zlancer

iTrader: (1)

ok i got it! first my story. when they pulled my first dyno run the air/fuel ratio was 13.8:1 . man i was so pissed. then i realized i can adjust my fuel pressure so i did. and wham! 11.2:1 air fuel ratio...running rich!. well he set it up to 12.2:1 on average and this was my HP and torque.

158.4 wheel HP
165.1 wheel torque

amazing that i am gaining torque over HP. total opposite of a honda ). . also remember this is at only 5 psi. road race's kit is a 6 psi so mine might be a little below theirs but i'm boosting it up to 8 psi tomorrow since my motor is set running rich now.

zlancer

iTrader: (1)

also they felt my clutch slipping at higher RPM which you can see on the dyno sheet how it levels off at the right. new clutch will increase my dyno results.

WADADLIG_OZ

iTrader: (9)

Finally
Good job

Wadad

Braf

zlancer,

Those are impressive numbers. ‘Nuf respect for the project! Light as you probably are the car should be quick.

While you are tuning, here’s something to consider.

Eventually as you continue to increase boost, you will encounter detonation. When this happens, one option is to over fuel the cylinder charge. This can slow the rate of burn, making more useable energy. Under high boost rich is good.

Keep up the good work!!!

3K

iTrader: (9)

zlancer

Good job on your turbo!!! However even though you are running your set-up rich, like mentioned above you will encounter detonation with your stock compression ratio. Also your pistons and rings will not stand the higher combustion pressures associated with more boost. Probably your rods also if your internals are still stock. If they are not stock then boost away.

GSRX7

that is one option but the others are probaby better from an engineering standpoint. i'm not sure how high you want to turn up the boost, or how much money you have to spare, but if you are planning to try for big #s you will be better off lowering the compression ratio i assume you have already retarded the ignition timing that would probably be my first step to controlling detonation cause it is cheap to do. another alternative is to get a water injection system. they can sometimes do wonders for a high boost engine. this of course brings me to intercoolers i don't know if you have one or are planning to get one(i'm not familier with the kit you got) but besides being good for controlling the detonation they will also get you more power by condensing the intake charge. anyway if you already know all this that is cool i just thought i might be able to help if you didn't......oh also running rich will rob a little bit of power and steal your gas mileage and make it harder to pass emissions, but yes it will help prevent detonation if you don't have the money to do it another way


Tom

Mitsiman

Looking good Zlancer. The running rich was inevitable once you fitted the larger injectors but as you say leaning out with the FPR unit is a good plan.

Where you will really need to pay some attention now is recalibrating your fuel curve across the whole rpm range as it will be running rich everywhere and lots of power and acceleration being lost when running too rich across the board.

Also if you are looking for a clutch RPW has sourced now the carbon steel lightweight flywheels and performance clutches for these cars now so give us a call.

David THomas
www.rpw.com.au

zlancer

iTrader: (1)

well...i'm only increasing the boost 3 psi. not really a dramatic increase and i'm only going to run 8 psi to race. 5psi for the street. setting with my dual stage boost controller. i have an extreamly large front mount intercooler. anything over 8 psi would require a decompression plate. i'm not about to do that jus yet. i have other things to do to my car. but i am getting the j&s safeguard knock sensor for my car to control and mostly elimnate any chance for detonantion. its never going to be a race car unless some serious money is invested. so i'm not going to do that. jus making an all around car i guess.

also mad props goes out to Junior at BM Tranny and RPW and Vision Imports. you guys are great.

pjal84

I like the numbers Z. Looks like around 3600-3650K you're boostin' quite well. A relatively flat powerband once you're going. I'm diggin' it. Excellent work.

Link286XT

iTrader: (3)

very good, just about the number where i hope to be within the next two months. thanks for the look ahead =)

Link

Obsoleteasian

iTrader: (5)

I should hopefully be around that around christmas got most of the money saved up. Now i just have to move than buy it put it. wham .bam thank you mam. t he way i like it..

reddog

Looking Good Z. Are you gonna dyno it again when you raise the boost. I am curious to know what the numbers will look like at 8 psi.

zlancer

iTrader: (1)

well...you can figure you gain 7-10 hp per psi to the wheels. so about another 25 hp to the wheels can be easily expected.

bahamut

GSRX7 is correct. You better find aftermarket pistons to drop CR. Under heavy boost, your stock 9.5:1 CR will blow.

Ask any TC owners what's their CR . . . all of them will state as low as 7.7:1 to as high as 8.5:1 . . .

Mitsiman

Actually the Mitsubishi Mirage engine usign same type piston at 95 : 1 with a good intercooler and tuning we can run 12 psi with completely stock internals and a progamamble compute,r or 10 psi with a unichip with ignition control.

What this means is without ignition timing control or retard on boost don't go beyond 7 psi boost if you can only adjust fuel curves as pinging / ignition rattle cannot be cured by feeding more fuel.

All that does is run the car richer and causes ring wash on the bores, destroy's rings and ultimatly can still create an overheating problem on the pistons.

We have produced 160hp at the front wheels of a 1.8 mirage with our 300cc injectors, stock internals and 12 psi boost with a unichip computer.

David THomas
www.rpw.com.au