Mitsu.kid.02

iTrader: (3)

Hmmm... maybe ill take off the MBC then, i always thought if you put a vac line from the WGA to the J-pipe it limits the boost to the lowest rating on the spring, 5psi? hmmmm.. Also what are you guys getting on cold days for oil PSI? Mines about 98PSI on startup with 10w30 conventional castrol oil. it takes about 10-12 min at idle to go down to about 50 PSI or so. While on the highway at around 70 MPH and 3k rpms its about 80PSI+ and normal crusing on the streets at 40 MPH or so and about 1,500-2000 rpms its anywhere from 40-60PSI. It seems like i have high oil pressure, just want to see what you guys are getting?

steven121

iTrader: (27)

not sure about oil pressure so im pretty much riding dirty...

your MBC install your j pipe goes across from the screw point, and your wastegate adapter goes to the nozzel that is at a 90 degree angle. Never mess with your vac lines or try to install your mbc between there. stick to the way its always been unless someone has ***** and tries it on there car. I personnally wouldnt do it because A.) I dont know what would happen and B.) let someone else try it and screw up so you dont do it lol....

when I installed mine I made 14 psi on accident and it backfired like crazy probably because my FPR. But make sure you unscrew it all the way.

the 5-10 spring. heres how I think it works. Without an mbc you go straight to 4-5 psi. if you install an mbc I think it goes to a certain boost but then tapers down to 10 psi at a certain rpm not for certain but when I boost to 12 It tapers down to at least 9-10 at higher rpms.

Mitsu.kid.02

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for your input steven! Alright ill go and make sure mine is set up correctly. Previously i had mine set up and routed through my vac line but i fixed that and ill make sure everything is hooked up the way you just said. Damn dood 14PSI? i would have been freaking out! I get so nervouse sometimes going WOT at 6 PSI sometimes lol prob because everything is stock really. Ill make sure its down all the way. I cant really boost at all until i get a new BOV because my current BOV is not working at all now and it surges and i dont want to ruin the turbo, so i have to wait till after christmas to buy a new HKS, i loved the one i had, i think i broke it becuase it popped off once and i think i broke something inside. I can boost but i have to "slowly" decreese the throttle into vac, so i can avoid surge!

Mitsu.kid.02

iTrader: (3)

Hey steven i just now checked my routing and i had it hooked up backwards from how you just told me, is that bad?? i had a line from the nipple thats on the 90* angle going to the j-pipe, and the nipple directly across from the adjustment dial going to the forge WGA, I re routed the lines as you described and switched them around. You have a forge unos MBC also?

03lances

iTrader: (14)

That is strange before I installed my mbc and running the vac line from the j pipe to the forge I had a strictly 5psi limit it never rose above that until I installed my boost controller. Although now with mbc and my "5-10psi" spring as they say I have hit as high as 14 pounds. As it stands now I hit 12psi and hold it to redline.

Mitsu.kid.02

iTrader: (3)

Thats wat i was thinking, and same here, when i had my vac line from the forge WGA connected to the j-pipe, i had about 4 PSI, 5 psi max.

03lances

iTrader: (14)

What bov are you going to get? I have been using the stock metal IX bov for a year now and works great

steven121

iTrader: (27)

Yeah bro just get the evo ix bov spend the money to insure quality. You might have had surge because of the mbc turbo can't get rid of all the boost

Mitsu.kid.02

iTrader: (3)

If i installed it wrong your saying it could have surged the turbo? Awe man well i re-installed the MBC the correct way now. I loved the HKS cuz i had no probs VTA and it was SUPER LOUD all my buddys loved hearing me coming down the road. I tried to run VTA with an evo 8 BOV but i had stalling probs because its a diverter valve and not a BOV so the valve is partially open at idle, with the HKS its always closed at idle. Maybe ill get another HKS and an evo 9 valve as well.

steven121

iTrader: (27)

how did you plug up the hole with the intake tube? I thought you had to run speed density in order to run a BOV? if thats the case Ill just get me a BOV and run a hks myself or a greddy rs

Mitsu.kid.02

iTrader: (3)

I plugged up the hole on the evo intake with the stock evo 8 DV and clamped it there. I had NO stalling problems with my HKS SSQV, alot of people will tell you diffrent, like they stall in between shifts, but im automatic, so my car shifts without closing the throttle plate, so i get no rich mixture and stalling problems. Gaurenteed you will run rich when you close the TB and the BOV goes off, but mine read 11.3 for literally like a sec then back to all the way lean (cutting injectors when slowing down) But i had no problems. I might be cautious if your 5-speed, reason being is the rich mixture when you let off the gas to shift, may cause the car to stumble or stall. But you wont have any idle problems as it stays completly shut at idle wich is cool, and its really sensitive to low boost, so i never had surge with it, it even blew off in vacuum. Running speed density if you have a BOV is still the best thing to do.

The speed density system is best described as a calculation procedure used by the electronic engine control(ECC) module that invovles predetermined operating parameter values, volumetric efficiency tables, premeasured airflow-through-the-engine values,and the known volume of fuel delivery required per combustion event for a single cylinder. Management of fuel and spark functions is based mainly on a predetermined range of preprogrammed data and also on real-time feedback data from an array of sensors.
The "speed" signal is based on the calculated volume of a single cylinder. The "density" signal is a function of temperature and pressure measurments. To determine an engine's fuel delivery requirements, the speed density system infers airflow from several monitored sources, including engine speed(in RPM), intake manifold absolute pressure(MAP, to determine load), manifold absolute temperature(MAT), throttle position, the oxygen content of the exhaust, engine coolant temperature and battery voltage.
There is no airflow sensor(airflow meter) in the speed density system. Signals form the manifold absolute pressure sensor relate operating conditions that are translated into relationships(engine-speed-to-load-to-throttle position, for example). The EEC then compares this data to ideal data curves based on the engine's volumetric effciency. The speed density computer is preprogrammed for the desired fuel, ignition, and EGR characteristics, and it makes continious(metering, timing, and cycling) adjustments based on those pre-mapped relationships.

HornstarBU

iTrader: (7)

I'm not gonna quote everything, but you all know what you just read. My spring is the 5-10psi spring, and that's exactly what it is....5-10psi depending on the car, how well the thing builds pressure, how nice and smooth the Arm on the WGA is, and how tightly you screw in the piece that connects to the flapper's pivot arm. You can tighten that arm a turn or 2, put some preload on it, and build up more pressure...just a minor adjustment will make that 2psi change. I did might where it would lay straight down onto the arm, then gave it 3 turns so I had to tug it ever so slightly to fit it on, so that the flapper wouldn't rattle around.

As far as VTA, the things that can cause problems are bov's that are "open" at idle, so that it's like a vacuum leak. You know of your intercooler tubing pops off, then the car runs rich because more air is being metered than actually gets in or whatever, well...a VTA will do that. Some Bov's have anti stall kits, some have spring adjustment so you can get them exactly right at idle, so they are just barely closed....Mitsu probably either got lucky on the adjustment, or spent a little time checking it.

Basically, idle the car, watch the lil piston or whatever, and loosen it until it opens, then tighten it back 1 or 2 turns, and you can run pretty well with a VTA bov (total hearsay from friends I've met in the past month or 2). Speed Density is the other option.

Also, I don't know where you stand with the MAF, but I talked to the l2.....gt or whatever fella, who knows a lot about MAF's, and I think adjusting MAF compensation is going to make my idle issues go away with the Evo MAF....but won't try until xmas is over. Tell me how your swap goes though? cool.

Oh, and I think Evo9 bov's are cool, but if I had to do it all over...I'd have not bought the 8 that I broke, or the 9, or the 9 fuel pump that didn't fit, and would have just spent all that on one of those syncronic bovs.

Mitsu.kid.02

iTrader: (3)

The HKS BOV does NOT stay open at idle. Its impossible for the HKS SSQV to be open at an idle as it works completly different from normal push type BOV's, unlike other BOV's this one does not have ANY ADJUSTMENT, again, because of the way its designed. Trust me, the thing was awesome, i think i broke it when it popped off [SIZE=2]my vac at idle is 22.



***this picture diag shows an adjustment screw on the back side, however the newer HKS SSQV do not come with an adjustment screw***
The HKS Super Sequential Blow-Off Valve (SSQV) is a dual stage pull-type relief valve. Unlike typical push type blow-off valves, the SSQV will not leak under any level of boost because the boost pressure in chamber "C" keeps the valve closed against its seat (Diagram 1). The SSQV releases excess boost when there is a pressure alteration in chambers "A & B", not by the rate of boost pressure or vacuum in the line. This ensures a quick valve response and complete closure during idle. The HKS SSQV incorporates both a small primary valve for ultra quick activation, and a larger secondary valve for additional discharge capacity. The SSQV is engineered to initially open the small primary valve at light throttle and load conditions (Diagram 2), then sequentially opens the secondary valve for additional relief capacity under high boost and load conditions (Diagram 3).

Mitsu.kid.02

iTrader: (3)

Are the RC370cc injectors high impendence injectors? i can just wire these in right, no ohm resistors needed?

Flow Rate - CC's:
370 CC's / MIN @ 43.5 PSI saturated injectors

Flow Rate - LB's:
35 LBS / HR @ 43.5 PSI

Resistance:
12.5 Ohms @ 68 F

Voltage:
8-15 Volts, nominal 13.5 Volts

Amperage:
1.0 Amps

Pressure:
Min 30 PSIG / Max 100 PSIG


here are the specs on the injectors, i just want to be SURE i can just wire these into my injector circut. Also there are three different clips available (to clip from the RC injectors into the stock injector clips) honda, bosch, or denso. Im pretty sure we use the bosch right?

HornstarBU

iTrader: (7)

I know the WRX injectors are 13ohm...but I dunno about the clip type, I thought it was denso...but I am prolly wrong.