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Old Sep 8, 2009, 04:51 PM
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Originally Posted by TouringBubble
Modifying timing does slightly affect the AFR, but not by much. If you dial in the AFR then tune the timing, you will only need to make minor tweaks to the AFR to get it back in line ... if any.

My suggestion for tuning a boosted lancer is to first apply the modified MAF Scaling settings so that you don't run out of fuel up top. Then, rescale the fuel and timing maps to 110 load. Next, pull about 8º of timing from 80 to 110 load before you do a single pull. That should keep you from seeing knock. Pull more if needed. Set the boost, dial in the fuel and then the timing and that's it.
Can we have this engraved onto a plaque and hang it up in the EvoM living room above the fireplace for all to see? This is what Lancer owners SHOULD follow when tuning a fresh turbo setup.

Beautifully stated, TB!
Old Sep 8, 2009, 04:54 PM
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Originally Posted by crewdawg130
That old school crap that"make her knock then pull it back" is that just crap. Example. let say that At peak torque you have 6deg of timing. then you give it some more to see what happens, then nothing, so you keep giving it more untill she knock like around 12deg. now you pull her back a notch....ok! thats fine, but she stop making power at 8deg of timing..... so why would you wanna give her all that if she dont need it. you want that cushion. THE ONLY WAY YOU CAN SEE THIS ON A DYNO...
True dat! Another excellent point!

And as fragile as our motors can be, that cushion is MORE than welcomed!
Old Sep 8, 2009, 04:58 PM
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Originally Posted by senate6268
True dat! Another excellent point!

And as fragile as our motors can be, that cushion is MORE than welcomed!
Old Sep 8, 2009, 05:17 PM
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Lets keep going with tuning info tips and tricks. I like where this is going. A lot of good info in just three pages. BTW, is there a good writeup yet on how to use evoscan by chance? How to take full advantage of all its features?

Last edited by imalancerman; Sep 8, 2009 at 05:22 PM.
Old Sep 8, 2009, 08:50 PM
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Originally Posted by TouringBubble
You will most likely not ever reach MBT (Minimum Best Torque ... where more timing yields no more power) on pump gas, so it is perfectly logical to add timing until you encounter knock and then pull back a couple of degrees.

If you are on C16, E85 or similar then you do need a way to monitor torque output as you may reach MBT. You don't need a dyno for this. You can use a software application such as Data Log Lab for this assuming your pulls are consistently in the same place on the street.

Modifying timing does slightly affect the AFR, but not by much. If you dial in the AFR then tune the timing, you will only need to make minor tweaks to the AFR to get it back in line ... if any.

My suggestion for tuning a boosted lancer is to first apply the modified MAF Scaling settings so that you don't run out of fuel up top. Then, rescale the fuel and timing maps to 110 load. Next, pull about 8º of timing from 80 to 110 load before you do a single pull. That should keep you from seeing knock. Pull more if needed. Set the boost, dial in the fuel and then the timing and that's it.
Wow thanks. I wish I knew this last year. I've been on this crap "tune" since November. I had my AFR down into the 11s but I started logging and noticed high knock.
Old Sep 8, 2009, 09:56 PM
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so lets put aside a turboed lancer for now, so how do we tune n/a lancers then?
Old Sep 8, 2009, 10:14 PM
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Originally Posted by ClixT
so lets put aside a turboed lancer for now, so how do we tune n/a lancers then?
From what I understand, same concept, little less work. Am I right? I was asking senate questions about tuning awhile back, and basically, from gathering info from him, this thread, and others ive read, first thing you want to do before even messing with your fuel maps is eliminate knock using your timing maps. Then you use your fuel maps to achieve your desired A/F ratio, while keeping an eye on your vitals of course, then you go back into your timing again and advance your timing till you see knock, then back it off 2-3 degrees for cushion. I dunno if that makes sense, and you guys can correct me if Im wrong about anything (which I hope you do as im always up for knowledge), but thats kinda how I am understanding the "basics" of tuning.
Old Sep 9, 2009, 12:19 AM
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Originally Posted by imalancerman
From what I understand, same concept, little less work. Am I right? I was asking senate questions about tuning awhile back, and basically, from gathering info from him, this thread, and others ive read, first thing you want to do before even messing with your fuel maps is eliminate knock using your timing maps. Then you use your fuel maps to achieve your desired A/F ratio, while keeping an eye on your vitals of course, then you go back into your timing again and advance your timing till you see knock, then back it off 2-3 degrees for cushion. I dunno if that makes sense, and you guys can correct me if Im wrong about anything (which I hope you do as im always up for knowledge), but thats kinda how I am understanding the "basics" of tuning.
Sounds right to me lancerman, its the same concept reduce knock, lean out afr's. Except with n/a you can lean the fuel out even more since you dont have a crapload of air being forced into the combustion chambers. Also what I have heard is in general the higher loads you hit the more power you are putting out??
Also you already have your base map from the factory for na tune. Dont have to worry about rescaling anything either I would imagine
Old Sep 9, 2009, 12:22 AM
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Originally Posted by 03lances
Sounds right to me lancerman, its the same concept reduce knock, lean out afr's. Except with n/a you can lean the fuel out even more since you dont have a crapload of air being forced into the combustion chambers. Also what I have heard is in general the higher loads you hit the more power you are putting out??
Also you already have your base map from the factory for na tune. Dont have to worry about rescaling anything either I would imagine
Ya, thats what I meant about it being easier, the rescaling thing. Now also, I cant remember the correct afrs to hit when tuning for both na and turbo. If I remember correctly, 12.5 is ideal for NA, and anywhere from 11-12 is ideal for turbo?
Old Sep 9, 2009, 12:29 AM
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I think so I know I was shooting for 11 to 11.5 when I start tuning and ya I 12.5 sounds right for na. Of course someone with actual experience feel free to correct if we are wrong lol we dont wanna be posting the wrong info.
Old Sep 9, 2009, 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by imalancerman
Ya, thats what I meant about it being easier, the rescaling thing. Now also, I cant remember the correct afrs to hit when tuning for both na and turbo. If I remember correctly, 12.5 is ideal for NA, and anywhere from 11-12 is ideal for turbo?
Just remember this. AFR will not make you any "Significant" power. Timing will make your "real" power. Your AFR are nothing but "Thermal Management" Use your fuel to keep things cool...... later~!
Old Sep 9, 2009, 12:13 PM
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Originally Posted by 03lances
Also you already have your base map from the factory for na tune. Dont have to worry about rescaling anything either I would imagine
Exacly... your volumetric eficiency ( VE ) is already figured out. your fuel cuve is done. all you really have to do is make sure your AFRs are "FLAT". At this point dont matter what afr, youre just trying to flaten out the AFrs at Full throttle to +/- .1.

Step one. make sure you retard the crap out of her when you start this prosses. specially when youre taking away fuel

U folow?
Old Sep 9, 2009, 12:53 PM
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I definitely follow. Im glad to see that no one has corrected anything Ive said yet so maybe Ive got a good understanding of the basics. Still watching those vids 03 posted. Any other tips for tuning?
Old Sep 9, 2009, 03:43 PM
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Originally Posted by imalancerman
Im glad to see that no one has corrected anything Ive said yet so maybe Ive got a good understanding of the basics.
Yes and no. The basic are there. BUT... think about this... earlyer you were saying that you gotto start controling the knock before you do fueling..... if you go about it this way you will be fighting knock every time you take away fuel. Remember that the only way to control knock is to retard ignition or add fuel, but primary retard ignition.... so, the first thing you should do IS fuel, so retard the heck out of her on the high loads (WOT) and get your AFRs flat. Your BUTT dyno is not goin to feel any power yet cause the timing is way retarded. But is cool, youll get there. Then after you get the "advertised in the forums afrs" (what ever that is) cause that what you looking for cause your not in a dyno, then you start adding timing (maybe 2deg at a time, dont get crazy) and thats when the powers starts coming in. If you add timing and the AFRs change then go back and fix the fuel. And the rest is on you cause im not gonna tell you to make her knock and pull it back.....
Old Sep 9, 2009, 03:45 PM
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Do you guys understan what i said earlyer about the VE and fuel curve?


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