what oil to use?
#16
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if u switch to AMSoil u wont have to change the oil or filter for a max of 30k miles if u get SS 0w-30 so ud possibly save a little money and ya its better for ur engine it doesnt gunk up
#19
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^is that safe though? and where the hell do you get amsoil besides online? wally world ain't got it, and i didn't find it at autozone
#21
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Depends on the age and wear on the motor. Lighter weights when it's new then heavier when the motor has wear. I was using 20/50 before the rebuild. During the last races I was seeing oil smoke on the up shifts. My 6 puck ACT clutch was destroyed from several years of road racing. I timed it perfectly.
#23
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yes sir he is correct 35,000 miles more like it,,,,, and remember AMSOIL stands 100% behind their product
Service Life
AMSOIL Signature Series 0W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil is recommended for extended drain intervals in unmodified(1), mechanically sound(2) gasoline fueled vehicles as follows:
• Normal Service(3) – Up to 35,000 miles or one year, whichever comes first.
• Severe Service(4) – Up to 17,500 miles or one year, whichever comes first.
• Replace AMSOIL Ea oil filter at the time of oil change up to 25,000 miles or one year, whichever comes first (other brands at standard OEM* intervals).
• In all non-gasoline fueled vehicle applications, extend the oil change interval according to oil analysis or follow the OEM* drain interval
Service Life
AMSOIL Signature Series 0W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil is recommended for extended drain intervals in unmodified(1), mechanically sound(2) gasoline fueled vehicles as follows:
• Normal Service(3) – Up to 35,000 miles or one year, whichever comes first.
• Severe Service(4) – Up to 17,500 miles or one year, whichever comes first.
• Replace AMSOIL Ea oil filter at the time of oil change up to 25,000 miles or one year, whichever comes first (other brands at standard OEM* intervals).
• In all non-gasoline fueled vehicle applications, extend the oil change interval according to oil analysis or follow the OEM* drain interval
#24
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For an n/a car full synthetic is not needed. I have run cars with +200k miles on regular oil. My very first car had 270k on it when I finally got rid of it and never did it see synthetic. It was also still running when I got rid of it.
Therefore, I see no need to use full synthetic unless you are pushing a lot of power or really beat on your car.
Therefore, I see no need to use full synthetic unless you are pushing a lot of power or really beat on your car.
#25
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For an n/a car full synthetic is not needed. I have run cars with +200k miles on regular oil. My very first car had 270k on it when I finally got rid of it and never did it see synthetic. It was also still running when I got rid of it.
Therefore, I see no need to use full synthetic unless you are pushing a lot of power or really beat on your car.
Therefore, I see no need to use full synthetic unless you are pushing a lot of power or really beat on your car.
you buy 4 quarts of penzoil and a filter to complete an oil change on your toyota corolla you spend 18.00$ lets say.
you change the oil on that corrola every 3,000 k , you would be making 4 oil changes in 12 months, that puts you at 18$ * 4 = 72.00 per year
4 quarts of any synthetic and a filter could range anywhere between 25-40 $ LET ME SEE OH YEAH THE SYNTHETIC PAID OFF FOR IT SELF AND IT SAVED YOU MONEY PLUS IS BEEN PROVEN THAT IT WILL SAVE YOUR MOTOR AND MPG.
Look at the four ball wear test conducted, look at how when you use an inferior oil it will punish your engine,,, also the gunk that dyno oil will create in your engine is incredible.
#26
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For an n/a car full synthetic is not needed. I have run cars with +200k miles on regular oil. My very first car had 270k on it when I finally got rid of it and never did it see synthetic. It was also still running when I got rid of it.
Therefore, I see no need to use full synthetic unless you are pushing a lot of power or really beat on your car.
Therefore, I see no need to use full synthetic unless you are pushing a lot of power or really beat on your car.
i am not trying to tell you to make the switch just making sure this thread is not missinformed.
what worked years ago may not work these days.
#27
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You can throw out all of the technical mumbo jumbo that you want to, that does not change the fact that it is not NEEDED. That is all I've ever claimed.
Some people feel better using syn, I can absolutely understand that.
#28
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I would recommend going with a oil dyno/ or synthetic that is easily accesible. What if you are in the middle of now where, and are running a qt. low. Doubt the corner store will have Amsoil! Mobil 1 perhaps, and Penzoil....most likely. The filter is a very important part of this whole process as well. Stay away from Fram, they are cardboard and garbage. I actually was using the Mitsu OEM filter. It is about $5 a filter, and comes pre lubed and ready to install. You can pay more for the other brands like K&N, but I am sure Mitsu products are just as good.
#29
false,
you need to get facts before spreading false info in the forums, it is totally incorect that statement.
i understand that one can be miss informed easilly with so much info out there, but please be carefull
i have many many customers that were using dyno oil for over 50,000 miles and they decided to go and give synthetic a try,, what will hapen is the syntetic willl strart cleaning all that gunk that was build up for all those years with dyno oil.
you need to get facts before spreading false info in the forums, it is totally incorect that statement.
i understand that one can be miss informed easilly with so much info out there, but please be carefull
i have many many customers that were using dyno oil for over 50,000 miles and they decided to go and give synthetic a try,, what will hapen is the syntetic willl strart cleaning all that gunk that was build up for all those years with dyno oil.