What amp....?
Jul 27, 2006, 01:52 PM
#17
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Next q's what type box are you putting your pair in Sealed, ported, or bandpass? My choice would be ported. Please tell you not using bestbuy, cicuit city, or any crapping box like q-logic. Have it custom made or build your own.
Jul 27, 2006, 02:57 PM
#18
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Originally Posted by Evocore
Next q's what type box are you putting your pair in Sealed, ported, or bandpass? My choice would be ported. Please tell you not using bestbuy, cicuit city, or any crapping box like q-logic. Have it custom made or build your own.
Jul 27, 2006, 05:10 PM
#19
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Ported box will gives you the deep smooth bass and Sealed will gives you more punchy bass. But do want you want.
So,
Sub = Two 10" Fubar
Box= Sealed
I recommand these amp.
Lowest number = High budget ( not cheap).....Price start at $900
Highest Number = Cheap budget....Price end at $150
1. JL Audio 1000.1
2. Rockford Fosgate P10002
3. KICKER KX1200.1
4. Memphis 16-MCD1000
5. HIFONICS XX-CHAOS
6. JBL GTO1201.1
7. SoundStream PAC1000D
8. Kenwood KAC-X812D
9. HIFONICS BXi1206D
10. MA Audio HK 1000D
11. MA Audio HK-898
So,
Sub = Two 10" Fubar
Box= Sealed
I recommand these amp.
Lowest number = High budget ( not cheap).....Price start at $900
Highest Number = Cheap budget....Price end at $150
1. JL Audio 1000.1
2. Rockford Fosgate P10002
3. KICKER KX1200.1
4. Memphis 16-MCD1000
5. HIFONICS XX-CHAOS
6. JBL GTO1201.1
7. SoundStream PAC1000D
8. Kenwood KAC-X812D
9. HIFONICS BXi1206D
10. MA Audio HK 1000D
11. MA Audio HK-898
Jul 27, 2006, 05:47 PM
#20
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Dude, you are the man. Thanks alot for your help. I'm installing my HU this weekend, but prolly gonna have to wait till next payday to get the amp and install it. My final (maybe) questions are what gauge wire should I use for power? Should I go 1,2, or 4 ohm? The subs are wired for 1 ohm right now I think. And with how weak the lancers alternator is, should I get a cap with a sub pumping those kind of watts?
Jul 27, 2006, 06:21 PM
#21
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No problem, All the amp that I list required 0 or 2 Guage wires. Some of those amp that I list are mono which is 1 ohm stable. Some are 2 channel are 2 ohms X 2 or can be briged to 1 ohms on some of them. Just look at the amp spec. Yea alternator is weak, but I did Big 3 & upgrade battery which is optima yellow top. If you do those your'll be fine. You only need to upgrade alternator if the amp is 1500+ RMS. So none of those amp on the list is 1500rms anyway.
As for capacitor they are useless & piece of crap, they seriously do not work. I use to have one when I was 16. I thought it was cool to have one, but it does nothing. Go Car Audio Forum & ask them, all 30,000 member will say same thing.
As for capacitor they are useless & piece of crap, they seriously do not work. I use to have one when I was 16. I thought it was cool to have one, but it does nothing. Go Car Audio Forum & ask them, all 30,000 member will say same thing.
Jul 27, 2006, 06:36 PM
#22
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your sub= dual 4 ohms
For 2 channel....4+4 = 2ohms 4+4 = 2ohms
For mono.....4+4+4+4= 1 ohms
Here ohms spec.
1. JL Audio 1000.1 = 1000rms at 1-3 ohms load
2. Rockford Fosgate P10002 = 500 rms X 2 at 2 ohms load
3. KICKER KX1200.1 = 1200rms at 1 ohms load
4. Memphis 16-MCD1000 = 1000rms at 1 ohms
5. HIFONICS XX-CHAOS = 400rms x 2 at 2 ohms load
6. JBL GTO1201.1 = 1114rms x 1 ohms load
7. SoundStream PAC1000D = 1000rms at 1 ohms load
8. Kenwood KAC-X812D = 1000rms at 1 ohms load
9. HIFONICS BXi1206D = 1200rms at 1 ohms load
10. MA Audio HK 1000D = 1000 rms at 1 ohms load
11. MA Audio HK-898 = 400rms x 2 ohms load
For 2 channel....4+4 = 2ohms 4+4 = 2ohms
For mono.....4+4+4+4= 1 ohms
Here ohms spec.
1. JL Audio 1000.1 = 1000rms at 1-3 ohms load
2. Rockford Fosgate P10002 = 500 rms X 2 at 2 ohms load
3. KICKER KX1200.1 = 1200rms at 1 ohms load
4. Memphis 16-MCD1000 = 1000rms at 1 ohms
5. HIFONICS XX-CHAOS = 400rms x 2 at 2 ohms load
6. JBL GTO1201.1 = 1114rms x 1 ohms load
7. SoundStream PAC1000D = 1000rms at 1 ohms load
8. Kenwood KAC-X812D = 1000rms at 1 ohms load
9. HIFONICS BXi1206D = 1200rms at 1 ohms load
10. MA Audio HK 1000D = 1000 rms at 1 ohms load
11. MA Audio HK-898 = 400rms x 2 ohms load
Jul 28, 2006, 10:31 AM
#23
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Alright I'm confused 
. 1)When matching up two subs to one amp do you match the amp's RMS with one of the subs or both? So like if you want two 12" subs with a RMS of 500 do you find a amp with a RMS of 500 or 1000 or am I totally wrong. 2) Also will a mono amp power the two subs? 3) I have the 315 watt infinity sound package with the 8" sub and if I was to replace that amp and sub will I have to get a 4 channel amp or something to power the other speakers in the car or will they run through the HU?
. 1)When matching up two subs to one amp do you match the amp's RMS with one of the subs or both? So like if you want two 12" subs with a RMS of 500 do you find a amp with a RMS of 500 or 1000 or am I totally wrong. 2) Also will a mono amp power the two subs? 3) I have the 315 watt infinity sound package with the 8" sub and if I was to replace that amp and sub will I have to get a 4 channel amp or something to power the other speakers in the car or will they run through the HU?
Jul 28, 2006, 11:43 AM
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aquaman
1)matching up 2 subs just try to buy an amp rms power that meets your subs combined rms power (so 1000)
2)a mono amp is made for subs only (bass output only)
3)you can get a mono, class D or 2 channel and it will power your new sub and the other speakers will run as before off the HU, but if you want your speakers louder you can buy a 4 channel amp and run your speakers off of it, only problem might be running your RCA cables from the back of the HU, if your not big into knowing all about this id let a professional install one for you
1)matching up 2 subs just try to buy an amp rms power that meets your subs combined rms power (so 1000)
2)a mono amp is made for subs only (bass output only)
3)you can get a mono, class D or 2 channel and it will power your new sub and the other speakers will run as before off the HU, but if you want your speakers louder you can buy a 4 channel amp and run your speakers off of it, only problem might be running your RCA cables from the back of the HU, if your not big into knowing all about this id let a professional install one for you
Jul 28, 2006, 12:46 PM
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Thanks for the help. I'm looking at trashing/selling that Infinity system that I have and putting in a new HU, subs, and amp as a first mod to my OZ. I just got to figure out what I want and save some $$$.
Are any of those bass packages on Crutchfield any good(Bass Packages)? OR am I just better off choosing my own amp and subs?
Are any of those bass packages on Crutchfield any good(Bass Packages)? OR am I just better off choosing my own amp and subs?
Jul 29, 2006, 03:48 AM
#28
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Originally Posted by BillAce
There is no class D amp with a good THD. Class D amps square wave all output by design. Distortion isn't really as audible at low frequency and it isn't a problem.
Class D amps give there specs at static 4 ohm loads at 1,000 Hz.
When have you seen a Class D amp used at 4 ohms?
When have you seen a Class D amp playing 1KHz? Not including Tripath Class D technology of course.
THD is the most overrated spec in audio. I 100% guarranty that your ear has a THD threshold of at least .2 or 20%.
S/N is important as long as it is above 96db. That is the S/N ratio of a CD, you just don't want to make it worse. Most of the pretty lights, DSP, mega head units have S/N of around 92db and remember you can't make it better so its only as good as the worst component in the system.
Class D amps give there specs at static 4 ohm loads at 1,000 Hz.
When have you seen a Class D amp used at 4 ohms?
When have you seen a Class D amp playing 1KHz? Not including Tripath Class D technology of course.
THD is the most overrated spec in audio. I 100% guarranty that your ear has a THD threshold of at least .2 or 20%.
S/N is important as long as it is above 96db. That is the S/N ratio of a CD, you just don't want to make it worse. Most of the pretty lights, DSP, mega head units have S/N of around 92db and remember you can't make it better so its only as good as the worst component in the system.
Jul 31, 2006, 09:59 AM
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Alright my friend has the Dual bass package and I need help to find something that will kick harder than that. I'm looking for something that will make the whole car vibrate when I want to show off but also be able to turn it down to just cruise and give my ears a break (If any amp can do this with a turn of a dial on the amp then never mind). I'm new to the speaker world but not the electronic world. There's so many speakers and amps to choose from and I really don't know what is a good sub/amp. So any suggestions?
BTW I'm on a budget so lets say less then $450 preferably around $350 for the speaker(s)/amp/box.
Thanks
BTW I'm on a budget so lets say less then $450 preferably around $350 for the speaker(s)/amp/box.
Thanks
Jul 31, 2006, 10:44 AM
#30
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well your friend has THE WORST package ever... pretty much anything you buy will sound better... just get some MTX 5500s with a sealed enclosure and it will punch the crap outta your car
there is many easy ways to turn down bass, kicker has a remote where you control the bass from a little knob where u can mount anywhere, i have an eclipse deck and it has a built in crossover that cuts the bass in half
2 12 MTX 5500s are under under $100 off ebay stores... good deal
they are 300rms each so a good 600 rms amp will make them sound good
there are plenty of other options, just search for them... it wont be hard to beat your friend trust me
there is many easy ways to turn down bass, kicker has a remote where you control the bass from a little knob where u can mount anywhere, i have an eclipse deck and it has a built in crossover that cuts the bass in half
2 12 MTX 5500s are under under $100 off ebay stores... good deal
they are 300rms each so a good 600 rms amp will make them sound good
there are plenty of other options, just search for them... it wont be hard to beat your friend trust me