**weird tune??**
Dec 7, 2006, 08:30 AM
#1
**does this make sense??**
Here is a tuning question… sorry it’s long, but I wanted to explain the details 
So, I got my lancer a little while ago, toward the end of the summer. I knew there was a lot of potential with all the goodies that were strapped on, but it was in dire need of a tune. Buschur did not have any openings when I was available, so I asked around and found a guy that did DSM tuning with the SAFC in Cleveland which was exactly what I was looking for because I did not have a ton of cash, but wanted to make sure my engine did not blow up and so I could pass The Ohio E-Check with a waiver (if you have never heard of the E-Check, read this
it is a only-certain-counties-in-Ohio thing). Anyway…
So after he did the “tune” with my SAFC he told me that it would run good for about a week and then I would have to come back for another final tune because after the initial week the ECU would recognize that I had made adjustments. So I came back the following week and since I was not a seasoned manual tranny driver, he showed me how to get the most out of it…
He showed me in order to get the most jump from the way he tuned it that I was to hold the throttle down half-way and ease it the rest of the way and around 4 grand was where I would get the most power. My car works great as long as I drive it this way which is not a problem since I am used to it, but the car is real jerky and I thought that you normally push the throttle all the way down to get the best jump… but I do not know…
any tuners have any idea why the car would be tuned like this or is this normal??
So, I got my lancer a little while ago, toward the end of the summer. I knew there was a lot of potential with all the goodies that were strapped on, but it was in dire need of a tune. Buschur did not have any openings when I was available, so I asked around and found a guy that did DSM tuning with the SAFC in Cleveland which was exactly what I was looking for because I did not have a ton of cash, but wanted to make sure my engine did not blow up and so I could pass The Ohio E-Check with a waiver (if you have never heard of the E-Check, read this
it is a only-certain-counties-in-Ohio thing). Anyway…So after he did the “tune” with my SAFC he told me that it would run good for about a week and then I would have to come back for another final tune because after the initial week the ECU would recognize that I had made adjustments. So I came back the following week and since I was not a seasoned manual tranny driver, he showed me how to get the most out of it…
He showed me in order to get the most jump from the way he tuned it that I was to hold the throttle down half-way and ease it the rest of the way and around 4 grand was where I would get the most power. My car works great as long as I drive it this way which is not a problem since I am used to it, but the car is real jerky and I thought that you normally push the throttle all the way down to get the best jump… but I do not know…
any tuners have any idea why the car would be tuned like this or is this normal??
Last edited by wickdaddy; Dec 7, 2006 at 09:19 AM.
Dec 7, 2006, 11:02 AM
#3
Dec 7, 2006, 11:15 AM
#4
Originally Posted by Blacksheepdj
I still say you should call Buschur and have the pros dyno-tune it. But you know that.
(PS - thanks for going out without me last night. Jerk.
)
(PS - thanks for going out without me last night. Jerk.
)
ya... kev was like... ya he's probablywith the gf tonite then you txted when we were driving back from steak n shake
Dec 8, 2006, 07:26 AM
#5
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Given the lack of answers, I'm guessing no one knows...
Dumb question - why wait for the body kit to tune the motor? You'll just scrape the kit on the dyno and feel bad. Get the motor handled NOW before something goes wrong.
Dumb question - why wait for the body kit to tune the motor? You'll just scrape the kit on the dyno and feel bad. Get the motor handled NOW before something goes wrong.
Dec 8, 2006, 07:39 AM
#6
Originally Posted by Blacksheepdj
Given the lack of answers, I'm guessing no one knows...
Dumb question - why wait for the body kit to tune the motor? You'll just scrape the kit on the dyno and feel bad. Get the motor handled NOW before something goes wrong.
Dumb question - why wait for the body kit to tune the motor? You'll just scrape the kit on the dyno and feel bad. Get the motor handled NOW before something goes wrong.
Dec 8, 2006, 08:56 AM
#7
Originally Posted by wickdaddy
well... I dunno... I guess that would make sense to go get it tuned and then I can take care of the kit... buschur tune = 300??
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Dec 8, 2006, 09:29 AM
#8
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Yeah, you want it tuned with how it's going to be set up, motor wise. Your body kit won't affect the tune whatsoever. So unless you have some go-fast parts waiting for install that I don't know about, get the tune now.
Dyno-tune runs something like $125/hour (last I checked). Might want to call Buschur and get a time estimate so you know what to budget.
Dyno-tune runs something like $125/hour (last I checked). Might want to call Buschur and get a time estimate so you know what to budget.
Dec 8, 2006, 11:17 AM
#9
Originally Posted by Blacksheepdj
Might want to call Buschur...
so, I called them and they said that their rates are the following per hour and that it would take a maximum of 2 hours to complete the tune:100 - use their dyno and they do not tune
150 - use their dyno and they tune for you
I think we should plan a spring dyno day at buschur and maybe get a cut in pricing
Dec 8, 2006, 11:31 AM
#10
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Tuning first is a good idea. I trust Buschur totally on the tune. You may just have some limitations with AFC since there is no map sensor and therefore the tune is based on RPM mostly and not boost levels.
ROAD/RACE
ROAD/RACE
Dec 8, 2006, 11:51 AM
#11
Originally Posted by ROCK
Tuning first is a good idea. I trust Buschur totally on the tune. You may just have some limitations with AFC since there is no map sensor and therefore the tune is based on RPM mostly and not boost levels.
ROAD/RACE
ROAD/RACE
Dec 8, 2006, 05:48 PM
#13
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Originally Posted by wickdaddy
Ya... the guy that I talked to there said that I should email Dave about tuning using openECU with the tactrix cable bc then then the ECU can be tuned beyond the air to fuel ratios... unless someone has a better option
The option will be that we will be selling our stage 2 Piggyback separately. It has map sensor so it will map fuel kinda like AEM EMS does. Call us. Website should be updated soon with new products but you can call us in the meantime.
ROAD/RACE
Dec 8, 2006, 10:53 PM
#14
Originally Posted by Mirage2.0
That's expensive. Where I live dyno places are way cheaper. Tune it yourself goes for $60, and if they do it, $100-120.
Originally Posted by Rock
Piggyback...