jwick76

iTrader: (1)

here's the info on idle in the attachment. as for the sas mode issues, i'm getting into sas mode fine...but there are no actuators to deal with...nothing i can see to adjust...i attached a pic of the screen so you can see. should i try an earlier version of evoscan? i don't have a gauge installed for afr yet, so i can't give any info on that...

ClixT

iTrader: (2)

I'm currently in the process of tuning my 501 maf. So far so good, no knocks at all except if i do WOT.
When I first installed it with the stock eclipse values, I'm getting knock as high as 16 and the minimum is 6..
One thing I notice is my STFT is more than 10% all the time.. Trying to figure out how to tune STFT to be close to 0....

Some other info: I'm using a modified Lancer auto big maps by RS to suite N/A application.

HornstarBU

iTrader: (7)

The ISCV numbers are how much air to let in i think, although I've been told to think of it like "how hard does the engine need to try to stay idling"...anyway, the numbers you (and i until recently have) for the A/C on are less than the A/C off, which is backwards from what evo's have...and common sense tells us. Try, just for fun, increasing those values in the A/C on column, the last 2, to the A/C off numbers...and if it helps but doesn't fix it, maybe slightly higher than. Make sure she's nice and warm though.

HornstarBU

iTrader: (7)

Maybe an intersting tidbit, maybe not...dunno.

I swapped back to the lancer MAF this weekend, and my car still does the oscillating idle, where it dips, then recovers, dips, then recovers....so, that's something separate i'm guessing, with some sort of idle trim that eventually evens itself out....I'm putting the evo MAF back in again, and letting it learn for a week or 2, to see if it gets it all right.

ClixT

iTrader: (2)

At first I thought I finally tuned it right, but i was wrong. Did 5 more logs and it's back to knock frenzy..
I gave up tuning the damn maf. I'm gonna bring it to a pro tuner...

HornstarBU

iTrader: (7)

I bet you can get it right. Define knock frenzy, 2....10? Consistently in the same spot still, what load?

My issue seemed to be that the honeycomb is missing from my sensor. Just reduce the Maf scaling until it's all the right AFR's and this swap to 399 will work.....wish that dude I bought it from hadn't neglected to mention he ripped the honey comb out, and then acted like a dick when I asked him about it.

Oh, if ltft's are negative, go to forced open loop, and tune maf scaling so that the airs are right at each Hz level. Mine went neg cause idle maf hz were throwing it off.

ClixT

iTrader: (2)

It was knocking on cruise most of the time but usually all over the places..
and im getting from 6 - 16 counts of knock pretty much all the time and the ltft were +.

Ill just bring to a tuner, makes life easier and imma start summer classes pretty soon...

HornstarBU

iTrader: (7)

Knocks at cruise can sort of be ignored. More important is that it's about "right" compared to the stock rom. If you are cruising like 8 degrees more than stock, maybe that's bad, but stock-ish settings, and you should be fine. The "knock-load" setting that says to ignore below a certain load ought to filter out the noisy clutch stuff, below 70 load I'm thinking you can ignore on a sane ignition map.

trims though...bad news bears. Set it to open loop, see if the AFR is right at the specific maf hz levels, and adjust maf scaling until it's right all over. Lower MAF hz means leaner AFR.

ClixT

iTrader: (2)

It is real knock.. I decided to go back to stock maf for now.
Also with the 501 maf, when doing a WOT its getting leaner instead of getting richer..

HornstarBU

iTrader: (7)

I guess yeah, I did the same...swapped back to stock. Then, I realized a few things about scaling, like to just match the AFR's at each Hz lvl, and I got the 399 running cleaner than the stock one. It does much better with the A/C on now, much better from a start, and the loads are so much more consistent, no huge swings with light changes in throttle.

Still, if it's knock, lower the timing. Just the MAF can't add knock, it's a change in timing that can, or running really lean/rich. Did you see the same load at idle, for either maf? Same max load either maf? Did you run in open loop, by setting thresholds to 10 load or somethin? If you do that, you can adjust the MAF for all the hz ranges so that it's right.

Regardless....I'm goin speed density soon here, just need to get my bung welded on tuesday, and then my map sensor should be in on thursday. It's hopefully going to solve my issues, but yours you might be right to see a tuner about it, since it just seems to be a lot of all over the place issues. Let us know how it goes for sure, wish you were having more luck getting the tuning right.

Just somewhat curious, what timing do you see cruising on the highway at 70? What about sitting at idle? and...I guess WOT too, since I'm asking. Have an EGT gauge?

ClixT

iTrader: (2)

To answer your questions: yup, yup, no coz I don't have much time. I also didn't get a chance to cruise at 70 coz i got chickened out lol.

And yah, I was super lean which is causing knock. At idle, my load is at 25 - 30.. my max WOT was 92 and nope, no egt..

jwick76

iTrader: (1)

hmmm, i'll give it a shot this Thursday when I have a day off. Still working on getting the evo TB converted for cruise...so if this adjustment doesn't do the trick maybe the new tb sensors will do it for me

When i reset the ecu the oscillating in-drive idle (1000-1500 fluctuation) fixes itself, but the at-rest idle dips to 450 and almost stalls out for the first 20 miles of "learning curve". Once the ecu sets itself, the in-drive idle (1000-1500rpm) starts to oscillate again. Now this all started once I started adjusting the idle in ecuflash...which I found was off by 200-300rpm on the tach, so I went to the biss to adjust and the oscillation started. Haven't been able to fix it yet. The reason I had to adjust the idle is when I swapped out to the 4g93 cam the idle was really rough (especially with the RRM motormounts). Now the idle is smoothed out, car runs fine...just have this oscillation I can't get rid of. I'm still trying to figure out how to get SAS mode to work for adjusting the BISS....haven't found anything on it yet. SO I'm hoping that swapping out the tb for one that is stock BISS adjustment will do the trick....

jwick76

iTrader: (1)

I changed the values, no difference. I'm assuming my iacv deal is either needing a deep clean or replacement, so I'll just do that \when i swap out the evo TB.

What i'm noticing now is that I'm throwing a multiple cylinder misfire code, and it feels as if I'm not getting enough fuel after the MAF swap. I just replaced the coils with OBX and new plugs, and if anything the misfires have gotten more noticeable. SHould I be adjusting my fuel trims??

mace1890

has anyone taken that lip off of the maf? i just took it off of the stock maf for the oz the 605 and it opens it up to where its a little bigger then the 482 maybe the same size if not bigger then the 399 and i put the values in for the 399 with the 605 maf in and it ran great idk why no one has done this before or if they have i just havent seen the post but this can save us a lot of money its like you have the evo maf already instead of paying the 150 for the 399

mace1890