Turbo q's!
Jul 8, 2010, 07:59 PM
#46
This is 03lances bracket. Without knocking him, because he's like...my inspiration for turboing, but if you see where the bracket is, it's up pretty high. He may have something lower as well, and I'm not sure, but I think it's best to extend the distance between the top mounting point (ie the bolts holding the mani to the engine) and the bottom point (ie our bracket). The farther away the 2 are, and the more "inline" with the force, the longer it will stand up. I really don't mean for it to sound like I'm knocking his bracket, but when I fab this little puppy up, I am shooting to get 1 or maybe 2 as low on the engine/o2 housing area as I can, to absorb the forward/backward movement of the turbo. I also like 03lances idea of usign some flexpipe (not crappy autozone stuff, but legit flexpipe) or getting a downpipe with it built in. I realize they do leak some, but it's cheaper to replace the flexpipe (and looks better) than the mani.
. What this bracket does really is disperse the turbo weight so instead of it pulling all its weight on the top welds of the manifold where it bolts to the head this bracket makes it so the weight is being supported by the entire welds there making it alot more secure and much much less prone to cracking your mainfold 
Jul 8, 2010, 08:47 PM
#47
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Hornstar is correct a bottom bracket is prefferred as well as this one, I have been lazy and not installed a bottom bracket and it may or may not bite me in the *** . What this bracket does really is disperse the turbo weight so instead of it pulling all its weight on the top welds of the manifold where it bolts to the head this bracket makes it so the weight is being supported by the entire welds there making it alot more secure and much much less prone to cracking your mainfold
. What this bracket does really is disperse the turbo weight so instead of it pulling all its weight on the top welds of the manifold where it bolts to the head this bracket makes it so the weight is being supported by the entire welds there making it alot more secure and much much less prone to cracking your mainfold Deff will be doing this bracket as with a bottom bracket as well! great idea!
Jul 9, 2010, 09:13 AM
#48
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The bracket design was finished recently from what I know, but only 2 of them had been made. I was hoping to get pics, but unfortunately something came up and they weren't able to send them to me yet. Sorry for the random post, but I figured I'd let you guys know what I know about it.
Jul 9, 2010, 10:12 AM
#49
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The bracket design was finished recently from what I know, but only 2 of them had been made. I was hoping to get pics, but unfortunately something came up and they weren't able to send them to me yet. Sorry for the random post, but I figured I'd let you guys know what I know about it.
Thats not a random post! good updated info! Thanks man
Jul 9, 2010, 01:01 PM
#50
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I have a pretty good idea on how to install the turbo kit, the IC piping, the oil feed/ return line/ the cooling lines for the turbo, i still need to research how to install the FMU and evo9 BOV and how to route the vac lines, i already have a vac/boost gauge and oil pressure gauge and volt gauge installed so im going to get a EGT gauge oil temp and W-AFR gauge. Since im only going to be at about 5 PSI im thinking i can stick with the 330CC injectors included in the pre-kit with my stock fuel pump and kind of pre-tune it with the greddy e-manage so i can drive safely because this car is my DD. Once i can have the car drivable safely im going to install the 440 injectors with the 255 fuel pump and up the boost to 7-8 PSI and tune with ECUflash and get a tactrix 2.0 openport. That sound ok? Basically this is my DD car so i need to be able to drive it right after i install the turbo, is this safe/ possible?
Jul 9, 2010, 11:12 PM
#51
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I have a pretty good idea on how to install the turbo kit, the IC piping, the oil feed/ return line/ the cooling lines for the turbo, i still need to research how to install the FMU and evo9 BOV and how to route the vac lines, i already have a vac/boost gauge and oil pressure gauge and volt gauge installed so im going to get a EGT gauge oil temp and W-AFR gauge. Since im only going to be at about 5 PSI im thinking i can stick with the 330CC injectors included in the pre-kit with my stock fuel pump and kind of pre-tune it with the greddy e-manage so i can drive safely because this car is my DD. Once i can have the car drivable safely im going to install the 440 injectors with the 255 fuel pump and up the boost to 7-8 PSI and tune with ECUflash and get a tactrix 2.0 openport. That sound ok? Basically this is my DD car so i need to be able to drive it right after i install the turbo, is this safe/ possible?
Jul 10, 2010, 08:08 AM
#52
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I think with the 330 injectors, you can run 7-8psi without an FMU...should double check the numbers using the fuel post that's stickied, but when you have the emanage or ecuflash...the fmu isn't necessary, as it's more like a bandaid to guestimate how much extra fuel you will need per psi. The turbo only kicks in at like 3500 rpms or whatever....so 0 tune, you can drive it if you don't smash on the pedal, and just keep out of boost. Now, changing injectors is a different story, if you do that you must rescale your injectors using ecuflash or something similar so that you don't go running uber rich. I'm not sure emanage can do that btw, it may require ecuflash.
Ill have to look and see if Emanage can do this, if not ill have to save up for the tactrix cable and become farmilliar with ECUflash! Thats good to know that once i install it if i keep it out of boost i can be ok to drive! This way i can still get to work, stay out of boost, and when i get off work start to tune! :-) If i didnt use the 330 injectors how good is the stock fuel pump and stock injectors for boost at 5 PSI? Thats alot for taking so much time to help me, really appreciate it bro
Jul 10, 2010, 07:46 PM
#53
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5 psi is about the max you ought to go on stock injectors, maybe 6 or even 7 would be ok. You can check your Injector Duty Cycle with a Tactrix cable and see how close you are to maxing them out. I think you'd be fine to do up to 10 psi even on the stock fuel pump, JRR says he's using it at like...15 psi or something insane.
Jul 10, 2010, 08:37 PM
#54
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5 psi is about the max you ought to go on stock injectors, maybe 6 or even 7 would be ok. You can check your Injector Duty Cycle with a Tactrix cable and see how close you are to maxing them out. I think you'd be fine to do up to 10 psi even on the stock fuel pump, JRR says he's using it at like...15 psi or something insane.
Awesome! im so pumped to get this going!!! Maybe ill install the 330 injectors included, better safe than sorry!
Im going to look for a cable and a wideband, then im going to look for the slim fans and IC and piping!
Jul 10, 2010, 11:07 PM
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Yeah, like you said, better safe than sorry...you don't wanna run out of fuel at 6000 rpms with 7psi of boost going, sounds like a recipe for disaster.
Jul 11, 2010, 07:26 AM
#56
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I read up on the emanage....and it does appear to allow for increasing injector size, but takes a special harness, does the kit you're planning to buy have that harness? If not, did the previous owner get the injector size scaled via a tactrix cable? Just my initial impression of the emanage is "eh" because I've seen what the ecuflash and evoscan software can do with a tactrix cable...and it's a crap ton. I can't believe the potential that gets unlocked, and can't see anyone doing anything else to get their lancer rolling on boost. I mean, even the full blown AEM entire ECU doesn't seem like it can do much more than 100% customization via the lancer ecu.
Yeah, like you said, better safe than sorry...you don't wanna run out of fuel at 6000 rpms with 7psi of boost going, sounds like a recipe for disaster.
Yeah, like you said, better safe than sorry...you don't wanna run out of fuel at 6000 rpms with 7psi of boost going, sounds like a recipe for disaster.
What would you say the stock AUTO trans is good for boost wise? Can it take 5-10PSI? (i dont plan on boosting more than 10 PSI on this car)
Jul 12, 2010, 09:09 PM
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slim fans , for the the turbo kit I'd suggest one 12" slim fan for the passenger side and one 10" for the driver side...get them local at an auto parts store , if one happens to break or not function you wont have to deal with waiting for a replacment from an ebay vendor ...
for the injectors dont go lower then 440cc's even at 5psi theres more then enough air produced from the turbo to make it impossible to tune it right , its better to be over fueled then under fueled , its alot easier to replace a fouled o2 then it is to replace burned and shattered pistons ...dont use an FMU its a bandaid fix for the right parts ...
get yourself a 1995 eclipse gsx fuel pump , its shorter then a walbro and fits the assembly without mods and also flows better and more then stock, I believe it was 180-190 lph more then enough for the limited boost you can run on the stock 4g94 rods
all piping from the 8/9 evo fits even on the auto lancer but the dipstick tube will be the bain of the intake pipes existance , you can swap the pan from a 4g64 galant,stratus coupe etc. which has a shorter dipstick and tube...
You absolutely need a trans cooler , it is a typical issue with all auto transmissions that they get hot from excess load , and when they do they burn up fluid,clutches etc...I'd suggest a b&m style mounted on the driver side then remove the bumper/foglight opening cover ...
the ecu flash programming is intimidating at 1st but you've stared at the mutIII logger at mitsu for many years its not all that difficult to figure out
for the injectors dont go lower then 440cc's even at 5psi theres more then enough air produced from the turbo to make it impossible to tune it right , its better to be over fueled then under fueled , its alot easier to replace a fouled o2 then it is to replace burned and shattered pistons ...dont use an FMU its a bandaid fix for the right parts ...
get yourself a 1995 eclipse gsx fuel pump , its shorter then a walbro and fits the assembly without mods and also flows better and more then stock, I believe it was 180-190 lph more then enough for the limited boost you can run on the stock 4g94 rods
all piping from the 8/9 evo fits even on the auto lancer but the dipstick tube will be the bain of the intake pipes existance , you can swap the pan from a 4g64 galant,stratus coupe etc. which has a shorter dipstick and tube
...You absolutely need a trans cooler , it is a typical issue with all auto transmissions that they get hot from excess load , and when they do they burn up fluid,clutches etc...I'd suggest a b&m style mounted on the driver side then remove the bumper/foglight opening cover ...
the ecu flash programming is intimidating at 1st but you've stared at the mutIII logger at mitsu for many years its not all that difficult to figure out
Jul 12, 2010, 09:52 PM
#58
slim fans , for the the turbo kit I'd suggest one 12" slim fan for the passenger side and one 10" for the driver side...get them local at an auto parts store , if one happens to break or not function you wont have to deal with waiting for a replacment from an ebay vendor ...
for the injectors dont go lower then 440cc's even at 5psi theres more then enough air produced from the turbo to make it impossible to tune it right , its better to be over fueled then under fueled , its alot easier to replace a fouled o2 then it is to replace burned and shattered pistons ...dont use an FMU its a bandaid fix for the right parts ...
get yourself a 1995 eclipse gsx fuel pump , its shorter then a walbro and fits the assembly without mods and also flows better and more then stock, I believe it was 180-190 lph more then enough for the limited boost you can run on the stock 4g94 rods
all piping from the 8/9 evo fits even on the auto lancer but the dipstick tube will be the bain of the intake pipes existance , you can swap the pan from a 4g64 galant,stratus coupe etc. which has a shorter dipstick and tube...
You absolutely need a trans cooler , it is a typical issue with all auto transmissions that they get hot from excess load , and when they do they burn up fluid,clutches etc...I'd suggest a b&m style mounted on the driver side then remove the bumper/foglight opening cover ...
the ecu flash programming is intimidating at 1st but you've stared at the mutIII logger at mitsu for many years its not all that difficult to figure out
for the injectors dont go lower then 440cc's even at 5psi theres more then enough air produced from the turbo to make it impossible to tune it right , its better to be over fueled then under fueled , its alot easier to replace a fouled o2 then it is to replace burned and shattered pistons ...dont use an FMU its a bandaid fix for the right parts ...
get yourself a 1995 eclipse gsx fuel pump , its shorter then a walbro and fits the assembly without mods and also flows better and more then stock, I believe it was 180-190 lph more then enough for the limited boost you can run on the stock 4g94 rods
all piping from the 8/9 evo fits even on the auto lancer but the dipstick tube will be the bain of the intake pipes existance , you can swap the pan from a 4g64 galant,stratus coupe etc. which has a shorter dipstick and tube
...You absolutely need a trans cooler , it is a typical issue with all auto transmissions that they get hot from excess load , and when they do they burn up fluid,clutches etc...I'd suggest a b&m style mounted on the driver side then remove the bumper/foglight opening cover ...
the ecu flash programming is intimidating at 1st but you've stared at the mutIII logger at mitsu for many years its not all that difficult to figure out
+1 with the GSX pump it took me less than 15 mins to install, I had difficulties with the walbro but the GSX works just as good and I plan on only running 10 psi on my setup and if I want to boost more I'll just buy an evo.
Hey Turbolancer should I get a trans cooler even for a Manual transmission? or is that what the fluid is for in the transmission case?
Jul 13, 2010, 05:33 AM
#59
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slim fans , for the the turbo kit I'd suggest one 12" slim fan for the passenger side and one 10" for the driver side...get them local at an auto parts store , if one happens to break or not function you wont have to deal with waiting for a replacment from an ebay vendor ...
for the injectors dont go lower then 440cc's even at 5psi theres more then enough air produced from the turbo to make it impossible to tune it right , its better to be over fueled then under fueled , its alot easier to replace a fouled o2 then it is to replace burned and shattered pistons ...dont use an FMU its a bandaid fix for the right parts ...
get yourself a 1995 eclipse gsx fuel pump , its shorter then a walbro and fits the assembly without mods and also flows better and more then stock, I believe it was 180-190 lph more then enough for the limited boost you can run on the stock 4g94 rods
all piping from the 8/9 evo fits even on the auto lancer but the dipstick tube will be the bain of the intake pipes existance , you can swap the pan from a 4g64 galant,stratus coupe etc. which has a shorter dipstick and tube...
You absolutely need a trans cooler , it is a typical issue with all auto transmissions that they get hot from excess load , and when they do they burn up fluid,clutches etc...I'd suggest a b&m style mounted on the driver side then remove the bumper/foglight opening cover ...
the ecu flash programming is intimidating at 1st but you've stared at the mutIII logger at mitsu for many years its not all that difficult to figure out
for the injectors dont go lower then 440cc's even at 5psi theres more then enough air produced from the turbo to make it impossible to tune it right , its better to be over fueled then under fueled , its alot easier to replace a fouled o2 then it is to replace burned and shattered pistons ...dont use an FMU its a bandaid fix for the right parts ...
get yourself a 1995 eclipse gsx fuel pump , its shorter then a walbro and fits the assembly without mods and also flows better and more then stock, I believe it was 180-190 lph more then enough for the limited boost you can run on the stock 4g94 rods
all piping from the 8/9 evo fits even on the auto lancer but the dipstick tube will be the bain of the intake pipes existance , you can swap the pan from a 4g64 galant,stratus coupe etc. which has a shorter dipstick and tube
...You absolutely need a trans cooler , it is a typical issue with all auto transmissions that they get hot from excess load , and when they do they burn up fluid,clutches etc...I'd suggest a b&m style mounted on the driver side then remove the bumper/foglight opening cover ...
the ecu flash programming is intimidating at 1st but you've stared at the mutIII logger at mitsu for many years its not all that difficult to figure out
Great information here! I will stick with the GSX fuel pump and bigger injectors, better be safe than sorry! I totally didnt remember the auto trans cooler, thats an excellent idea and a must i think, i dont want to ruin my trans! Would it be possible to cut the stock dipstick on the auto trans, or maybe bend it out of the way a bit to get the IC piping to work? Also how do i get the 02 sensor to reach all the way to where the o2 housing is below the mani?!
Last edited by Mitsu.kid.02; Jul 13, 2010 at 07:28 AM.
Jul 13, 2010, 10:02 AM
#60
I read up on the emanage....and it does appear to allow for increasing injector size, but takes a special harness, does the kit you're planning to buy have that harness? If not, did the previous owner get the injector size scaled via a tactrix cable? Just my initial impression of the emanage is "eh" because I've seen what the ecuflash and evoscan software can do with a tactrix cable...and it's a crap ton. I can't believe the potential that gets unlocked, and can't see anyone doing anything else to get their lancer rolling on boost. I mean, even the full blown AEM entire ECU doesn't seem like it can do much more than 100% customization via the lancer ecu.
Yeah, like you said, better safe than sorry...you don't wanna run out of fuel at 6000 rpms with 7psi of boost going, sounds like a recipe for disaster.
Yeah, like you said, better safe than sorry...you don't wanna run out of fuel at 6000 rpms with 7psi of boost going, sounds like a recipe for disaster.