Here are my logs, let me know what you think!!! I wanna start tuning! This pull is 2nd gear hard acceleration at 5PSI, Im getting ALOT of knock I need to get my ARF logged with evoscan but i looked at my wideband while doing the pull and it stayed 13.9-14.2 the whole time accelerating.. Let me know where i should start first! Just a FYI the speed was set to KM/H i wasnt going 82 MPH in 2d gear in my auto lancer haha

Also there is like a flat spot in my logs that im not sure if its normal or not:

RPM:2,250-2,156 (DECEL)
TPS:14.0
IPW:0
IDC:0
TIMING ADV:0
LTFT low: 8
LTFT mid: 8
LTFT high: 0
STFT 02 sensor: 0
KNOCK: 0
ISC STEPS: 78
ECU LOAD: 11.25

what does this information mean exactly? the injectors just stopped working??? i was decelerating im pretty sure! Follow log cell "119" all the way accross horizontally to see what i mean!

 

It's hard to recommend on tuning without seeing wideband data from what i've heard, I'm no tuning genius. I'll still look when i get to my office, where i have my evoscan/ecuflash laptop. I do know you want afrs to be like 11-11.5 while in boost, and no where near 14 so you need to get those down like, asap if you are doing wot (wide open throttle) pulls.

 

Gotcha, when adding fuel do i only add fuel after a certain load % and RPM? or only when i get into open loop?

 

oye...badly worded question i think. Add fuel where it's needed is sort of the key, through careful trial/error (but not too much error). If you are in closed loop, the fuel tables are not used, the car simply strives for 14.7. Tuning only effects open loop. Are you able to log with a wideband? If so, someone can provide you with more insightful information, but without the external wideband it's basically just a shot in the dark.

You can try and eyeball it if you want, but I hear bad things about doing that, better to log. Make sure the fuel map is nice and smooth, no sharp changes, don't have it go (at 100% load) from 12.5 to 12.2 to 11.9 to 8.9 or something like that, small adjustments, small changes between squares.

 

Ok, i understand what your saying. Yeah i need to log my wideband to the computer somehow, i dont want to try to upload the evo rom to the car cuz im auto and i read all the 40 pages about roadspike doing a mod for auto lancers but i just dont understand the lingo there Ill have to do more research. I have a friend tuning with me tonite to read the AFR the best we can. I have heard there are other ways of logging the ARF gauge to the computer. I think i can tell when its open loop, i think touring said the STFT (02 sensor) will read zero and thats how i can tell in my logs...thats also where ALL my knocks occur. Open loop for me seems to be around 650+ airflow hz and around 3,600+ RPM acceleration according to my logs so far.

So like you said when tuning make small changes and make the transitions nice and not sharp. Say im getting 8 counts of knock at 3,400RPM and the load is 88% with an ARF of 13.8. Do i simply go into the low octane fuel map and at the cell of 3,000 and 3,500 and the load of 80%-90% and in those four squares say the values are set at 11.9 AFR i would enter 11.8, or 10.9?

 

Some answers and a link above.

 

Your aweosme man!Thanks again for helping me out so much, really appreciated! Ok so i put the ROM into the lancer folder. Then i opened the tephra lancer big map.hex and it opened up. Do i simply flash this to my car and the car will be ok to drive?? is it really that simple? I have work tomorro in the morning

 

You'll want to make sure all the data from the lancer rom fits nicely into the tephra or EVO rom. I wouldn't recommend doing that unless you know what you are flashing is safe. If you don't feel comfortable, then you probably shouldn't. I'm not versed enough to approve it for you, but I do know some of the things you want to do is make sure the rev limit matches the lancer, make sure the proper periphery bits are disabled to prevent cel's, and you want to make sure MAF, injector, and fuel/timing maps all match up. Many of these tables use different scalings between the 2 roms, so it's not trivial to make the swap.

The lancer rom should be ok to get it running better, learn tuning, and get a very good base tune going. In the area where the knock occurs, you want to lower the AFR's smoothly from there and beyond. When boost starts, try to get the car at like 12 afr, and then lower as boost increases down to 11.2 or so. When you are lean, you can see knock. When you have spikes in timing, or too much, you can see knock. When you are too rich, even then you can see knock. Try to just reduce the AFR's all over from that spot, and a little before, where you citied the knock. See if you can't get the AFR's down, and be safe, pull about 1 or 2 degrees of timing at that spot. Pull up to 1 degree of timing as boost increases, so from what stock is, if you are boosting 6 psi, make sure at the top end (highest load you see in the logs) that you are like 12 degrees less. You can always increase timing for power later, but get the AFR's down, and if they are down, then pull soem timing for knock.

Did you post your ROM that you are using right now? and I saw your logs are posted there, but i was so busy today that i couldn't get it opened to take a look. I'll try now while i'm watching dexter.


*Edit* Just took a look. You see the way you have load increasing, and the "AFR Map" is like 14.7, then all the sudden it goes DROP! and hits 11. That's knock you are seeing, while you are still in closed loop. I think your open loop thresholds are pretty far off from what they should be. I think you understand them, when the load hits a certain spot at a specific RPM, it uses the table values instead of the standard 14.7 value. You should hit open loop whenever boost is kicking in for sure. Try reducing the open loop thresholds to like, 50 or so at lower rpms and 30 or so at the higher rpms, and maybe the throttle position ones to like, half tps, or 50%, whatever it is.

 

I'm pretty sure RoadSpike has modified the ROM for a base lancer already, but the above is correct. Verify before flashing and be sure to keep a backup of your current and stock ROM to be sure. Moving to the Evo ROM should correct the closed loop issue mentioned above as well as the new ROM should interpret boost correctly.

 

Thanks for the explanations and insite! Very much appreciated! You guys here on this forum are awesome! So like this you mean?





***stock tables are on the top, and the modified ones are below. Is this what you ment?? If so i think i understand what your saying this will change open loop to happen sooner right? I start getting boost around 3,000 RPM or so. This basically tells the ECU that open loop occurs at 50% load at 500-3,000RPM, 30% load at 4,000-4,500RPM and 0% load from 4,500RPM and on, while the TPS is at a min of 2.25v at 500-1000RPM, 1.92v at 2,000-3,500RPM, and from 4,000RPM up there set at the stock values. Am i understanding this the right way?

 

Gotcha..ok if it can simply be flashed to my ecu i might do that, as i have a copy of my stock ROM saved! He mentioned somwhere about having the full 568kb or whatever size it was saved, how do i make sure i have the full stock ROM saved?

**EDIT just took a look at the evo rom and my lancer rom and the maps are different, but only a little bit i think they are just becuase there scaled much larger now. the injector scalling is 302 cc/min should i change mine back to the stock 232cc/min? the airflow tables look good. Open loop tables look to be corrected as well. What are the periphery bits things? they have a bunch of codes in them, are these just disableing the evo CEL codes so they dont come on when we flash it to the lancer?

 

Look in that same link I gave you. there is a file called read templates. Save and unzip those files in to the readtemplates directory in ECUFlash. Then save your ROM again. That will save all of the data.

Yes, change the injector scaling to match your car for now, then adjust for the injectors if the fuel trims are off after a few miles (50 or so). the periphery bits are for CEL codes and such, yes. You only need to mess with those if you need to disable a specific code, such as the rear O2.

 

In decel, the injectors do stop working after a couple of seconds. Basically, the engine is just a big air pump at that point. The mass of the vehicle and the wheels keep the engine turning during this time. When you touch the gas again, the injectors start back up. Most modern cars do this ... it saves fuel.

 

Ok i understand! I unziped and saved all of the readtemplets that were in that folder to the ecuflash "read templets" folder and saved my stock rom and the tephra rom again! Also i will go ahead and rescale the injectors back to stock, and the battery voltage latencys as well! And i do need to disable the rear 02 sensor, since there isnt even one connected at all and i would like to use the wideband there for logging in evoscan!! is there a value i put into the periphrey bits for disable rear o2?

Ok yeah, thats what i was guessing because i know the car cuts fuel on decel, i just didnt know that it completly cuts fuel off, but this makes sence to me know because i was also wondering why the timing advance was at zero but i can see why now haha me just over thinking things got me nervous

 

Yes, disable the rear O2 if it's gone. There will be an entry for the heater and for the sensor. I want to say there are 3 total entries for the rear O2 ... so just go through all of the periphery settings and toggle all of the rear O2 lines off.

Periphery settings only have 2 options ... 1 (on) and 0 (off).

And You need to save your ROM from the car ... not just from the PC. the one on your PC isn't the entire ROM. I'd even suggest uploading your stock ROM (before any changes) back to the car, then doing a Read from ECU action before loading the RoadSpike ROM. That will be sure to save all of your factory data.