So i was reading in a thread that the new C-SRT4 Internals are compatible with the 4b12 2.4L engine? Am i correct or way off? Also if this is true which internals would be available for replacement cams, etc. Ive been working on getting a custom turbo kit together for my 2009 Lancer GTS cvt. If I could get higher performance internals for cheaper than custom I may be able to play around with boost settings etc.

For those interested in my custom turbo this is what I have purchased so far, it will be installed hopefully this upcoming summer maybe sooner:

Have:
-Mitsubishi evo 3 big 16g tdh05 turbo
-Megan racing small intercooler (some mods wil need to be done to install it)
-Greddy BOV
-Tial wastegate
-Greddy emanage ultimate
-Custom intercooler piping
-Various tubes, lines, gaskets and wires for install
-Megan racing gauges version 1 (all of them except water temp)
-RC fuel injectors 370cc
-oil lines and components
Need:
-Intake filter and pipe
-Exhaust Manifold (in process of being fabricated)
-Down pipe
-greddy Profec B spec 2
-cvt cooler/managment system (we'll see what happens)

Feel free to give any opinions on if i should change anything or what you think can be done better, just make sure its justifiable. The more quality input the better for everyone who wants to turbo their 08+ lancer weather it be 2.0L or 2.4L manual or cvt.

You guys are probably questioning my experience with turbo's. Well ive only done one other custom turbo project on a bmw e30 with one of my buddies and it worked out great, but I no longer have that car and am familiarizing myself with japanese engines so this is what i got to work with.

 

I have a stock 9 intercooler if you need it!

 

I believe you may have read one of my posts. I have both the caliber srt4 serivce manual and the lancer one, both blocks are the same, both heads are the same. The clearances are different in the CSRT4 to the lancer as are most of the block internals. I haven't looked into seeing if the cams are diffrent or what but I can check. I'm probably going to throw in the caliber rods, pistons and rings since you can get a set for around $300 ish if my memory is correct.
From there the cranks are the same, so just get some decent bearings.
maybe run some arp headstuds and a better headgasket if you really want but its probably not needed unless your putting down 400whp+.. in which case I'd advise against CSRT4 internals and just spend the money on the upgraded aftermarket ones.
The stock internals are good for easy 350whp to around 400whp.. after that I've read many blocks have let go...

 

Okay sounds good and yea it was your posting I was reading its very interesting opens up a lot of possibilities. Im not looking to be a hero and get impressive gains (400+) by turboing. I will probably be looking to get around 280whp (hopefully if I can find a way to keep the cvt in check). Its just something to compete with RRM maybe. Seeing if the tech savvy lancer owner can throw together a reliable and producible turbo kit on a budget, maybe create a generalized guide to this and compile some turbo options for the 4b12. The reason im curious about internals or upgrading parts to perform better is to see what "potentially" the 4b12 has to offer. Of course at a price lol not looking to spend 10k to supe up my 4b12, looking for cost effective, reliable and budgeted.

scumrat ill keep you posted if i cant get the megan racing one to fit ill most likely resort to the evo 9.
turbotime would love to converse more about the srt4 parts, def check about the cams. I will most likely end up purchasing the srt4 rods, pistons and rings, cams (if compatible im thinking they arnt but one never knows).

 

Now as for the CVT problem (the reason I have a cvt and not a manual is that whole cash for clunkers time constraint I would prefer a manual but im working with what I got)> So first should probably work on a sprintbooster and timing control. Im also going to look into higher performance primary and secondary pullies, and look into higher rated performance belt. I will also be looking into a cvt cooler and clutch springs. Once I hook up the greddy emanage ultimate ill see if ill be able to tap into the cvt ecu. It shouldnt take many tweaks to get the cvt to handle the torque, the cvt should be able to handle up to ~300whp not sure on torque numbers yet. I might pull my cvt tomorrow just to get a break down on what components Im dealing with and if i can make any of the parts myself.

 

Good luck with that. You are going to be in for one hell of a trip.

 

Where on LI are you located? When you start getting the turbo in, lets get together.....

 

Hey sicktght311, hell yea could always use a second opinion on things just to make sure things dont get overlook 2 brains are better than one. So yea im not sure when this project will get off the ground but i did pull my cvt today and oh boy am I in for some work ahead of me, but the good thing is that both pulleys are definitely customizable and ill be searching for a new belt also. When i got back up to RIT ill head to the machine shop talk with some guys i know down there and see what i can get done about CNCing new pulleys and maybe some clutch springs. Im looking at most of the internals and for this application ill only really need 1) sprintbooster/timing control 2)cvt cooler 3) upgraded pullies and 4) clutch springs. So tapping into the cvt ecu looks like a task but doable. Im confident about getting ~280whp. Also im in the town of babylon.

 

My automotive teacher told me that the cvt has a few bolts that can only be taken off once so be careful with that lancer cvt

 

who is your automotive teacher? i got my cvt out and back in with no problems.

 

there is a vid link under the tranny section of this forum that states that the bolts that bolt the tranny to the block can only be stretched once. The same was true for my honda CR-V cyl head bolts and camshaft bearing bolts. I replaced the head gasket and tried to reuse the bolts. they kept breaking just before I got to the spec'd torque. I called a dealer to get replacements and he told me that generally, the engine bolts are very hard alloy and can only be stretched once.

 

hmmm, well either I don't have my bolts at the right torque spec or I got lucky.

 

Think the vid actually says "should be replaced". In my case, the bearing cap bolts are very small (6mm) so they were breaking easily, but the cyl head bolts are much larger so they might have been ok. If I were you I would replace them if you ever pull the tranny off again but those bolts are larger so you may not have any issues. I decided to replace all of my bolts b/c I just did not want to have to take the cyl head off again. Figured it would be better to replace them now than replace them later.

 

Yea now that you're saying this, i should get some replacement bolts because i will be pulling the tranny to put in some upgraded internals thanks for the heads up

 

no problem man glad to help before tragedy happens