Has anyone read this yet? I am not farmiliar with RPW, but thought it was an interesting article. Looks like the CVT did better than they expected:

http://www.rpw.com.au/shop/index.php...=272&Itemid=40

Interesting reading! Enjoy!

 

I knew Cvt is a good Transmission. Thanks for the insight. 54 views and none of them commenting wow...one more thing why the dyno set to 4wd? and the 4-2-1 headers is going to be perfect for our cars.

 

I read most of it. But where did the CVT "shine" exactly? It's not like the car gained a lot of power.

 

Yea, i'm not sure if the 4wd thing matters. Sounds like they are headed in a good direction. It seems they are using the baseline dyno as a starting point for improvement. The company is in Australia though. What would shipping be on parts from there?

 

I must admit i just glanced over the job 4 section about the gear shifter. Not sure why that is even there, other than to advertise some additional parts they are making. I did not want to give the impression the CVT shined or gained alot of power. The link was just for info purposes.

 

The R&D guide is being done for both manual and auto owners. The customer who provided his vehicle happened to have a CVT transmission that was all. The R&D guide was to also show customers (Potential) about all the products we are making for the car and the results of them.

IF anyone has any questions about what we are doing or the results we are getting, feel free to ask away. Always happy to explain the results we get.

Our test car is due in to our shop in the next two weeks, when we will be fitting the balance of the exhaust system, extractors (Both designs) and then doing some retuning. As always results of all three upgrades will be independantly tested.

I am not sure what you are referring to in regards to the dyno being 4wd. Our dyno is a 4wd dyno but we are only using the 2wd portion of it.

And for clarification, all figures being qouted are at the hubs / wheels, not flywheel as stated on the dyno printouts. The reason being our dyno has a calibration option to calculate back to flywheel, but we set it to a calibration factor of 1, so that flywheel and hub figures are identical.

The Cold Air Kit results were surprising but welcome. With the easy access you USA customers have to K&N, the K&N Apollo kits are definitly something you should be checking out.

 

I thought everything looked good to me. I read in the report that it was a hub dyno, so I just disregarded the "flywheel" at the bottom of the chart. I also assumed that those figures were wheel/hub HP and not flywheel HP. I will always appreciate valuable data for our vehicles.

 

In regards to your CVT testing.. if possible i would revert to using a 5 speed manual. The CVT transmission tends to have slight diviations during dyno testing because of the Transmission to Engine lock up and engagement. Alot of factors beyond normal control cause this to happen. Slight variances in temp. Belt slippage may throw things off. The more stresses you put on the transmission the variance you are going to in the results. Especially after a battery of tests on the dyno. Run after run after run. Be sure to monitor your transmission CVT temps as well, and if possible have a dedicated fan specifically for your CVT cooler when doing dyno runs. Bolt on upgrades will yield greater power for the engine, but the CVT may start to counter that increased input torque by altering the TQ converter engagement. If you want to talk about these more over the phone or something just send me an email evosoul.com@gmail.com

The best thing you can do is upgrade to a better more stable results with the CVT is to upgrade the transmission fluid such as the fluid that Nippon Oil has. Its designed for performance CVT uses and allows for better transfers of power from engine to CVT since the belts operate more effiecently.

 

Update for those interested - our extractor / header packages just arrived so we will be in the next few weeks do the final rounds of testing on the CVT model being header comparison RPW 4-1 V 4-2-1, cat back exhaust and of course the big one, reflahsing factory ecu.

We do plan on eventually doing all the same testing on a manuel model ecu.

We will also be fitting an Auto Transmission Cooler to the CVT Transmission to keep the oil cooler and reduce slippage.

 

Sounds good. I did have a question for you in regards to the CVT tranny:

You mentioned on the page you had to find the right gearing combo (i assume you were in sport mode) for the dyno run. I already know from an incident on the track that the transmission will switch to auto mode if you go above 6.5K (don't know how high i got, just know i was above it) and typically our tracks are small so we are usually in 1st or 2nd gear. I am currently runnng a larger track (up to 4th gear) My question is do you remember what gearing/rpm combo you used? How bad did the belt slippage get during testing? It seems at the last event that my car even in sport mode on occasion after my 3rd or 4th run would bogg down as everyone says. This was the first time it happened but like i said, bigger faster track. Just curious.

 

To be honest I don't remember off the top of my head, but we wern't doing multiple runs every minute. To provide most consistant setup what we did was

Lock vehicle into sports mode and used 4th gear
Did two power runs straight after each other, ignored the first run, and used the 2nd run as our measuring point. This probably allowed the transmission to get to a preset tempature and allowed everything to work consistantly.

We are only just touching the 6500rpm range (The dyno rpm scale is not 100% accurate due to the auto slippage) so we are not having an issue with the transmission trying to change gears

Being aware of how badly auto's can slip on us, we usually give plenty of time between runs to ensure that we get accurate results.

 

No matter what you do, your vehicle's components can't escape the effects of friction. But though you can't stop friction from wearing out your engine parts, you can minimize its effects by lubricating the parts. You should have enough supply of engine oil and gear oil to get the job done. Not many people are aware, though, that oil heats up as it lubricates the components. To keep it from boiling, you must rely oil cooler to keep it cold.

 

so wait, a while back i heard lancers over in japan with CVTs were pushing 200whp+ safely, and we're doing headers and flashes here and we're having problems already?

 

krislou80. This is true to some degree but there are much more variables that go into this in todays cars. Factor in the fact that the tolerances are getting tighter and tighter, people have to choose wisely when they modify their car to extreme levels.

Proper oil design for aggressive and extreme conditions can handle friction. Heat is the number 1 killer. One upgrade I would consider is something like a radiator additive that lowers coolant temps. Royal purple has something like this but so do alot of other companies. Which one is the best, hard to say. But if you can reduce your temps in any way possible. it helps down the road in terms of the life of your car.

 

Where did you find that?