03lances

iTrader: (14)

No the lean issue is not because you were in boost. That code is only set when your Long Term Fuel Trim (LTFT) is maxed out and your short term (STFT) is also maxed out meaning the ecu has reached its maximum compensation it can do to keep the car at stoich. The fuel trims only adjust in closed loop (ie cruising). More or less same thing you got up top there just explained a little different

ssg_petty_210

iTrader: (13)

From what I see, and judging by your video, you really really really need to get tuned. The tuner will be able to answer alot of your questions. From experience with past cars, once you turbo a car that isnt made to be turbo'd you are going to have rich or lean issues. Your best bet is to go and get the car tuned asap brother.

Mitsu.kid.02

iTrader: (3)

Gotcha, well my check engine light is actually out and today randomly i decided to check for some DTC's cuz my friend had a code reader handy, it could have been from a while back, who knows, I cant do a pull right now becase im waitig for a new BOV, the evo 8 nipple snapped off, so when i can boost and everything is hooked up, ill do some pulls and let you guys know whats happening!


Yeah true man, i know it needs to get tuned, the prob is i dont have the bigger injectors to throw in and tune with yet. I found out on my e-manage the TPS setting when throttle plate closed was set to 12% and only 97% when fully open, so i re-adjusted it to 0%(i forget the voltage) at closed and 100% (4.94V) open. It seems to be running a little bit better now. When i get the new BOV and everything is hooked up ill do some logging and tuning

Mitsu.kid.02

iTrader: (3)

When logging im limited in what i can log, out of these options what are the most important?

RPM
TOTAL AIRFLOW ADJUSTMENT (%)
TPS (%)
AIRFLOW METER INPUT (HZ)
AIRFLOW METER OUTPUT (HZ)
NORMAL INJECTOR DURATION (MSEC)
TOTAL INJECTOR DURATION (MSEC)
NORMAL INJECTOR DUTY CYCLE (%)
TOTAL INJECTOR DUTY CYCLE (%)
VOLUME EFFICIANCY (%)


Here is an example cruising at 2,299 RPM: STOCK 240CC INJECTORS, -1 AIRFLOW ADJUSTMENT AT 2,000 RPM. ZERO'D OUT MAPS (Except for the -1 airflow adjustment, it was set like that on the e-manage unit itself, im not sure what this does but im going to change it back to zero)

RPM (2,299)
TOTAL AIRFLOW ADJUSTMENT (-1)
TPS (31%)
AIRFLOW METER INPUT (375 HZ)
AIRFLOW METER OUTPUT (371 HZ)
NORMAL INJECTOR DURATION (10.4 M.SEC)
NORMAL INJECTOR DUTY CYCLE (19%)
TOTAL INJECTOR DURATION (10.4 M.SEC)
TOTAL INJECTOR DUTY CYCLE (19%)
VOLUME EFFICENCY (119%)
WIDEBAND READINGS FROM 14.2-15.4 SWEEPING
VACUUM WAS RIGHT AT 17

Mitsu.kid.02

iTrader: (3)

Pretty sure i figured out why the car was tripping a lean code at such low rpm..i think its cuz the evo 8 DV nipple broke off and when the car was high in vac it couldnt let out the extra air when i let off the gas, wich normally reads lean anyways, was prob more lean now. Thats why it was tripping around 1,800 RPMs and such low speed, prob cuz i was letting off the throttle! Im in the market for a tactrix cable now, so i can do some real tuning and logging!

03lances

iTrader: (14)

If your looking to get one off the FS section here take my advice and dont hesistate if you see one up for sale cause they go QUICK. I cant tell you how many times I looked and found one for sale and it would be sold within hours of the posting.

Mitsu.kid.02

iTrader: (3)

Yeah i belive you man, there pretty much in demand around here it seems, i deff want to get one. Im only at 60% injector duty cycle in boost so i know im not maxing out the injectors. Yesterday i had a strange problem, in parked gear, i would slowly push down the gas pedal and right at 1,400ish RPM's the car would chock, RPM's would fall from 1,400 to about 1000 or so and then climb back up to the 1,400 and keep doing this consistatly. It will do this at any RPM in parked gear, as long as i accelerate slowly up to the rpm and hold it. If i accelerate moderatly to fast, it wont do it. While it was doing this, when it would fall it read off the chart lean, then when it would climb back up it read 13-14 AFR, if i were to hold it there for extended periods of time, the guage didnt even read, too lean. I took off the air filter cleaned the MAF and checked connections and vac lines, all looked ok. I pulled the plugs they look completly normal wear gapped at .26. I cleaned the air filter and installed and the car just started choking, i removed the air filter and the car idles fine, then while the car was running tried to re-install the filter and car stalled. and with the filter off, i cant get it to repeat the same problem that happened before. Bad air filter??

Mitsu.kid.02

iTrader: (3)

Prob fixed, car runs sweet, i logged some data and im only using 61% of my injector duty cycle in boost, so i think stock injectors are safe for 5 PSI. i did some adjusting today, AFR are in the 12's in boost, ill do some more tomorro and hopefully they will get down the the 11's

Mitsu.kid.02

iTrader: (3)

Update******* TURBO BLOWN.. so even at 5 psi, car tuned the turbo gave out...lasted one full week :-( The compressor fins have shaft play of about 1/4 inch or more up and down and side to side... the turbo was leaking so much oil i pulled off the intake the the compressor wheel was dripping oil, the intake was covered and the car was burning oil, blue smoke...so im i the market for another 16g if anyone has one :-( would it make sense to send out the turbo to get re-built? or should i just look for a new one? this suckssss

JRR

iTrader: (19)

just rebuild it. mitsu turbos are easy to rebuild!!!

Mitsu.kid.02

iTrader: (3)

Is there a guide on how to do this, or do i ship it out to someone to re-build? If i can re-build it myself, what parts will i need??

steven121

iTrader: (27)

I havent had a problem yet but how can you tell if your turbo is blown? and what are the signs

03lances

iTrader: (14)

****ty man sorry to hear that. How many miles were on that turbo when you got it? I had (or at least was told) 13k on mine when I got it. Almost been a year and just checked it the other day, no shaft play at all.

JRR

iTrader: (19)

get a GOOD set of snap ring pliers first (one that have a "twist" action lever so you can clamp and hold the snap ring that holds the coldside on), but they sell them all over on ebay and your local mitsu dealer would be able to order you the parts as well...

first sign usually is oil consumption, and a "squeaky" turbo is a bad turbo. just as a saftey measure usually once every 3 months or so ill take off the intake and test for shaft play....


turbos are one of those things that are hit or miss. i have always been skeptikal of use turbos. if i have the money id buy new and spend the extra money for my insurance that i know EXACTLY how that turbo was broken in and used...

MurphDurph

iTrader: (44)

im not exactly sure how many miles were on the turbo, approx. 13k i believe, 10k when i bought it and i only ran it hard once and i never saw past 5psi (occasional spike to 7). had no shaft play or leaks since.

damn that sucks man...were you hitting boost when it happened? ive never blown a turbo, so im trying to get a good idea what to look/hear for.