02 Lancer OZ Apexi SAFC II settings??
#16
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well since you are turbo, i would put in 93 and tune it to about a 11.8:1 afr to start, then look at your egt guage and if you feel you can tune for say a 12:1, then go tune for a 12:1 and check your egt guage while tuning and then go drive the car hard for a bit and as long as you stay under 800-840 degrees celcius, you should be all set.
long story short, tune your afr's so that when your driving the car hard your egt doesnt go above 800-840 degrees c. i would be using super all the time if i were you, your compression in boost is prolly like 14:1 lol.
it is best to tune in 4th, BUT, where the hell are you gonna find a local road to go from say 30mph to 105mph multiple times until you have it tuned right. if i were you i would tune in 3rd and just shoot a little richer on your afr's. if your tuning in 3rd, you are going to want to shoot maybe 3-5 tenths richer on your a/f ratio target.
say if your in 3rd gear, and you tuned your car so your egt's dont go above 840 degrees celcius, and say your a/f is 12.3:1, then in forth gear, since it will lean out a little in each gear, your a/f ratio will prolly be like 12.5:1 and then your gonna be running too hot and could blow it up, my point being if u tune in 3rd, shoot for a max egt guage reading of about 750-780 degrees c, this way the car will be tuned correctly and be happier than if it was all peachy in 3rd gear and lean in fourth.
dont worry once u start tuning it all becomes clear very quickly, it really is easier than u think, i mean as long as you dont go too lean nothing bad can happen, except your wallet will shrink from burning a LOT of gas money.
im partial to innovate btw, i love how it works/looks, and all its features, maybe thats just because i never had a plx though.
long story short, tune your afr's so that when your driving the car hard your egt doesnt go above 800-840 degrees c. i would be using super all the time if i were you, your compression in boost is prolly like 14:1 lol.
it is best to tune in 4th, BUT, where the hell are you gonna find a local road to go from say 30mph to 105mph multiple times until you have it tuned right. if i were you i would tune in 3rd and just shoot a little richer on your afr's. if your tuning in 3rd, you are going to want to shoot maybe 3-5 tenths richer on your a/f ratio target.
say if your in 3rd gear, and you tuned your car so your egt's dont go above 840 degrees celcius, and say your a/f is 12.3:1, then in forth gear, since it will lean out a little in each gear, your a/f ratio will prolly be like 12.5:1 and then your gonna be running too hot and could blow it up, my point being if u tune in 3rd, shoot for a max egt guage reading of about 750-780 degrees c, this way the car will be tuned correctly and be happier than if it was all peachy in 3rd gear and lean in fourth.
dont worry once u start tuning it all becomes clear very quickly, it really is easier than u think, i mean as long as you dont go too lean nothing bad can happen, except your wallet will shrink from burning a LOT of gas money.
im partial to innovate btw, i love how it works/looks, and all its features, maybe thats just because i never had a plx though.
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so maxum, what do you think a good afr would be for N/A? i've got the PLX M-250, after reading all the write ups, I decided that it would be the best for what I need, and many of the EVO owners had suggested it. I just need to get a bung welded in my DP now.
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Originally Posted by oz4g94
so maxum, what do you think a good afr would be for N/A? i've got the PLX M-250, after reading all the write ups, I decided that it would be the best for what I need, and many of the EVO owners had suggested it. I just need to get a bung welded in my DP now.
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Originally Posted by oz4g94
ok, thanks man. i had read that stoich on spark ignition cars is ~14.7 and that kinda seemed a little too lean.
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Originally Posted by 03RallyLancer
a lil OT but i think i remember you stating your were looking at the PLX unit... just to let you know i was planning on going the same way until i found out you need to drop like 400+ to get the unit to datalog. I ended up with the zeitronix unit and a nice additional feature is that you can get a egt sensor from them and have the unit data log that as well
Only problem is if you don't have a laptop, you'll have to get a gauge that can read WBO2 output, or get a narrowband A/F gauge and the PLX conversion box (which they NEVER have in stock).
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my .02 if it helps anyone.
Good luck street tuning it in a day. When you get it dialed in as soon as the weather changes you have to change it. You know you are on the "edge" you are looking for when you have to tune it to the weather. It's getting cold in MN I have added fuel back for the last couple days.
I have been tuning mine for years basically. It's an ongoing process when I see it hitting a few bars rich, I note the RPMs and the throttle position and remove from that point on which ever map depending on how far the throttle was down.
You have to remeber the AFC "averages" the changes you make from one throttle point to another and from the high and low map depending on the throttle position. Changes make a difference at more than just the point at which you make the change.
I do it with the EGT and a narrow band. At cruising speeds I have it so it hits the last bar of stoich on the narrow band. WOT it hits the first one or two bars of rich. I only pay attention to where it hits on the rich/stoich side of the guage. When it flip (goes down) it doesn't matter. Thats just how the O2 sensor works, you are concerned about the up sweep not the down.
The EGT I look at to make sure the temps dont get out of hand.
At 70mph in 5th gear I run about 1275 degrees. THat is with the probe installed where autometer says to, right next to the head in the first runner.
My gas mileage went from 25 mixed to 34 mpg mixed driving.
I can offer no tips to what to set your own as. I adjust fuel pressure too, so mine is different than anyone elses.
My throttle points are 20% and 80%
Blah Blah I'm done.
Good luck street tuning it in a day. When you get it dialed in as soon as the weather changes you have to change it. You know you are on the "edge" you are looking for when you have to tune it to the weather. It's getting cold in MN I have added fuel back for the last couple days.
I have been tuning mine for years basically. It's an ongoing process when I see it hitting a few bars rich, I note the RPMs and the throttle position and remove from that point on which ever map depending on how far the throttle was down.
You have to remeber the AFC "averages" the changes you make from one throttle point to another and from the high and low map depending on the throttle position. Changes make a difference at more than just the point at which you make the change.
I do it with the EGT and a narrow band. At cruising speeds I have it so it hits the last bar of stoich on the narrow band. WOT it hits the first one or two bars of rich. I only pay attention to where it hits on the rich/stoich side of the guage. When it flip (goes down) it doesn't matter. Thats just how the O2 sensor works, you are concerned about the up sweep not the down.
The EGT I look at to make sure the temps dont get out of hand.
At 70mph in 5th gear I run about 1275 degrees. THat is with the probe installed where autometer says to, right next to the head in the first runner.
My gas mileage went from 25 mixed to 34 mpg mixed driving.
I can offer no tips to what to set your own as. I adjust fuel pressure too, so mine is different than anyone elses.
My throttle points are 20% and 80%
Blah Blah I'm done.
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