Tell me about the JL 12W7
Feb 1, 2007, 08:00 AM
#19
The W7 is more of a marketing exercise than a performance one. You get a little more cone area and more excursion than a typical sub. The sacrifice is box size, efficiency and cost. Dumax testing has shown that you need 1500 watts to get the full output potential of the W7, and more power costs more money. There aren't many amplifiers that will provide that level of power either, amplifier ratings have become VERY OPTOMISTIC to say the least. If you want to spend a ton of money so you can say that the bass you hear came from a very expensive setup to imperss people then there are better alternatives for space, output and cost.
This is true for the L7 and many other "top of the line" subwoofer models out there.
You can buy a pair of many subs out there (including JL W3's) for less money. They will provide more output in approximately the same size enclosure with much less power needed.
This is true for the L7 and many other "top of the line" subwoofer models out there.
You can buy a pair of many subs out there (including JL W3's) for less money. They will provide more output in approximately the same size enclosure with much less power needed.
Feb 1, 2007, 08:23 AM
#20
Evolving Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Palm Beach, FL
Posts: 305
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
ok then my next question, if i'm able to buy 2 kicker l7's for the price of 150 a piece. would it be worth it to buy as appose to another speaker? seeing that the damn speaaker goes for399 i believe at circuit city each
Feb 1, 2007, 09:22 AM
#22
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Germany
Posts: 239
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The W7 is more of a marketing exercise than a performance one. You get a little more cone area and more excursion than a typical sub. The sacrifice is box size, efficiency and cost. Dumax testing has shown that you need 1500 watts to get the full output potential of the W7, and more power costs more money. There aren't many amplifiers that will provide that level of power either, amplifier ratings have become VERY OPTOMISTIC to say the least. If you want to spend a ton of money so you can say that the bass you hear came from a very expensive setup to imperss people then there are better alternatives for space, output and cost.
This is true for the L7 and many other "top of the line" subwoofer models out there.
You can buy a pair of many subs out there (including JL W3's) for less money. They will provide more output in approximately the same size enclosure with much less power needed.
This is true for the L7 and many other "top of the line" subwoofer models out there.
You can buy a pair of many subs out there (including JL W3's) for less money. They will provide more output in approximately the same size enclosure with much less power needed.
Feb 1, 2007, 10:18 AM
#23
Evolved Member
iTrader: (26)
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Newport News, Virginia
Posts: 3,897
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
What's everyones opinion on Memphis subwoofers?
Feb 1, 2007, 10:42 AM
#25
Evolved Member
iTrader: (44)
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: High-Plains Desert
Posts: 1,584
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
W7's are all about technology. They aren't the best 12 out there but since JL has the name going for them a lot of people will buy the hype. If you want extreme power handling and SPL look into MMATS Jugernaut series subs.
I personally have a JL 10W6 in the JL High-Output box pushed by the 500.1 JL Slash Amp in my Evo. Anyone who didn't know any better swore I had a 12...it hits that hard. Only reason I didn't get a 12w6 is because the H.O. box would not fit in the trunk opening and I like to pull the sub out when I need the room or hit the track.
It seems that most people will buy into hype but in reality can't tell the difference between a W7 or a W6. And the W6's are 300 cheaper.
I personally have a JL 10W6 in the JL High-Output box pushed by the 500.1 JL Slash Amp in my Evo. Anyone who didn't know any better swore I had a 12...it hits that hard. Only reason I didn't get a 12w6 is because the H.O. box would not fit in the trunk opening and I like to pull the sub out when I need the room or hit the track.
It seems that most people will buy into hype but in reality can't tell the difference between a W7 or a W6. And the W6's are 300 cheaper.
Feb 1, 2007, 01:34 PM
#28
Evolved Member
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Greenville, SC
Posts: 4,796
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
But yeah, the Polks get the job done! and look good too!
Feb 1, 2007, 01:41 PM
#29
Evolved Member
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Cali
Posts: 555
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have a single Jl Audio 12w7 powered by a Arc Audio 1500dr and it sounds awesome!!! It hits soo hard and low it will make your insides hurt. Its a very nice sound quality sub. Hits harder and louder than the 3 JL Audio 12w6 I once owned. And no its not a waste of money. You get what you pay for. Sure there are other subs that come close and are cheaper. Ive been in car audio for over 20years now and I've owned them all. Kicker solobarics are also nice. If you have more money look into Image Dynamics or Arc Audio subs. Alpine has a few nice subs. Polk SR series are pretty good. This is just my opinion. Don't let anyone tell you what to do with your money. Listen to subs one at a time and buy the one that sound good to your ears and budget. Good luck
Feb 1, 2007, 02:54 PM
#30
It is hard to buy a sub based on how it sounds. Every car interior has a transfer function that will have a huge effect, especially on low frequency response. Typical Bass notes have a wavelength of 14-25 feet. There is mostly wave interaction since a car interior isn't that long. The cancellation or combining of waves based on reflective distances and interior volume will dictate much of the response. Power up to compression, is also important. There is a point when too much power is nothing but heat and damage for a speaker. Lucky for us, most amps never deliver that 2000 watts written on the box.
It's simple physics, move air. A bigger sub moves more air and can be louder. If a sub has more excursion (longer stroke) it will also be louder. The W7 gives you a lightly larger cone and more excursion. of course the "W" cone is much heavier and takes more energy to move so a larger motor structure and magnet is used. It takes more power to get the benefits and the mounting depth and enclosure volume mean it needs to occupy more space than most subs. You can definitely receive the same response and output with half the money spent.
The L7 has a square cone for more "surface area". Of course the square cone has corners that are areas of stress so it has to reinforce those areas and the cone is again much heavier than a traditional woofer. The surround isn't immune to lateral forces and needs 'ribs' to allow that motion without being ripped apart. The excusrion is also no better adn in many cases worse than a typical sub. So here you spend a little less than a W7 and get a smaller box but still need a ton of power and don't gain anything worth mentioning in air movement.
Arc subs are actually rebadged Image Dynamics stuff.
Another thing is the "plays so low" concept. The lowest fundamental note of a musical instrument is around 43Hz. (unless your playing a pipe organ with 56' long pipes). Most box designs will begin to roll off above this point and the majority of bass response is in the 60-80Hz range and this is usually where bass is the loudest. A sub playing loud at 40Hz that tried to play equally loud at 20Hz would have to move twice as far. This isn't likely to happen, iron law states that to play an octabve lower you need 8 times the power or enclosure size. You really have to get exotic to get low sub bass response, Aperiodic membranes, well designed free air setups, or transmission line enclosures will do it. Huge ported boxes can too but are usually very dangerous without a subsonic filter.
Besides, what are you listening to down there anyway, Pipe Organ and Stand Up Bass holiday classics?
It's simple physics, move air. A bigger sub moves more air and can be louder. If a sub has more excursion (longer stroke) it will also be louder. The W7 gives you a lightly larger cone and more excursion. of course the "W" cone is much heavier and takes more energy to move so a larger motor structure and magnet is used. It takes more power to get the benefits and the mounting depth and enclosure volume mean it needs to occupy more space than most subs. You can definitely receive the same response and output with half the money spent.
The L7 has a square cone for more "surface area". Of course the square cone has corners that are areas of stress so it has to reinforce those areas and the cone is again much heavier than a traditional woofer. The surround isn't immune to lateral forces and needs 'ribs' to allow that motion without being ripped apart. The excusrion is also no better adn in many cases worse than a typical sub. So here you spend a little less than a W7 and get a smaller box but still need a ton of power and don't gain anything worth mentioning in air movement.
Arc subs are actually rebadged Image Dynamics stuff.
Another thing is the "plays so low" concept. The lowest fundamental note of a musical instrument is around 43Hz. (unless your playing a pipe organ with 56' long pipes). Most box designs will begin to roll off above this point and the majority of bass response is in the 60-80Hz range and this is usually where bass is the loudest. A sub playing loud at 40Hz that tried to play equally loud at 20Hz would have to move twice as far. This isn't likely to happen, iron law states that to play an octabve lower you need 8 times the power or enclosure size. You really have to get exotic to get low sub bass response, Aperiodic membranes, well designed free air setups, or transmission line enclosures will do it. Huge ported boxes can too but are usually very dangerous without a subsonic filter.
Besides, what are you listening to down there anyway, Pipe Organ and Stand Up Bass holiday classics?