Help With Using RRM Piggyback V2 for Turbo!
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Help With Using RRM Piggyback V2 for Turbo!
Hello All, I have been on EvoM for a few months now, soaking up all the information i can on here, but i have run into a little snag, and this is my first post because i couldn't find any info on this anywhere.
I currently have the RRM Version 2 PiggyBack running on my 02 manual OZ, i have been buying and piecing together my own turbo kit(mostly off an evo 8), and i am wondering for tuning once the kit is up and running, if the version 2 can be used, or if i have to get either the turbo PB version, or version 1 with the vacuum line.
I would rather not spend another 400 bucks on the turbo PB, has anyone used this set up before?
Thanks Everyone In Advance for your help.
I currently have the RRM Version 2 PiggyBack running on my 02 manual OZ, i have been buying and piecing together my own turbo kit(mostly off an evo 8), and i am wondering for tuning once the kit is up and running, if the version 2 can be used, or if i have to get either the turbo PB version, or version 1 with the vacuum line.
I would rather not spend another 400 bucks on the turbo PB, has anyone used this set up before?
Thanks Everyone In Advance for your help.
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hey check this out it talks about that i hope it helps ya https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=215724
Last edited by *02Lancer*; Oct 25, 2008 at 09:06 AM. Reason: typo
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Still Searching For An Answer
Thanks For The Response, I have gone through that post and read all that info before, but it still doesn't really help me. I know the piggyback adjusts your fuel map and controls timing, but if its all the same, why haven't they released a V2 turbo PB yet?
I Emailed RRM and just got a response from Rob, he said "Version 2 is not the best for turbo applications"..... But what does that really mean!? Is it code for spend another 400 buck on something you already have that will work just fine?
My question i guess at this point would be, What is the major difference between the Turbo PB and the N/A PB? Speculating you also have the software to be able to tune the V2 N/A PB, just like the Turbo V1 PB
C'mon i know somebody knows this out there!
I Emailed RRM and just got a response from Rob, he said "Version 2 is not the best for turbo applications"..... But what does that really mean!? Is it code for spend another 400 buck on something you already have that will work just fine?
My question i guess at this point would be, What is the major difference between the Turbo PB and the N/A PB? Speculating you also have the software to be able to tune the V2 N/A PB, just like the Turbo V1 PB
C'mon i know somebody knows this out there!
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if you knew you were going the turbo route why did you get the ver. 2? Even when they released ver. 2 I still bought ver. 1 just in case I went the turbo route, and i did.
the difference i think between the piggybacks is ver. 1 goes off by manifold pressure, and ver. goes off by voltage. im guessing ver. 1 would be easier to tune because it sees manifold pressure when building boost
you can always get rid of that piggyback and use the money for a dyno tune. I have the stage 2 turbo piggyback, if I end up using ecuflash I'll be selling it for half the price
the difference i think between the piggybacks is ver. 1 goes off by manifold pressure, and ver. goes off by voltage. im guessing ver. 1 would be easier to tune because it sees manifold pressure when building boost
you can always get rid of that piggyback and use the money for a dyno tune. I have the stage 2 turbo piggyback, if I end up using ecuflash I'll be selling it for half the price
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I have not worked with a Lancer's PB but it looks eeriely similar to the Split Second units .... I would not want to offer you advice since I have never messed with one of them, but the choice of most piggyback users I know is Emanage. Perhaps you could sell the RRM unit to an NA user and look into getting the Emanage for yourself?
Outside of that, I would press RRM for more / clearer answers as to if you can retune your unit for turbo, if it is useless for turbo etc etc.
Also ....
These are all questions you should ask RRM since it is better to get information from the source than 2nd hand information. Most on here who have dealt with them say that they are excellent with customer service .... so give em a call and see what that nets you. Be sure to report back so others in the same predicament can have answers as well
.
Outside of that, I would press RRM for more / clearer answers as to if you can retune your unit for turbo, if it is useless for turbo etc etc.
Also ....
I Emailed RRM and just got a response from Rob, he said "Version 2 is not the best for turbo applications"..... But what does that really mean!? Is it code for spend another 400 buck on something you already have that will work just fine?
My question i guess at this point would be, What is the major difference between the Turbo PB and the N/A PB? Speculating you also have the software to be able to tune the V2 N/A PB, just like the Turbo V1 PB
My question i guess at this point would be, What is the major difference between the Turbo PB and the N/A PB? Speculating you also have the software to be able to tune the V2 N/A PB, just like the Turbo V1 PB
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Well when I purchased the V2 piggyback i wasn't planning on going turbo. It makes sense why the Turbo PB would be a better choice because with the vacuum line being able to read boost levels and respond to them is seemingly more effective then just running off voltage. However if i am only going to be running 7 psi and getting V2 it tuned it technically should work just fine. Maybe not as well as the turbo version might... but should :/
I dunno, I'll give RRMs customer service a call later this week and let you guys know my findings. Thanks for the help.
I dunno, I'll give RRMs customer service a call later this week and let you guys know my findings. Thanks for the help.
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#8
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OK.... the reason why you cant use the V2 is becasue it doesnt have the vacuum line..... you need that to tune a turbo with the rrm piggy.... they are split second piggys just reworked for the lancer. The V1 with the vacuum line uses an internal MAP sensor so it knows when you hit boost..... with the V2, it only tunes by voltage, which it gathers from the MAF sensor. This is an issue because the sensor has to be placed on the intake side of the turbo, not the pressured side, so it is measuring how much air goes in, thats it. I have the V1, and love it, it is for the lancer and the Emanage.... well I havent been familiarized with that one yet, but to keep things simple buy the V1. you will still need to get it professionally tuned..... not sure if you know but you cant just upload a turbo map and expect your car to run right.... EVERY car is different even if they appear identical, so fine tuning can give you a good amount of power even if its the same as the guy next to you. as far as i know you cant get it tuned very well with voltage..... you will NEVER be able to get it perfect, its taking measurments that can change dramatically from what you are actually doing on the pressurized side..... there is a turbo between it. Fluctuations in boost and throttle will cause it to go lean or rich...... just do yourself and your tuner a favor, sell the V2 and buy the V1..... its what has to be done. Hope this helps later man
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If that's the case, I would recommend Emanage... more tuners are more familiar with that, than Split Second / RRM's unit and you can readily make changes more easily with Emanage.
#10
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That may be the case, Like i said I have never used it, but from what I know you can fine tune a bit better with the SS, just gotta know what you are doing.... I was going to go Emanage and part of me still wishes i had, but we will see
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OK.... the reason why you cant use the V2 is becasue it doesnt have the vacuum line..... you need that to tune a turbo with the rrm piggy.... they are split second piggys just reworked for the lancer. The V1 with the vacuum line uses an internal MAP sensor so it knows when you hit boost..... with the V2, it only tunes by voltage, which it gathers from the MAF sensor. This is an issue because the sensor has to be placed on the intake side of the turbo, not the pressured side, so it is measuring how much air goes in, thats it. I have the V1, and love it, it is for the lancer and the Emanage.... well I havent been familiarized with that one yet, but to keep things simple buy the V1. you will still need to get it professionally tuned..... not sure if you know but you cant just upload a turbo map and expect your car to run right.... EVERY car is different even if they appear identical, so fine tuning can give you a good amount of power even if its the same as the guy next to you. as far as i know you cant get it tuned very well with voltage..... you will NEVER be able to get it perfect, its taking measurments that can change dramatically from what you are actually doing on the pressurized side..... there is a turbo between it. Fluctuations in boost and throttle will cause it to go lean or rich...... just do yourself and your tuner a favor, sell the V2 and buy the V1..... its what has to be done. Hope this helps later man
I have not even read anything into or heard to much about the emanage, does it work in the same respect? by hooking up to the lines in the ecu atleast?
#13
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BlackOp that is the best description I could have asked for. Thank You, It answers the question perfectly. I was told that the V2 can work with turbo with bigger injectors, but it is not going to be nearly as good as having the turbo version, or the V1, because they are boost responsive.
I have not even read anything into or heard to much about the emanage, does it work in the same respect? by hooking up to the lines in the ecu atleast?
I have not even read anything into or heard to much about the emanage, does it work in the same respect? by hooking up to the lines in the ecu atleast?
#15
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Well there you go..... just remember..... even if you had the exact kit that that piggy is tuned for, you still need to get it tuned by a professional. That stage 2 map might be an ok starting point, but beyond that it is going to require tuning.