ECUflash/ Tactrix cable newb thread
Oct 13, 2010, 04:55 AM
#198
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I never got a chance to do it yesterday i ended up doing a brake job and tinting my friends windows so i will do it today after work. hopefully those settings should atleast make it better if not fix it, ill find out today. Car starts up no prob with the wheather being cold in the morning (30's-40's) starts right up no prob! my car seems to like the cold wheather
Oct 15, 2010, 05:08 AM
#203
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I think last time i logged i was getting to 120 ECUload and 112.8 load 1 byte and 4-5 psi at 4,250 RPM at 67.4 TPS. The load increeses gradually as i accelerate. When in N/A as soon as i hit 100% load im boosting, and anything from 100% and anything after 100% is while im in boost. I have yet to do a 100% TPS pull LOL one time i got close around 80% and i was like WHOAA! lol I dont have any knock..occasionaly ill get 1-2 but not much at all. AFR are at 12.3 and timing advanced is around 3-7 in boost. I do hit like 10 counts of knock after 4,500...i ddint tune up top yet, so thats next after i can get the car to start by itself!
Last edited by Mitsu.kid.02; Oct 15, 2010 at 05:23 AM.
Oct 15, 2010, 05:51 AM
#204
Keep pulling down the AFR. You're boosted now ... stay in the 11's.
When tuning, there are 3 major steps ...
1: Boost level. This determines the load areas you will be tuning.
2: Fuel. At least roughed in to within .2 of your target across the pull. Perfect it after timing.
3: Timing. This is where you will make power. AFRs may change a little when dialing in timing, but not drastically.
When tuning, there are 3 major steps ...
1: Boost level. This determines the load areas you will be tuning.
2: Fuel. At least roughed in to within .2 of your target across the pull. Perfect it after timing.
3: Timing. This is where you will make power. AFRs may change a little when dialing in timing, but not drastically.
Oct 15, 2010, 06:14 AM
#205
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Keep pulling down the AFR. You're boosted now ... stay in the 11's.
When tuning, there are 3 major steps ...
1: Boost level. This determines the load areas you will be tuning.
2: Fuel. At least roughed in to within .2 of your target across the pull. Perfect it after timing.
3: Timing. This is where you will make power. AFRs may change a little when dialing in timing, but not drastically.
When tuning, there are 3 major steps ...
1: Boost level. This determines the load areas you will be tuning.
2: Fuel. At least roughed in to within .2 of your target across the pull. Perfect it after timing.
3: Timing. This is where you will make power. AFRs may change a little when dialing in timing, but not drastically.
doin it today man...will i feel a power loss from the added fuel?
Oct 15, 2010, 12:33 PM
#208
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I think if you add too much gas, you're going to lose power and bog down. If you do too little, you'll run hot, so hit the lower end of the spectrum, don't push your luck and try to do a 12afr tune I think.
Timing is really where power is made or lost....fuel is more for safety, in that range. If you get too far from 11-12 afr, you'll probably see knock (there is rich and lean knock from what I know). Just get fuel right, then tune the timing. It's hard to go from non turbo to turbo, because you have to get them both right pretty quick, or you risk engine damage. So always stop when you see knock and pull timing if the afr's are "good".
Timing is really where power is made or lost....fuel is more for safety, in that range. If you get too far from 11-12 afr, you'll probably see knock (there is rich and lean knock from what I know). Just get fuel right, then tune the timing. It's hard to go from non turbo to turbo, because you have to get them both right pretty quick, or you risk engine damage. So always stop when you see knock and pull timing if the afr's are "good".
Oct 15, 2010, 12:39 PM
#209
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I think if you add too much gas, you're going to lose power and bog down. If you do too little, you'll run hot, so hit the lower end of the spectrum, don't push your luck and try to do a 12afr tune I think.
Timing is really where power is made or lost....fuel is more for safety, in that range. If you get too far from 11-12 afr, you'll probably see knock (there is rich and lean knock from what I know). Just get fuel right, then tune the timing. It's hard to go from non turbo to turbo, because you have to get them both right pretty quick, or you risk engine damage. So always stop when you see knock and pull timing if the afr's are "good".
Timing is really where power is made or lost....fuel is more for safety, in that range. If you get too far from 11-12 afr, you'll probably see knock (there is rich and lean knock from what I know). Just get fuel right, then tune the timing. It's hard to go from non turbo to turbo, because you have to get them both right pretty quick, or you risk engine damage. So always stop when you see knock and pull timing if the afr's are "good".
Thanks for the advice man, whats your name BTW im always callin people man or bro, i can imagine it gets annoying sometimes lol My names Tony
Ill work on the lower AFR tonite!
Oct 20, 2010, 07:00 AM
#210
Given your fairly low boost level (~5psi), 11.5:1 should be fine to run. I have run 11.8:1 on the Evo at 25 psi before in the summer (for some reason it likes leaner fuel and more timing in the summer) with no issues. But, I don't think that fuel change really made a difference other than make the engine sound a lot better.
Since you're learning, I'd suggest playing with different values to see what you end up with. Start with 11.2:1 or so and get a solid tune built. Get some power numbers from one of the dyno calculators available in the ECUFlash forum. Then, pull a little timing and run it up to 11.6:1 or so and see where you end up. See which the car likes better.
Peak power from fuel occurs between 12.2:1 and 13:1 on a turbo car. That shifts a little leaner on an NA car I believe. Within that range, there is little change in power ... but if you are below that range, you can see gains. But, as Horn said, power generally comes from timing.
If you are tuning for the absolute 100% most you can get from the car, you can sometimes squeeze out another HP or 2 by finding the maximum timing you can run and then fine tuning the peak cylinder pressure with the fuel mix, assuming the temps are acceptable. I don't recommend that though as it's not worth the time and doesn't leave much safety margin in the tune.
Since you're learning, I'd suggest playing with different values to see what you end up with. Start with 11.2:1 or so and get a solid tune built. Get some power numbers from one of the dyno calculators available in the ECUFlash forum. Then, pull a little timing and run it up to 11.6:1 or so and see where you end up. See which the car likes better.
Peak power from fuel occurs between 12.2:1 and 13:1 on a turbo car. That shifts a little leaner on an NA car I believe. Within that range, there is little change in power ... but if you are below that range, you can see gains. But, as Horn said, power generally comes from timing.
If you are tuning for the absolute 100% most you can get from the car, you can sometimes squeeze out another HP or 2 by finding the maximum timing you can run and then fine tuning the peak cylinder pressure with the fuel mix, assuming the temps are acceptable. I don't recommend that though as it's not worth the time and doesn't leave much safety margin in the tune.