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Piggyback ECU

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Old Feb 3, 2005 | 08:36 PM
  #31  
Boeturbolancer's Avatar
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good stuff guys... like the comparisons and recommendations.
Old Feb 3, 2005 | 08:55 PM
  #32  
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lancermmc, to answer your original question about the piggy.

The ecu takes the current mods you have and the data from the piggyback to make the best possible fuel air ratio you can get. The way I understand it is that when you add another mod/ bolt on (like a header) you need to unplug your battery to reset the ecu. That way when you restart the car the ecu can relearn the fuel curves while taking into account the new header that was just added. So basically you can install the piggy with just an intake and an exhaust. but when you add another mod, to get the best gains, unplug your battery so the ecu resets and learns all over again, this time with the extra mod.

Somebody please correct me if im wrong.
Old Feb 3, 2005 | 09:40 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by timdog4life
lancermmc, to answer your original question about the piggy.

The ecu takes the current mods you have and the data from the piggyback to make the best possible fuel air ratio you can get. The way I understand it is that when you add another mod/ bolt on (like a header) you need to unplug your battery to reset the ecu. That way when you restart the car the ecu can relearn the fuel curves while taking into account the new header that was just added. So basically you can install the piggy with just an intake and an exhaust. but when you add another mod, to get the best gains, unplug your battery so the ecu resets and learns all over again, this time with the extra mod.

Somebody please correct me if im wrong.
so every time you do that wouldnt you need to kinda be easy on the car just like how you first installed the piggy?
Old Feb 3, 2005 | 09:57 PM
  #34  
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From: Frogtown
i dont believe so....but i would only save the juice if ya need it! some one help out thats a good question.
Old Feb 3, 2005 | 10:23 PM
  #35  
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From: Canuckistan
The best bet would be to just get all the other mods and then get the piggyback, save yourself the trouble. Don't forget with the piggyback you'd need to run premium, so why bother with the added fuel cost when you don't really need to?
Old Feb 4, 2005 | 05:17 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by azhunballa
so every time you do that wouldnt you need to kinda be easy on the car just like how you first installed the piggy?
Yes you would have to go easy.

When you reset the piggy it's like you just reinstalled it and it has to relearn everything. I mean everything!!!! I think the break in period was about 2 days or so depending on how many miles driven.

WADAD
Old Feb 5, 2005 | 06:46 AM
  #37  
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it takes about 20 min to relearn how to idle on its own. about a day ( 4 hours of driving) to learn the proper fuel curves.
Old Feb 5, 2005 | 09:24 AM
  #38  
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You can unplug the piggy back if you didnt solder it in already but another option if you did solder it in is to disconnect the battery (positive and negitive) and you can reset it that way. The only problem with thatis your whole ecu has to relearn your car and might run a little funny until it does. I have the piggy and I would have to say it is worth the money. If money is tight and can afford the cam, install of it, and greddy emanage (cost-1500+) then I would definitly recommend getting the piggy. Best decision I made. Plus if you decide to upgrade further you can always sell the piggy. It really doesnt loose value since it is behind your glove box and doesnt see any wear and tear as say a header. Its a no_brainer if you ask me>
Old Feb 5, 2005 | 10:52 AM
  #39  
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Disconnecting it doesn't make it forget whatever RRM programs it do though right?
Old Feb 5, 2005 | 06:50 PM
  #40  
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No, it wont forget anything RRM programmed. But I do have to say its worth it. Every mod you add is that much better with the piggy.
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