Synthetic Oil = BAD
Jun 3, 2003, 02:39 PM
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Synthetic Oil = BAD
well boys and girls, just got back from my buddies shop and well the motor is torn out of the car and torn apart. If you havent heard I blew my motor, and we pulled it out to figure out what was the prob...well the pistons all look ok, but piston 4 rod bearing spun and went insane on my motor...
opened up the motor and the head looks fine, crank is all jacked up, from the bearing, so now i need a new crank. I am adding JE Forged pistons in just to make me feel better and I have to now replace my oil pump and oil pickup line. I am also replacing my head gasket, intake manifold gasket, and exhaust manifold gasket.
Just some fun in the sun...Hopefully all will be put back together this week or the next. Here are some pix...
opened up the motor and the head looks fine, crank is all jacked up, from the bearing, so now i need a new crank. I am adding JE Forged pistons in just to make me feel better and I have to now replace my oil pump and oil pickup line. I am also replacing my head gasket, intake manifold gasket, and exhaust manifold gasket.
Just some fun in the sun...Hopefully all will be put back together this week or the next. Here are some pix...
Jun 3, 2003, 02:45 PM
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So...why was it the synthetic's fault? 
Especially curious because I'm about to switch to Mobil 1. Moving out of Show and Shine too because it really doesn't belong here.
Especially curious because I'm about to switch to Mobil 1. Moving out of Show and Shine too because it really doesn't belong here.
Jun 3, 2003, 02:49 PM
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synthetic was my whole problem on this motor. The synthetic oil is not a good combo to use on our motor, turbo'd or not. Rob at RRM told me guys with NA motors have been getting oil lights due to lack of oil pressure on these motors in combination with the synthetic oil. I was running a 10w30 synthetic and you see what happened.
The sythnetic oil runs very thin when it gets hot in a motor and with the combination of the turbo it finally just ran out of pressure and gave up. I am lucky this is all that happened to the car...
The sythnetic oil runs very thin when it gets hot in a motor and with the combination of the turbo it finally just ran out of pressure and gave up. I am lucky this is all that happened to the car...
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Jun 3, 2003, 02:51 PM
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anybody can go and ask Rob he will tell you the same thing. Get rid of the synthetic and run a mobile 1 20w50 normal oil. Motor loves it!
Jun 3, 2003, 03:00 PM
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Thanks for the warning, I will not be getting the synthetic blend on my next oil change. I thought I was doing my motor a favor by using the more expensive synthetic blend. Sorry to hear you blew your motor Kris.
Sorry to hear you blew your motor Kris.
Jun 3, 2003, 03:04 PM
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I'm not buying it! I love how someone throws on a turbo, or like, without regard to internals or other affected systems and then when it breaks they blame the oil? Bull****! Synthetic oil is probably the best thing this engine had going for it. It has better resistance to thermal and viscosity breakdown than regular oil and better anti-sludge properties. This person that is now an oil "expert" isn't the same one that built this engine is it? If it is, don't you think they have a vested interest in blaming something other than what they did? Why do you think the manufacturers of some of the best performance cars out there, including Mitsu, recommend - indeed require - the use of synthetic lubricants. You're barking up the wrong tree.
My $.02 worth.
Adios,
Fusoguy
Jun 3, 2003, 03:11 PM
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Read up people... 
The synthetics offer the only truly significant differences, due to their superior high temperature oxidation resistance, high film strength, very low tendency to form deposits, stable viscosity base, and low temperature flow characteristics. Synthetics are superior lubricants compared to traditional petroleum oils. You will have to decide if their high cost is justified in your application.
The extended oil drain intervals given by the vehicle manufacturers (typically 7500 miles) and synthetic oil companies (up to 25,000 miles) are for what is called normal service. Normal service is defined as the engine at normal operating temperature, at highway speeds, and in a dust free environment. Stop and go, city driving, trips of less than 10 miles, or extreme heat or cold puts the oil change interval into the severe service category, which is 3000 miles for most vehicles. Synthetics can be run two to three times the mileage of petroleum oils with no problems. They do not react to combustion and combustion by-products to the extent that the dead dinosaur juice does. The longer drain intervals possible help take the bite out of the higher cost of the synthetics. If your car or bike is still under warranty you will have to stick to the recommended drain intervals. These are set for petroleum oils and the manufacturers make no official allowance for the use of synthetics.
http://www.vtr.org/maintain/oil-overview.html
The synthetics offer the only truly significant differences, due to their superior high temperature oxidation resistance, high film strength, very low tendency to form deposits, stable viscosity base, and low temperature flow characteristics. Synthetics are superior lubricants compared to traditional petroleum oils. You will have to decide if their high cost is justified in your application.
The extended oil drain intervals given by the vehicle manufacturers (typically 7500 miles) and synthetic oil companies (up to 25,000 miles) are for what is called normal service. Normal service is defined as the engine at normal operating temperature, at highway speeds, and in a dust free environment. Stop and go, city driving, trips of less than 10 miles, or extreme heat or cold puts the oil change interval into the severe service category, which is 3000 miles for most vehicles. Synthetics can be run two to three times the mileage of petroleum oils with no problems. They do not react to combustion and combustion by-products to the extent that the dead dinosaur juice does. The longer drain intervals possible help take the bite out of the higher cost of the synthetics. If your car or bike is still under warranty you will have to stick to the recommended drain intervals. These are set for petroleum oils and the manufacturers make no official allowance for the use of synthetics.
http://www.vtr.org/maintain/oil-overview.html
Last edited by Kareem@Accolade; Jun 3, 2003 at 03:13 PM.
Jun 3, 2003, 03:11 PM
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I happen to agree with Fusoguy! If you feel that the synthetic was too then, then run a 0w-40...
Synthetic is superior to dino in every fashion...less friction, less thermal breakdown, no sludge, and a higher film strength.
A good bit of advice..."Don't believe everything that somebody tells you."
Synthetic is superior to dino in every fashion...less friction, less thermal breakdown, no sludge, and a higher film strength.
A good bit of advice..."Don't believe everything that somebody tells you."
Jun 3, 2003, 03:12 PM
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ok, first off, i am only repeating what people of very respectable places have told me. The problems to this motor has happened to other people as well. I am not knocking sythnetic oil, it does have some great characteristics, but with this motor it's a bad combo. Rob at RRM told me of guys getting oil lights from running sythnetic on NA motors. The 4G94 motor that we have has had numerous cases run on it and a main problem with this motor is oil pressure. When running a thin oil like the synthetic you are causing a lot of the parts on the motor to heat up due to the lack of lubrication.
I mean what could you come to a conclusion on when you pull your motor out and find out you spun a rod bearing in your motor....
as far as internals go, my pistons looked fine, my cylinder walls were fine, my valves were fine, but now I am going to do things right cause this motor is opened and I am going to drop in forged internals. I want to be safe with this motor and still be able to run it when i want to...
I only posted this to let people out there know that they need to be careful. Ask question, and find out what to do and what not to do. Or else you will be in the same boat I am in.
I mean what could you come to a conclusion on when you pull your motor out and find out you spun a rod bearing in your motor....
as far as internals go, my pistons looked fine, my cylinder walls were fine, my valves were fine, but now I am going to do things right cause this motor is opened and I am going to drop in forged internals. I want to be safe with this motor and still be able to run it when i want to...
I only posted this to let people out there know that they need to be careful. Ask question, and find out what to do and what not to do. Or else you will be in the same boat I am in.