ZapcoLancer

Hrmm, how about 3 12's. Plain and simple guys, it doesnt matter how many of this how many of that, it really comes down to what equipment you have, and who is doing your tuning. I have 3 12's, no distortion, very high rate SQ, and also can have it tuned to do 150 Db for SPL, so I have the best of both worlds. Thats the fact though, it matters what you have and who is doing your tuning and what experience they have.

Sentinal

and pocket book most of us can't drop 25 thousand dollars into a system like yours. I'm jelous you probably have the nicest system of anyone on EvoM.

sleek_concepts

iTrader: (3)

it doesnt matter what kind of wallet you have, haha. he is actually the only true statement so far. it doesnt matter how many or what size for "loud" or "clear" sound. it matters who is tuning your system. you should always have a custom encloosure built, never buy a prefab box. every speaker out there is different and they all sound different in the same box. most of your distorion comes from the fact that you are running the wrong box. also, three tens does not necessarily make you louder. i have seen vehicles with 3 tens or 12s for that matter get blown out of cometitions by 1 12. it happens a lot. my buddy used to hold the florida state record for up to 15 inches with 1 12 that hit 172db. i have never seen 3 10s come close to that. but his system was properly built.

i guess what i am trying to say is it doesnt matter what size or how many as long as you are smart about it and dont cut any corners. do everything custom made for the subs and amp that you have.

Sentinal

you obviously didn't read the original post.... same sub brand and line... this means assuming all other variables are equal box wires tuning etc this thread is in no way compareing different types of components its only purpose is comparing different number and size of equal subs.

sleek_concepts

iTrader: (3)

well im not very good at assuming. i dont like the idea of odd amounts of things so i would say 2 10s will be your best bet.

sleek_concepts

iTrader: (3)

so it seems that this is te proper answer. if you put all the same time and effort into each one of those options you will be looking at this scenario. when put into a box properly built to the specifications of the subs and powered by the correct amplifier the 15s will be louder than the 12s or the 2-10s, obviously, they are moving more air. the 3-10s and the 15s will be moving roughly the same amount of air so they will be close in volume, however the 10s will sound better. so if really loud is what you crave i say go with 3 10s, if really loud but clear is what you crave i say go with 2 10s.

Sentinal

I'm suprised 12's are gettin the votes.. Every person from a stereo shop I have talked to all have agreed if all settings are the same 3 10's will blow away 2 12's for SQ and SPL... I find this poll intersting

Danno

iTrader: (4)

^ A lot of people dont know that. You would be supprised on how many people think bigger is better. I have 1 10" right now, and It is great for me. It is a nice tight sound and Not too loud. I like clearity. In a SPL comp I hit a 132 with 1 10 (old sub that wasnt as good). Regardless i figure that is pretty decent for what I was running and how I was powering it.

I was hoping this thread was about sub arrangement. I Put mine off to one side against the rear seat when driving and angle it to point across the trunk for SPL. I was just wonderdering what other people do. (I hope this isnt too offtopic from your origional post)

BillAce

iTrader: (2)

Lets see, (3) 10's = 235 sq inches of cone area
(2) 12's = 226 sq inches of cone area

The difference in air movement is about the equivalent of a 3.5" speaker between these options. IS it worth the extra expense, limited voice coil applications for a difference of .1 db? If the woofers are the same brand/model, their excursion characteristics should be the same. If you want to spend more money on amplifiers/woofers, need a larger enclosure, than 3 10's wins.

The whole 10's are tighter and better for sq deal only applies when the subs are crap. When you look at a sub and the motor structure/voice coil is the same whether it's a 10, 12 or 15 it matters, but that's ust because the manufacturer is cheap and just wants to make a buck. Many name brands fall into this category, but since they are made in the same factory as the cheap stuff it's no surprise.

Here's an example:

a 10 is like a Honda Civic, the 1.7L motor is enough to move the little car around town.

A 12 would be like an Accord. 50% more area. If Honda put the 1.7L in the Accord it wouldn't get out of it's own way so they offer a larger base motor. Buy most 12's and it would be the smaller motor from th 10 or Civic.

A 15 is more than double the area of a 10 so it's like trying to tow a Civic with a Civic. The motor has no control and it sounds like garbage.

Everyone is hung up on a pair of 12's and then gets a horrible pre fab enclosure and buys some bullsh!t (when Lightning Strikes) 1000 watt amplifier and wonder why their system sounds like garbage.

-Buy the best amp you can afford, none better than Zapco.
-figure out how much space you have for an enclosure.
-choose the woofer/woofers that work the best in that space with the amount of power you have available.

Danno

iTrader: (4)

Is my Earthquake 10 decent? I like it and thats what matters.

SK Lancer

The reason that you DONT do odd number of subs is because of the funny load you get to the amp - they're not that fond of 3 ohm sometimes...

ZapcoLancer's amp can take any load you put to it (like the JL Audio Slash series amps) and put out the same power, so it doesnt matter.

Higgity Hank

1 x 18"

Sentinal

this is a good point if you do run 3 tens you do need to make sure your amp is set up to handle that level of impedance. I use JL amps so as stated output is same and it doesn't matter.

Billace... before posting another novel why don't you go back and read previous posts like the ones that says "assuming other variables are equal for setup and wiring etc is correct power supply etc"


lol thats funny

BillAce

iTrader: (2)

Billace... before posting another novel why don't you go back and read previous posts like the ones that says "assuming other variables are equal for setup and wiring etc is correct power supply etc"


The original post said box, wires, tuning. Nothing about amplifiers and obviously the speakers are different sizes. After reading all the Voodoo, wives tails and misinformation, I tried to explain it simply enough so it could be understood by laymen. I guess it was still over your head . I would say 90% of the guys that work in car audio don't know **** and that makes it harder for consumers. There is a whole lot of crap on the market and people make some bad purchasing desicions based on unqualified internet, freind and even professional recommendations. I know my qualifications, how many magazines have you been published in? If you want, I'll only answer other peoples questions from now on.

BTW, The Zapco 9.0 is not impedance matching like the old PPI and the JL amps. It has to be ordered as a 2 or 4 ohm amplifier. Brian's lancer has a 2 ohm version running @ around 2.2 ohms mono and the size of the sealed enclosure keeps the impedance curve very stable.

Bill

TurboErik

I think if you are going to put any kind of upgrade in your car, it should be full throttle, just like the Evo!

http://www.carsound.com/cgi-bin/UBB_...4;t=005637;p=0

-E