raod and race engines..... if you use anything other than RP, not only will you void his warranty, but a flat tappet cam will go 100% flat in no time at all.... This has all been argued already and I got totally reamed for it, beleive what you like.
Old Nov 17, 2008, 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Oil Doc
I am going to link to some test results for MotorCycle oils... Hopefully everyone understands that the Base Stocks are the same as Automotive oil, but they "should" have additives for the clutch and tranny added to make them even tougher. Evidently, RP doesn't do this.... LOL

The top of Page 9 will show that although RP starts out as a Solid 40 wgt, it shears out of Grade in the First Sequence of the test...

http://www.bestoil4you.com/files/g2156MCoilStudy.pdf

We have seen this time and again over the years with Royal Purple..

That is why I do not put a lot into the Dyno Tests... When the oil shears it has less resistance but it probably has less protection as well because it is showing poor film strength.

Doc
They are a bit different.... I race motocross and GNCC and you can't use synthetic in the tranny because the clutch will slip.... And Royal Purple actually contain materials all other oil is rid of, such as zinc. That is why flat tappets are ruined almost instantly with any other oil.....Amsoil, Mobil one, pennzoil, doesnt matter. You need to use either racing oils or the stuff you can buy at the shelf. A flat tappet cam needs a way way higher film strength than anything else because of the contact pattern on the lifters.... there isnt any frictionless device there, so the oil must be good enough to withstand these extremes. Royal Puple has NOT been used all the time in this shop though... The oil laws changed in 2007 and pulled a bunch of very important materials out of motor oil. Of course these aftermarket engine builders were never told of this, so what happened?? Competition Cams lost over 100,000 cams in a 6 month period.... These cams worked fine before, but the oil changed and so did the life of the cam.....only to about 1,000 miles actually, sometimes a lot less. Kerry Torres, one of the best engine builders in AZ, lost 13 engines to cams because of the new oil. He researched and found out that precious metals were lost from the oil because of the EPA. Royal is independant, and still put these materials in the oil..... With RP Torres hasnt lost a single engine to cam failure. I know about all the tests people bring me, on how it loses viscosity..... all I know is that Torres uses it in all of his daily drivers, and his race cars, and for years he hasnt had a problem.
Old Nov 17, 2008, 11:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Oil Doc
Mobil 1 EP

It is the PAO Based Product unlike other Mobil 1 Products which are at best Hydro-Cracks...

Mobil 1 decided to take the same Route as Castrol and many of the others where the Law allows them to call a Hydro-Cracked oil a "Full" Synthetic.

Unfortunately, the Law also says you can call your oil 100% Synthetic with only a 30% Base Stock of Synthetic...

Doc
YEAH YOUR SAYING WHAT THE HELL....... I TOLD PEOPLE THIS EXACT SAME THING AND I GOT REAMED SO BAD IT WASNT FUNNY. What gives??? Wow this sucks......

I wasted a week of my life on this stupid forum arguing with so many immature people, then one guy says it again and its right. Doc you have to talk to some of the other guys on here, they told me i was an idiot for thinking that a "full syntetic" really isnt full synthetic at all. I hope some others read this and feel like an *** because of how they treated me.

Last edited by BlackOperative; Nov 17, 2008 at 11:53 AM.
Old Nov 17, 2008, 04:34 PM
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Well sometimes the more people hear something, it clicks in their head that the other guy (you) may have been right...

I bump up against the same thing at times... People will talk to enough people to find one that will agree with them and believe that one person.

The good one's are "My Mechanic Said" or "My Engine Builder Said" ... Few Mechanics or engine builders know very much about oil, much less synthetic oil and they have this BS Attitude that Thicker is better...

I have invested 35 years in this and the last 25 with AMSOIL... I let a lot of it roll off my back and smile..

Doc
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