autos are good to about 250hp.. (depends on abuse levels of course)
all in how u drive apparently.. mine held together through tuning and 4 high boost passes before motor gave out.. (325+hp) and trans is still good..

 

Although I hear the needle type boost gauges that most of us use can be off slightly I can say too that mine seems to sit spot on at 10psi

 

Well thanks good news, i eventually want to do a 5-spd swap but this is my DD, so i want to take things slow to start. Are you with stock internals ar 10PSI? When i get a feel for good tuning anf can get my AFR set at 11.5 in boost, ill prob get the bigger injectors and pump to be safe and set it for 10

 

Awesome, thanks for the info about the trans man

 

No, The j-pipe is actually shipped out and on its way, and i hope it fits, But ill update as soon as i get it and test fit it to the turbo and let you know

 

yup still on stock internals

 

cool, couple question! How long have you been at 10 PSI, is this the PSI you started at with the initial build? How do you drive your car? Floor it, or slowly work your way into boost? Are you using ECU flash for tuning? I currently have the e-manage blue, but i need to learn how to start tuning so i dont go BOOM when i install the turbo very soon

 

03lance started out around 5 psi, and worked his way up so he didnt blow his motor lol, you basically psuh the car till the knock lights come on and you log it so you can keep taking away timing to get the car to run good, after that you can raise timing as well as afr to combat knock and make more power but its only recommended if your tune is safe, ecuflash is used on majority of the cars here on the website, bes way to tune is to watch videos or read the merlins evo 8 tuning guide. The link is in my thread around page 40 and up I think not quite sure

 

Ok cool thanks for the info on that!

 

i started at 7 then went to around 9 with the boost controller then tuned it a bit better and got it to about 11 or so then i did the evo ecu and i topped out at 15. so it was gradual for me but the engine "can" handle 7psi as log as fuel is there and you dont go super lean.


josh

 

The only thing that worrys me is the rods in the engine, Can they handle 7 PSI reliably? I drive about 48 highway miles a day, RPMs are usually right around 2,600 RPM, will my car stay out of boost at that RPM? When the turbo is up and running i plan on saving up money to buy a used 4g94 to build the motor rods/pistions/head gasket/ bolts etc so i can up the boost to 15 and be confident, this gives me time to learn how to tune and experience the whole turbo situation. but as of right now Basically what im shooting for is mon-fri install all items i can before the turbo (i.e; intercooler, mock piping, boost/EGT/AFR gauge, slim fans, install ATM cooler, Gather and organize all tools/ parts, ready oil, filter, spark plugs gapped, coolant etc, so that when it comes time to intall the initial turbo all ill have to do is tap the oil pan, run the vac/coolant lines, install plugs etc, and so i get a feel for how all the parts come off my car so there is minimal guess/ modifications done on the weekend i install the turbo so i can get it done over the weekend. After the turbo is on the car and i triple check everything and the car is running, i need to get to work on monday! So this is why i ask is it possible to have the turbo on and running but be able to drive to work at 2,600 RPMS Un-tunned. If thats possible to drive the car as long as its not in boost, then i will each day tune the car after work. If someone could share with me a base map for 5 PSI that would be great for extra comfort, i dont car if im running rich i just need the car its my main transportation use. The only fuel supply ill be doing is 330cc injectors and stock pump and FPR as JRR seems to be fine at 15 PSI on stock fuel requirements with a good tune, i think the stock pump and FPR should be ok with a base tune at 5 psi right? All i really need now is the wideband and tactrix cable, i have the e-manage wired up now but i would rather use the tactrix ECUflash since most you guys here are farmilliar with this, and also as i cant log "knock" with the e-manage i dont want to blow up the car. The most i could do with the e-manage is the correction it does for the injectors "240cc to 330cc= correction factor" and mess with the injector map and ignition map, but thats all i can really do with it from what i understand. So if someone would be kind enough to share there base map with me so when i get the turbo in i can re-flash the base map for 5 PSI with 330 injectors and log and tune from there i would seriously appreciate it! Thanks guys
-Tony

 

wow thats a lot to read.... use some some spaces in between...lol

anywho...

as long as you stay out of boost the car will run fine. but if yur doing the injectors make sure you find all the latencies and stuff so they are correct or at least close.

personally...sell the greddy and the injectors and head to nasioc and get some used wrx 440's. they will make your life easier in the long run....trust me i had an rrm 5 th injector setup for a while and ya i worked but when i went with the 440's it was so much easier


i did my build in 25hrs total obviously minus tuning but id did mine over labor day weekend a few years back.

josh

 

sorry had to

 

ive been at 10 psi for about over a year now and i do use ecuflash and i did start around 5-7 till i was able to tune it for 10 a week or so after install

i do both i go slow in to boost all the way to 10 psi and then theres time ill just wot pulls and the rods can handle 7 psi but it all depends on condition of engine and tune that would determine if they will last

 

when you have a boost gauge thats the way you can tell if your in boost or not, most of the time when you accelerate hard thats when you hit boost