Megadeth2118

iTrader: (7)

Ok I'm piecing together a custom turbo kit for my 2004 Lancer OZ Rally. So far I've purchased (on ebay) a T25 Garrett Turbo with o2 Housing ($150) and a Toyo Intercooler from an Evo 8 ($170). For my next steps I'm looking at getting a turbo manifold for a 4g94, some kind of fuel management system, piping for turbo and intercooler, blow-off valve, and eventually a new exhaust system. For now I'm only looking to run about 5-6 psi just to keep it safe with stock injectors and such until I can upgrade them later on. (I know an intercooler really isn't required for running such low boost, but I went ahead and got it since the price was right and for the extra safety.)

I've been researching for some time now and I will continue to for probably another couple of months until I can purchase every part that I need.

If you would please submit your opinions on which parts you would recommend and any advice you could give. Also if there are any parts I left out please submit that as well. I would really appreciate it!!

Thanks!

Boni

iTrader: (3)

walbro 255 lph fuel pump or a 190 lph pump (for higher boost you will need the 255 in the future)

some type of piggyback ecu (check out www.roadracemotorsports.com)

boost/ air-fuel/ and egt guage

you will need a vortech FMU which you can also purchase from road/race

that is all i can think of right now...

HobieKopek

iTrader: (8)

AFR + narrowband sensor = effectively useless. AFR gauges are just window dressing on stock O2 sensors. They're accurate to something like 1.4 AFR...meaning you could think you're running a 13.5AFR under boost and you're really running a 14.9...I think that's a corner you could easily cut unless you put in a wideband.

Sounds like you're well on your way. I wouldn't have chosen the T25 (kinda obviously since I didn't chose the T25 ) but if you wish to have a more efficient turbo later on at least you can easily swap it out for a T28. Good luck, and keep us posted. I'm curious what you'll pick for fuel management and a manifold.

Megadeth2118

iTrader: (7)

Thanks for all the input. Hopefully within the next few weeks I'll have all the components I need to get started. In the meantime I'd really appreciate any advice anyone may have concerning this project. (Especially things NOT to do when installing a turbo ) I'll keep you posted!

Boeturbolancer

iTrader: (26)

Definately a Wideband is needed... maybe just get the AEM EUGO. It is actually priced very decentely compared to other widebands. I'd try to find another stock manifold and cut off the flange. You should contact some mirage dealers like RPW to see if you can just buy the turbo manifold. You may be able to find it by searching but i doubt it. Most had to have one custom made for around 300-400 bucks. Good luck.

Megadeth2118

iTrader: (7)

Ok so far I've got my Turbo and intercooler. What brands would you guys recommend on these products I will be purchasing shortly?

Turbo Timer
BOV
Fuel Pressure Regulator
Gauges

And where would be the best place to get some oil lines and custom piping for my turbo and intercooler? (Including downpipe)

I've found www.jcwhitney.com for pipes but wasn't sure if maybe there was somewhere that actually had complete pipe kits for a reasonable price.

Thanks!

Boni

iTrader: (3)

Best turbo timer I have seen is the greddy one. BOV either get a crushed 1g or a greddy type-s. the greddy will sound the best though IMO. You dont need an FPR...just get the Vortech FMU. For guages just boost and egt are most necessary in the start. later you can add that wideband aem thing that boe and hobie are talkin about but that is for more serious tuning i think. i dont know where u can get pipes...just dont goto a muffler shop and get some cause that will look like crap! lol, good luck.

Megadeth2118

iTrader: (7)

What ratio FMU should I get? I've seen 8:1, 10:1, and 12:1. And what would be your recommended amount of boost on stock internals? Thanks!

Boni

iTrader: (3)

stock internals can take 9-10 psi with proper tuning (some type of piggyback ecu and bigger injectors). 10+ and u need pistons. 12+ u need rods.

HobieKopek

iTrader: (8)

12:1. Internals aside, I don't know why you'd put your stock injectors under such heavy open cycles. 80% or more IDC and you're running the risk of freezing an injector. Keep it at at 6psi IMO.

Bottom end is one thing, but I'd start to worry about valves and springs passed 10psi personally. With enough fuel you can keep the possibility of damaging a piston or rod to a minimum, but the valves will undergo a LOT of stress at those levels (especially at high RPMs).

Boeturbolancer

iTrader: (26)

yeah baby... break it all in right!!

Don't worry about injector cycle if you use fuel pressure to increase volume... your duty cycle in your car can never exceed the factory tollerance as long as you keep your stock ecu. All you are doing is making higher pressure in the fuel system so when the injectors open at their specific duty cycle more fuel is forced in during that period.

Good luck.

HobieKopek

iTrader: (8)

I'm not questioning the ability to get the fuel there, it's the high IDC that bothers me.

Boeturbolancer

iTrader: (26)

You CANNOT exceed 75% duty cycle on the stock ecu. IT IS IMPOSSIBLE!! It won't allow it. Thus you'll never be near any damaging conditions.

If the car was on the brink like you seem to think it wouldn't run for years like that... there are over 40 turbo kits out there that have over 2years of abuse on them... not a single issue yet dealing with injector duty cycle. Hook up the obd-2 scan tool and see for yourself.

Boosting 7psi non-intercooled the car is at 75% duty cycle... been thru this countless times before and will put it at an end once again.

MEGA... just keep doing what your doing you'll be fine. Just make sure you have a good FMU in the car... if you need more fuel just get a higher rating re-cal kit... 30bucks at summitracing.com

You'll figure it out. Be patient.

HobieKopek

iTrader: (8)

I can't find the thread I was looking for where Rob and I were arguing over IDC's (if I remember correctly we had a disagreement at the time and he was quite pissed at me), but I seem to remember a post claiming 80% or 85% IDC at 6psi on stock injectors. I'll keep digging, but if I can't find it iafter 15 minutes of searching, chances are I can't find it at all...

But in this thread aren't you stating you went well over 75% in your testing?
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...cer+duty+cycle

I'm getting conflicting info here, and I'm in no position to make first hand comments on IDC with the stock ECU, as mine's in the closet not the car. The experiences I've had with IDC have been in relation to the AEM EMS and with 440cc WRX injectors, not the stocks. Perhaps after my car's running again I can play around with different combinations, but, as much as I like you guys, I don't know if I'm going to want to tinker with my car that much and buy a data logger just for some numbers.

Boeturbolancer

iTrader: (26)

The ecu can adjust higher than 75% but it throws into an open loop fault when it does this. It can actually go to about 87% but not at a constant... this is just for adjustablility. To keep fuel trims at zero the car is suppossed to remain at the 75%level... if it needs the fuel it can go up to 87% or as low as around 43% but that's adjustability not limitation. When you exceed the limitation of 75% you throw the ECU into a fault... it will give you a CEL and usually say something like BANK 1 LEAN or OPEN LOOP FAULT Bank 1. These are letting you know that the car is running lean by the ECU's standards and out of it's adjustability.

This is where driveablity is so hard to tune when you up injector size and keep the stock ECU. The car needs to be in the range it wants or else you'll start hunting, faulting, and even the infamous P0300... multiple misfires. Trust me you can NEVER overdrive the injectors on a STOCK ECU. You'll just run out of adjustability... you'll be increasing the fuel in the tune but you won't be able to get any results. This is why the lancer has a lot of tuning issues... coupled with the fact that the ecu doesn't see any positive pressure past 1psi!