Kicker S8L7 repair advice needed
Sep 27, 2005, 10:46 AM
#1
Kicker S8L7 repair advice needed
My Kicker S8L7 hasn't been kicking much for a while now. It's been sitting in my room collecting dust instead of busting my eardrums 
It's the dual 4 ohm model so it's got 4 terminals obviously. Every terminal has an entry point under the cone(or whatever you call it). 1 of the wire cut at the base of the cone 
I can still see the wire going in but it's flat with the cone assy and well the other part of the wire is just hanging there on the terminal.
The best thing to do would most likely be changing the whole wire. But that involves taking the whole sub appart and I have no idea how to do it and how well that would turn out
Is there any other option, other than take it to a shop, that I could do to make the sub bump again?
It's the dual 4 ohm model so it's got 4 terminals obviously. Every terminal has an entry point under the cone(or whatever you call it). 1 of the wire cut at the base of the cone I can still see the wire going in but it's flat with the cone assy and well the other part of the wire is just hanging there on the terminal.The best thing to do would most likely be changing the whole wire. But that involves taking the whole sub appart and I have no idea how to do it and how well that would turn out
Is there any other option, other than take it to a shop, that I could do to make the sub bump again?
Sep 27, 2005, 11:02 AM
#4
I understand me too but a brand new ID 8 at local shops is ~ 65. Thats a smoking deal especially since it does everything extremely well. And get loud. On par with the 300 JL 8w7
Sep 27, 2005, 11:11 AM
#5
Originally Posted by David@Vishnu
I understand me too but a brand new ID 8 at local shops is ~ 65. Thats a smoking deal especially since it does everything extremely well. And get loud. On par with the 300 JL 8w7
Yep... Canadian dollar and Canadian prices are simply ****. I've been on the lookout for an Image Dynamics sub for a while, but a few days ago I bought a used RRM piggy... so new sub won't be an option for me for a while. That's why I'm trying to figure out a way to fix the Kicker. I got to get the Jensen sub out of my trunk. That thing is driving me nuts.
I just need a solution 
Trending Topics
Sep 27, 2005, 12:09 PM
#12
Originally Posted by logikalliquid
No warranty I assume? If theres enough lead left on the piece near the cone, why not try soldering it back together?
That's the only solution I could think of so far. But I'm facing 2 problems.
1. The lead is flush with the cone which makes the soldering job touchy as hell
2. The cone excursion requires a very strong solder.
I'm afraid the only way to make it work again is to take the whole thing appart
Anyone has the diagram or a "shop manual" Kicker Out-Sources their repairs and won't forward me the needed diagrams. Hell... they won't even tell me where they Out-Source the repairs 
Last edited by blaze_125; Sep 27, 2005 at 12:13 PM.
Sep 27, 2005, 12:12 PM
#13
Evolving Member
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: 512 to tha 210
Posts: 375
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
typical problem with these subs. i sent mine in for warranty work and they ended up trashing it and sending me a brand new one. i dont think it's repairable. and if you do get the lead reconnected, it'll happen to it again. just a matter of time.
Sep 27, 2005, 12:14 PM
#14
Originally Posted by M00kiE
typical problem with these subs. i sent mine in for warranty work and they ended up trashing it and sending me a brand new one. i dont think it's repairable. and if you do get the lead reconnected, it'll happen to it again. just a matter of time.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
mrwickd123
Evo X How Tos / Installations
30
Feb 20, 2019 09:29 PM
MyRoN
Lancer Ralliart Audio & Security (All models)
14
Jul 18, 2007 04:19 PM
Realistic
Lancer Ralliart Audio & Security (All models)
9
May 7, 2007 04:07 PM
sicx13
Lancer Audio and Security (All models)
6
Sep 6, 2003 08:15 PM
