Nevaeh

Okay so I was bouncing ideas off my fathers head this afternoon... and he suggested a Marine Deep Cycle Battery, to help with the amp load..

My questions are as follows:

If I take a Second battery, how do I install it?

Do I take the battery positive and put in line; and where do I put my main ANL fuse, at the first battery? or after the second battery?

If I just hook the battery inline on the 4g power in the back, and from there 4g to my d-block, isn't the power distrubuted between the two batteries?

Will a second battery help with my dimming lights? and having a second battery, could be able to run the amps off that battery, without running my battery up front down?

Also should a isolator be installed?

Thanks for your input!!!

yitzac1990

iTrader: (16)

you dont need a second battery, you arent running enough watts. if anything get a bigger alternator. period.

Nevaeh

whats the pricing on those? and have you seen where ours is placed? you'd have to drop the engine just to put it in... even more so just to unmount the stock one.... place after market ones have too many potential problems... the stock ones are pretty reliable

Nevaeh

.... and a 1000rms total power isnt alot of watts?

yitzac1990

iTrader: (16)

new alternators are about $450 for 300 amp alts, less for lass amps. yes I have seen where its placed. you might be able to get away with crawling under the engine, dropping the AC comporeesor, then the alt. the stock ones are 120 amp

haha no.....i had 1600 RMS and just had the big 3 upgrade...did you do that yet?

Nevaeh

Well I have a beefy Bosch Battery, and I haven't messed with the Big 3, where does the neg off the battery go when it disappears to the right of the engine?

I am curious as to why the amp cuts off in the middle of a decent volume, I am reading it and I am think that because I downstepped the wire from 4g to 8g at the dblock, its weak... perhaps I need to upgrade that lil bit of wire? The sub shouldn't bottom out...

Its driving me nuts because my 15's (****ty 15's) made more noise then what this is putting out. I have heard JL's before they thump... but mine is being weak right now... I know for a fact there are no shorts.. The weak points in the set are: The big 3 (which would be the reason for the dimming lights), the AUG inline fuse, (which blows if I get on the system), and the downstep in power wire (which I think is why its cutting out)....

so maybe a 1000 watts aren't alot, I just dont want dimming lights lol

yitzac1990

iTrader: (16)

yeah, definitely do the big 3. do at LEAST 4 gauge for that. I had 0 gauge. redo the alternator ground to chassis, the alternator positive to battery positive, and battery ground to chassis. buy a new ground terminal for the battery too. and it wouldnt hurt to redo the tranny ground, the black wire that seems to "disappear" down behind the battery lol the 8 gauge wire is fine, since you have one 8 gauge wire per amp, and not one 8 gauge wire driving a single 1000 watt amp. next time you run your system while youre driving, run it as loud as it can go pretty much, then after a while go to the back and feel the amps. if they are very hot, like burning to the touch, then your sub or speakers are wired to too low of an ohm load. thats what happens when, for example, you put a 1 ohm sub load on a 2 ohm stable amp.....stuff gets HOT! trust me, ive done it before. you really need to get a 150 amp ANL fuse under the hood man, just go to a car audio store by you and pick up a fuse and fuse holder.

Nevaeh

I have my ANL coming today hooray it has been a long time trying to get that thing in the mail they lost it but found it and its here in ATX.... the 8g just had my concerned... now that I think about the amp really only cuts out while idling... as for running the system as loud as I can bear, it my ears will start to ring from my highs up front... but the amps do not get hot at all.. the subs and speakers are all wired correctly just the cutting out business .... i think it might be the fuse...

could the the itty bitty fuse cause it the amp to cut out, because its not letting the power through? Its basically a process that I just flip the switch to the amp on and off to reset it and have it power on..

yitzac1990

iTrader: (16)

try also replacing BOTH AGU fuses, the ones going to each amp after the d-block. and put the ANL in the main wire, then try it again. this is why AGU sucks, they can just stop working all of a sudden sometimes....when I worked at a car audio shop, we had a girl come in with a system and she said it would randomly cutout and stuff, so we replaced her AGU fuse and everything worked fine.

bigric09

iTrader: (37)

out of curiosity.... what amp are you using... what subs, how many ? What is the impedance that the amp is actually seeing ?

Nevaeh

CVS112RG-W6v2

it comes from the factory wired at 2ohms, and i'm using 1

Alpine PDX-1.600

I am not sure right off, but I will measure the resistance tonight after work, but I am assuming that JL didn't fudge it up and sent the sub wired at a 2 ohm rating

bigric09

iTrader: (37)

So you have only 1 W6 dual 2 ohm coils wired in parrelel ? I bet if you rewire them in series... let the amp see a 4 Ohm load, you will stop getting the cutout. Im guessing that your amp while it may say 1 or 2 ohm stable, probably is not. You may also need to throw 1.0 to 1.5 fd cap in the system to help with the current draw.

Nevaeh

why would the ohm load change the cutout?? i am just asking out of curiosity?

Nevaeh

replacing both AGU fuses on the amps with what another ANL fuse? or fresh AGU fuses? I believe that both are pretty new, at least the 80A is, the 60A isn't rather but its not the amp thats cutting out either...

Nevaeh

Sorry but I am looking at the JL Audio website, and I am wondering how in do world do you wire up a 4ohm DVC to show 4ohm to the amp