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4G94 vs 4G64

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Old Oct 14, 2011, 04:12 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by burner67
since this is kinda on the engine build topic if your going to put rods in the 94 what would be better k1 or speed corps
same thing, speed corps just sells k1....the alternative is pauter rods, which are thicker for sure...more expensive too.
Old Oct 15, 2011, 10:56 PM
  #32  
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k1 tech told me thier rods can withstand up to 1000 hp, he said its not the rods its the heat build up and your tune. I think im just going t build the 4G94 with 8:8:1 compression it would be a simple build since im just building the bottom block. I think im going to attempt to be one of the few with a 400hp 4G94. It would be cheaper anyways to do so.
Old Oct 16, 2011, 07:18 AM
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Sort of, always cheaper than evo block I think, but factor in LSD and maybe another 1k for a" headjob" since valve side might restrict you at 400.
Old Oct 16, 2011, 11:29 PM
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shoot to be at the 300 mark would u only need pistons and rods? what about raising the redline if you had it built
Old Oct 17, 2011, 05:55 AM
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with such a long stroke. u cant really raise the redline. anything beyond 6700 ur stroke/rod speed is so fast not much u can do to allow it to spin up any faster. it will do it.. but thats whenthings will start to fail..

And k1 rods they make for our cars are rated for about 400ft/trq, not 1000, k1 does make 1000hp capable rods for surtain applications, but not ours. benefit to k1 rods is that there within a few grams of stock rods in weight. pauter rods are heavier which can have some effect on ur crank and damage to bearings at higher rpms
Old Oct 17, 2011, 10:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Demon_ni2
with such a long stroke. u cant really raise the redline. anything beyond 6700 ur stroke/rod speed is so fast not much u can do to allow it to spin up any faster. it will do it.. but thats whenthings will start to fail..

And k1 rods they make for our cars are rated for about 400ft/trq, not 1000, k1 does make 1000hp capable rods for surtain applications, but not ours. benefit to k1 rods is that there within a few grams of stock rods in weight. pauter rods are heavier which can have some effect on ur crank and damage to bearings at higher rpms
Is my info incorrect demon?

I thought the 4g94 had 95mm of stroke on it and a 81mm piston while the 4g64 has 100mm of stroke and a 86.5mm piston.

I've seen plenty of 4g64's reach even 8500rpm or better 7500rpm shouldn't even be a problem. Its pretty common to stroke a 4g63 and get 100mm of stroke and a 85mm of piston bore for 2.3l of displacement and still reach 7500rpm on it.

If you guys are seeing bearing failure perhaps another force is at work here like heat and clearance issues. Perhaps it would be achievable to run up to the 7500rpm or better mark with a mod to clearances say a bit looser with a thicker oil to compensate.

See here for the craziest 4g64 motor i can think of.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...stock-ecu.html

Last edited by RoadSpike; Oct 17, 2011 at 10:56 AM.
Old Oct 17, 2011, 01:46 PM
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DOT....DOT.......DOT.......45psi of boost. That really blows

I think maybe we could get it rolling on some higher RPM with, like he said, looser clearances and thicker oil. What springs fit the 4g94? Do the same ones as the g63 fit?
Old Oct 17, 2011, 03:09 PM
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I think ur info is correct, but people dont use 4g64 cranks, they use evo 100mm cranks in the 4g64s with long rods for the higher revving 8500-10k motors

People say u can still do 7500-8500 on stock 4g64 crank.. but um.. i donno howmany people actually do that. the two 2.4 guys ive been around only revved to 7k.
and Smaller clearances and thicker oil is wrong. the less clearance, the thinner the oil u want to properly oil all surfaces.
Old Oct 17, 2011, 04:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Demon_ni2
I think ur info is correct, but people dont use 4g64 cranks, they use evo 100mm cranks in the 4g64s with long rods for the higher revving 8500-10k motors

People say u can still do 7500-8500 on stock 4g64 crank.. but um.. i donno howmany people actually do that. the two 2.4 guys ive been around only revved to 7k.
and Smaller clearances and thicker oil is wrong. the less clearance, the thinner the oil u want to properly oil all surfaces.
The common evo stroker kit is just a stock 4g64 crank at least the ones I've seen. Evo cranks don't come in 100mm stroke only the stock 88mm stroke. It costs extra to get a custom crank from eagle or someone else so people usually opt for the stocker mitsu crank. I have seen some pretty expensive odd size strokers out there for the 2.2L kit which uses some custom made crankshaft.

Also on the same note that I do know that some cranks are cast and some are forged I would highly recommend getting a forged crank becuase cast ones tend to crack. Its usually easy to tell a cast crank vs a forged one from mitsu the cast ones have a thin and sharply raised cast line while a forged one tends to have a wide ground down forge mark. The video with that 1053whp was on a OEM mitsu crank according to MAP's website.

I didn't say tighter i said looser clearances.
Old Oct 17, 2011, 05:57 PM
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Ah.. ya i cant read.. ive been trying to figure out the 2.4 setups for a while on what might actually be the best drag setup on a fwd setup. kinda leaning towards a straight 2.4 and not one of the destroker 2.1 or 2.2s. figured a 47r + a 2.4 beyond 2nd gear would be alot more fun to play with since traction is gunna suck regaurdless in 1st n 2nd on both setups. even at low psi.. the top end possible power i think completely outweights the highrpm possibilities of the destrokers, even though the destrokers are flowing more air at redline then the 2.4s. trq will shine through better on top end on the 2.4 i think.
Old Oct 17, 2011, 10:23 PM
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Demon you seem to have gone through your share of motors since you mentioned bearing failure what have you seen rod bearings or main bearing fail first?

I'm thinking if its the rod bearings the likely culprit is clearances and the oil delivery system. Perhaps the pump is not up to par on higher rpm or the clearances and heat just tighten to a level no pump is adequate.

If its the main journal it could be the same or something like the old chevy's where you would get the bearing caps to move around a bit at rpm so you had to do something like a 4 bolt splayed setup.
Old Oct 17, 2011, 10:35 PM
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my last motor i lost a rod bearing(froma 7k full pull crossing the 1/4 mile line), two before that were both rods out the side of the block. never checked the crank bearings on the old motors, but i could see those posing more a risk with high revs on stock main bolts

actually sitll waiting to find out from my engine builder on the current motor. hopin he says its just a rod bearing and the cranks ok still.. if so.. ill be back running in a week or two. hes had the motor for a week now, hasnt even touched it yet. i checked it all myself(without actually takig it all out), didnt see anything noticeably damaged or to much play(thatswhy i didnt remove them) and took it straight to him. im thinkin it could be a stretched main bolt/bearing failure this time from free rev to 8k but no telling right now.

i should really start a , "what happens to a 4g94 when u do this " thread. cuz ive broke more things then i can even list, mostly from doing stupid stuff.. LOL

Last edited by Demon_ni2; Oct 17, 2011 at 10:40 PM.
Old Oct 18, 2011, 09:14 AM
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Interesting lots of rod failure then.

They all come with ARP hardware or do the manufacturers just cheap out on that?

What kind of oil capacity does the base lancer have as well? Any oil cooling?
Old Oct 18, 2011, 09:41 AM
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manufacture cheaps out on factory parts, 3.8qt, and no oil cooling.
Old Oct 18, 2011, 09:42 AM
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Originally Posted by RoadSpike
Interesting lots of rod failure then.

They all come with ARP hardware or do the manufacturers just cheap out on that?

What kind of oil capacity does the base lancer have as well? Any oil cooling?
I hold 4 qts, and there isn't an oil cooler on the manual trans....I kinda think it would be sweet to add one though. As far as ARP bolts, you mean like when you buy aftermarket rods?


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