im having a lot of trouble lately with my system, i have two memphis 1000 watt subs, and a 1000 watt pioneer amp, just got the subs from a buddy for free and decided to hook them up. well the problem im having lately is that if i turn my radio up louder than say, 55% of the way up. the subs drain to much from my car, shut off the amp and wait for the car to catch up. i have a 1farad cap and i watch it start at 14.1 or 2 all the time, then when the subs kick in i can see it drop all the way to 9. any reason why this is happening?

 

your charging system cant handle it. the cheapest FIRST thing you can do is upgrade your factory grounds. It might help a LITTLE. But the end all solution is an alternator.

 

You know the system is to big when you can't leave your system on with the car off for more than 2 mins before the battery dies.

 

^^^ LOL, but I appreciate the truth in this stmt...

Just upgrade that alt and alot of these audio system threads would be no more...

 

i never run it more than 1/4 power because yes, lights dim majorly and all the interior lights dim to nothing

its only with bass though, so depends what im listening to

 

LUNCHBOX the reason its goes down to 9 is because the amp in that instat of time require a lot of power particulary in the low notes, thats the propouse of the cap beacuse the normal bat does not gives or discharge as fast as the cap so it can improve the performance of the amplifier, now what kind of amplifier u have to push your subs, a/b or d?

 

The best thing you can do if are having problems with power is to get a good alternator because it will generate all the amps to charge fast the battery.

I think that the post of MORBLOB20 is not complete true you can have more that a batt if you know how to do it porperly ig: for that you need a batt isolator them isolates batteries without any voltage drop, and is compatible with all types of alternators and charging systems.Your batteries will remain separated while the engine is off, preventing voltage drain.

about the 3 farad caps as i said before they are usefull, and you use 1 farad per 1000w.

the amplifiers the d class only works with low notes the requency response usually is is of 20-200 hz so them do not waist energy with the rest of the others freqs; in the other side the a/b class is the oposite works at full range so it needs more energy.

thanks.

 

I had 2 kicker comp 12's and 800w fosgate punch amp and my battery was dead in 3 months to where the alternator couldnt recharge it even after i had the speakers disconnected. I charged the battery and it was dead a week later. Bought a new battery and the alternator has done fine still. So that many watts will probably kill your battery faster than your alternator can charge it, but not hurt your actual alternator.

 

A battery isolator causes a voltage drop. its pretty easy.

engine running = 2nd battery bad
engine off = 2nd battery good

Caps are insignificant and a waste of money, especially the Carbon Alloy type that discharge as slow as the car battery. They will hide a voltage drop from you but don't correct it and never will.


There are class D amps that are full range too. They are complicated to switch on and off at that high of a rate and don't sound as good. It is the nature of the class D design to square wave so they aren't really beneficial unless heavily engineered and more expensive than an A/B amp. Class D amps also lose the efficiency benefit they have when driven near their limit so a CLass D @ 1/2 ohm will be about the same efficiency as an A/B amp.