Is this true about turbo automatics?...
#17
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Originally posted by imapunkclaimer
Race shifting, if you dont let your foot off the gas at all you will not drop in rpms.
I find some automatic transmissions to shift slow for some reason and in my friends cars i catch it when its not evem in a gear and it just jolts. whats up with that?
Race shifting, if you dont let your foot off the gas at all you will not drop in rpms.
I find some automatic transmissions to shift slow for some reason and in my friends cars i catch it when its not evem in a gear and it just jolts. whats up with that?
#18
I've also heard (from auto Supra owners) that an automatic transmission can easily hold and build boost at the line by holding in the brake and revving the engine to desired RPMs... specifically holding it in the car's powerband.
And I always thought most drag cars were auto because the upshifts come to darn fast to be able to properly and consistently get it down... must be why all F1 machines and the like have that snazzy sequential shifter system
And I always thought most drag cars were auto because the upshifts come to darn fast to be able to properly and consistently get it down... must be why all F1 machines and the like have that snazzy sequential shifter system
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Originally posted by HobieKopek
Dropping in RPMs and being in gear are two totally different things. Automatics simply shift faster. They may FEEL like they're shifting slow, but likely what you're noticing is just the different gearing.
Dropping in RPMs and being in gear are two totally different things. Automatics simply shift faster. They may FEEL like they're shifting slow, but likely what you're noticing is just the different gearing.
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Thanks guys.
I drive a 03 AT Lancer OZ and I was contemplating on wether I should even bother with a Turbo upgrade or SuperCarger, and just go with buying an RSX Type-S but Im pretty sure Imma stick with the Supercharger and Turbo idea I knew that a turbo spools up faster in an AT but I am also told and have seen the WHP and TQ numbers and obviously the MT is higher than the AT. So Ive been skeptical about it.
I drive a 03 AT Lancer OZ and I was contemplating on wether I should even bother with a Turbo upgrade or SuperCarger, and just go with buying an RSX Type-S but Im pretty sure Imma stick with the Supercharger and Turbo idea I knew that a turbo spools up faster in an AT but I am also told and have seen the WHP and TQ numbers and obviously the MT is higher than the AT. So Ive been skeptical about it.
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the auto shouldnt boost any faster than an manual, especially in a race situation. In daily driving the fact that the car is kept in a different place in the power band and the fact it does have 4 gears and not 5 MIGHT make a difference, but there is more power loss to account for. As far as shift times for the "sporty" or "manumatic" transmission, they actually had a LONG thread about this in the 3G eclipse webring because a company called level 10 performance has an upgrade kit for th Eclipse "sporty" and they gave EXACT or NEAR EXACT shift times through testing. And the time changes were significant. But there were no auto's shifting at .005. I am sorry but that is SO DAMN FAST. That is 5 one thousandsths of a second. NOPE! If I had the energy I would run that search again, bu tright noew I am tired and I am going to bed. Maybe tomorrow.
#24
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werd, so how do we upgrade our transmissions (automatics) to withstand the added power (Im looking for 300whp myself). Cryo-Treated parts? Tranny Cooler? Ect.
#25
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Upgrade your torque converter. I dont' think anyone's come close enough to running enough HP to know whether or not a transmission cooler would be worth it.
AT's do not spool a turbine faster. They do not allow it to spin down as much when the transmission shifts. There is a difference between the two.
AT's do not spool a turbine faster. They do not allow it to spin down as much when the transmission shifts. There is a difference between the two.
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Hobie is right. the torque converters is one of the first things to upgrade.
Level 10 is a well respected company and what they do is they take your stock converter, cut it open and replace the bearings and such, change the fin angles in the stator and then furnice braize the fins on the rest of the converter.
this will increase your stall speed (so you will launch at a higher rpm) and increase stregnth.
With the increase in stall speed you will heat your fluid faster. this means you are more likely to get into the temperatures where tranny fluid breaks down. There are many sites that detail what happens but here is a quick overview:
Normal temps ATF lasts for 100,000 miles
10-15 over ATF lasts for 50,000
20-30 over ATF lasts for 25,000
40-50 over ATF lasts for 12,500
See the trend? A cooler is a good idea on a higher performance car. Call me cautious but a $40 dollar cooler seems alot cheaper than a failed tranny or more frequent fluid changes (for your fun fact file I have already changed my fluid once at 24,000 and it was totally smoked).
Level 10 is a well respected company and what they do is they take your stock converter, cut it open and replace the bearings and such, change the fin angles in the stator and then furnice braize the fins on the rest of the converter.
this will increase your stall speed (so you will launch at a higher rpm) and increase stregnth.
With the increase in stall speed you will heat your fluid faster. this means you are more likely to get into the temperatures where tranny fluid breaks down. There are many sites that detail what happens but here is a quick overview:
Normal temps ATF lasts for 100,000 miles
10-15 over ATF lasts for 50,000
20-30 over ATF lasts for 25,000
40-50 over ATF lasts for 12,500
See the trend? A cooler is a good idea on a higher performance car. Call me cautious but a $40 dollar cooler seems alot cheaper than a failed tranny or more frequent fluid changes (for your fun fact file I have already changed my fluid once at 24,000 and it was totally smoked).