throttle response
#1
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throttle response
throttle response is when you step on the gas, how long it takes for the power to get delivered, right?
i have an auto, and it takes a long time for the power to come if i floor it after the turn, which hurts me quite a bit in autox. what mods are best value (not cheapest, but best value) for making this better?
i have an auto, and it takes a long time for the power to come if i floor it after the turn, which hurts me quite a bit in autox. what mods are best value (not cheapest, but best value) for making this better?
#2
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If you autocross in "D", you might want to try driving in "3" or "2" so that way the car never goes into overdrive.
*This may over work your tranny - so try at your own risk*
I recommend you get headers, intake, and a testpipe or a highflow cat (not a catback exhaust because it opens up the exhaust too much and you will lose backpressure). Throttlebody and Intake Manifold are supposed to make your throttle response better as well. Doing some of these mods might take you out of whichever class you are in right now, so that is something to think about too. If you are in a stock class and want to stay in a stock class.. K&N drop in filter, ported IM and TB would properly help a bit.
*This may over work your tranny - so try at your own risk*
I recommend you get headers, intake, and a testpipe or a highflow cat (not a catback exhaust because it opens up the exhaust too much and you will lose backpressure). Throttlebody and Intake Manifold are supposed to make your throttle response better as well. Doing some of these mods might take you out of whichever class you are in right now, so that is something to think about too. If you are in a stock class and want to stay in a stock class.. K&N drop in filter, ported IM and TB would properly help a bit.
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That has been the most unplesant thing I've had to deal with in my auto lancer, besides gas mileage. The one auto-x I did, I so could have done better with a faster downshift from my tranny... I wouldn't try the drive in 2nd or 3rd gear setup but once to see what might happen. But the best thing to learn to do in our autos is to punch the gas 1-1.5 seconds early out of the corners; seeing that it's about that long,if not longer, to downshift...
Good luck
Good luck
#5
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Don't get a test pipe, it ruins your low end. I would say do intake, headers, throttle body, intake manifold and maybe a catback exhaust. Test pipes and HFCs are best left for heavily modified NA engines or turbo applications. There's no point in spending 100$ and have problems with smog, sound levels, smell, etc. (in the case of a test pipe) when at most you'll get 2 hp out of it on a lightly modified engine.
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the rrm pulley and everything on the intake side will greatly increase the throttle response. And for auto, with a short ram intake, the shorter it is the better throttle response is. Example, any short ram using the stock throttle body tube will have better throttle response than the K&N Typhoon that has that long tube out to the header.
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#10
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Off-topic a little, but what do you guys think about a riced out car with a muffler adaptor (2" to 3") as a muffler tip? Extra hp there?
Sorry, had to post what I just saw earlier...
Sorry, had to post what I just saw earlier...
#12
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Hmmm. I don't think it takes long for my auto to downshift. Even at cruising speeds when I go to pass I can tap the gas up to a downshift and by time I move out my OZ is already getting on it. I'd say it takes about 1.5 seconds.
Got it down to a science!
On a side note if your trying to get a downshift and it won't I have tried shifting into Neutral (off of the gas) then back into Drive (Still off of the gas) and then I would get a downshift...can anyone else confirm this?
Got it down to a science!
On a side note if your trying to get a downshift and it won't I have tried shifting into Neutral (off of the gas) then back into Drive (Still off of the gas) and then I would get a downshift...can anyone else confirm this?
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Originally Posted by ambystom01
Don't get a test pipe, it ruins your low end. I would say do intake, headers, throttle body, intake manifold and maybe a catback exhaust. Test pipes and HFCs are best left for heavily modified NA engines or turbo applications. There's no point in spending 100$ and have problems with smog, sound levels, smell, etc. (in the case of a test pipe) when at most you'll get 2 hp out of it on a lightly modified engine.
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not a good idea. you can remove a little slack but tightening it at all isnt really good because it is set so that when you floor it, the throttle opens fully. if you tighten it more, then when you have it floored, you'll be putting a lot of tension on the cable and theres a possibility of breaking it. some say theres a screw on top of the throttle body that you can turn to adjust idle but i and most others cant seem to either find it or make it do anything.