first E85 turbo lancer?
#18
ya, only rods?.. you really do need to upgrade the pistons, rods, and headstuds.. no point in upgrading just 1 or the other.. if u dont do it all, you still cant really run 12+psi 'safely'.. blowing up a piston up or lifting the head still can all equal the same thing, new motor depending on the damage caused from something failing.
i already know what my next step is with my car.. and i cant wait..
pistons/rods/heastuds/decomp/meth.. should be interesting at 1bar
i already know what my next step is with my car.. and i cant wait..
pistons/rods/heastuds/decomp/meth.. should be interesting at 1bar
Last edited by Demon_ni2; May 10, 2009 at 02:06 PM.
#20
Either way, most of us aren't in the position to make an experiment out of how much the stock pistons/rods can take by slowing turning up the dial.
#21
True I was just suggesting to the OP that he should upgrade the bottom end, before he increases the boost any further, to prevent destroying his internals.
If you read my other posts, I have been saying this i was merely using the Rods as the most likely thing to go. As Demon ni2 suggested a number of things could go and I agree. Like I said I was just using the rods, as an example, and it's true that they would likely be one of the first things to go.
If you read my other posts, I have been saying this i was merely using the Rods as the most likely thing to go. As Demon ni2 suggested a number of things could go and I agree. Like I said I was just using the rods, as an example, and it's true that they would likely be one of the first things to go.
#22
Yea I'm going to have to wait until I can buy pistons and head studs. Can't wait!
But then again I have to get my car smoged this year for the first time and I am thinking if
I should just wait until then to complete the build because I might have to return it to stock in order to pass. I don't want to install everything and remove it all again in a couple months.
I wonder if e85 will help me pass since it's cleaner.
But then again I have to get my car smoged this year for the first time and I am thinking if
I should just wait until then to complete the build because I might have to return it to stock in order to pass. I don't want to install everything and remove it all again in a couple months.
I wonder if e85 will help me pass since it's cleaner.
#23
lol.. just do what my friend did.. add 4 cats that are bolted in.. go pass the smog test and take it right back off.. lol..
but ya..^^ rods/pistons = main problem.. (i bent a rod and ripped half my #1 cylinder wall out on my first motor at 15psi, lol) but honestly.. 200$ motor isnt a big deal..
ill be doing headstuds & decomp gasket, and going to 10psi(wastegate controlled).. then pistons and rods and going up to 14psi. and ill add meth to help with reducing detonation. about it for me... thats about the route i would suggest for most people also..
after that.. ill be going to a bigger turbo and more unique looking setup for show..
but ya..^^ rods/pistons = main problem.. (i bent a rod and ripped half my #1 cylinder wall out on my first motor at 15psi, lol) but honestly.. 200$ motor isnt a big deal..
ill be doing headstuds & decomp gasket, and going to 10psi(wastegate controlled).. then pistons and rods and going up to 14psi. and ill add meth to help with reducing detonation. about it for me... thats about the route i would suggest for most people also..
after that.. ill be going to a bigger turbo and more unique looking setup for show..
#25
The farther you lower the C/R the more driveability you lose from the motor just to compensate for the boost your motor will see only in the mid to upper powerband.
#26
#30
you are increasing the power of the motor by itself. This will increase your off boost power, response, mpg, and decrease lag. The aggressive cams will most likely rob low end power for high rpm power depending on the grind regardless of compression