sdhotwn

I am surprised that everyone is full of credulity when it comes to your dyno. I used a similar mustang Dyno and according to everyone posting in my thread the Mustang dyno gives inflated numbers around the 100Hp mark.

WHich one is it people? I'm not going to say it didn't upset me when people doubted the figures I got with simply a header, KN panel filter and replacement muffler.

My Hp/tq graph is suprisingly similar to the shape of yours.

I have an intake now so next time I get the chance I'll probably go back and see if there is any improvement.

WADAD

 

I'd like to know how they are maintaining that a dyno can give inflated numbers around a certain hp mark since the equations used for generating those numbers are completely linear. Additionally, the mustang dyno works by applying a calculated drag force on the rollers through eddy currents to simulate air drag and force the motor to overcome a continuous load versus a dynojet relies purely on a large rotating mass. The mustang has both a large flywheel mass to be contended with as well as the eddy current drag to simulate reality for the wheels.

Based on physics and the pure mathematics I don't know how someone can maintain that there is inflation at a particular hp number... I could almost believe or justify for a specific roller speed... but nothing else.

WADAD, provide a link to your thread... I'd like to read through it and it is good for further comparison against my dyno as well.

The shape of our graphs should remain pretty consistent until fuel maps or timings are changed. Some small flattening or peaking can occur from exhaust and intake modifications due to the effect of backpressure changes. But otherwise the curves should remain consistent.

 

I found your thread and read through it a bit... I'm a bit surprised too.. your numbers are a little high. Almost unreasonably so. Basically between our Lancer's the only difference is headers and that is supposedly accounting for nearly 32 hp???? Not going to happen. My numbers line up just where they should be. Standard loss through a manual drivetrain is right around 20-25%. So on a 120 hp car that would put you at about 96 whp on the optimistic side. So that lines up very close to where I am at. Additionally SCC an others have used dynojets when they posted numbers of stock lancers being around 103 whp. Which again still lines up.

 

OK

Just got in from work so you are basically saying the same thing as the others then.

I am sorry but contrary to popular belief I do think the KN panel filter and the removal of the stock muffler for a straight through made a big difference to the vehicle. I held my hand over the stock air inlet and with the KN panel filter the suction was a lot stronger than with the stock filter.

We made 2 pulls and the second pull only yielded 1-2 hp higher so I think the consistency was there.

All this talk and the proof is in the pudding. I wish someone else enjoyed track day as much as I do but I have only seen one Lancer there in 4 times. An ES the last time.

Of course then I am sure people would boil that down to driving skills.

OH well
I give

WADAD

Oh and technically you have 17 inch wheels which I am sure are heavier than stock. I have spoken to other members on the board who rode in Lancers that had more mods than I but because of the excess weight of the rims the car did not perform as well. I got rid of the 16's I was saving of my other car because when I put the first one on it felt like it weighed nearly twice the stock rim and tire. These were 16 inch KMC rebels with 205/40/16 tires.

 

The thing is that I HAVE a straight through 2.25" exhaust and I have KandN short intake. So our cars are the same OTHER than the headers. Headers giving nearly 40% improvement... just isn't likely.

Sure the dyno may have been consistent run to run... but that has nothing to do with dyno to dyno or car to car. There's a big discrepancy between what you got and what everyone else has. You just need to find the reason for the discrepancy. Otherwise you are DAMN lucky :-) Dyno again at another location. If you get it again... then nuff said I guess.

Later.

 

Oh and I have thought about dynoing again but I factored in what I could buy with that money and figured oh well. I was trying to help people find quality stuff when I dyno'd the car but I guess if it's too good to believe then buy what you guys feel is best.

WADAD

 

That's great... and don't give up on trying to do stuff like that because this experience wasn't that great... dynoing can be really expensive... or if you are lucky and you can find a place that'll do it cheap... (I got my car dynoed for 40 bucks.. I can get it done again for less probably) then that'll work out.

I don't think there is any doubt that the RPW headers are good.

It's great that you posted numbers though... keep it up. Your car dynoed at what it dyoned at. Use that dyno again for any future stuff you do.. or you need to start over witha baseline from a different one. Just stay consistent.

 

My lancer will never be fast.

 

word

 

With proper Mods and anything is possible...

 

And to get those mods....mucho $$$$$$$$$$$

 

Depends on how you look at it If you buy an ES or LS and then put the difference between it and a EVO on speed upgrades, could you not possibly end up with a faster car? You would be playing with 13-15 grand. I think you could You will not get all the nice extras the EVO has like the seats, etc but you could build one hell of a power plant!!! Just food for thought, I would rather have the EVO myself, but this is another option.

 

First of all... PLEASE KEEP THIS ON TOPIC....

And second... since you already ran it off topic.... Lancers can be fast.. and it doesn't cost any much more than any newer import (as in model years). Just because civics and eclipses which have been around for ages are cheap to mod because it's been done a thousand times has no bearing on our Lancers. For 6-8-10K you'll get a LOT out of the Lancer. 13's is respectable if you are a quarter mile person.

What you need to realize too is that our cars are very good at handling when modded properly. I've been able to easily outdrive a good number of cars at auto-x with the Lancer. Even when I am very much out horsepowered. The cars are good. If you want something cheap and easy and simple and requires no intelligence then go buy yourself a civic and have some shop do the work and waste a few G's and be like everyone else. Or better yet go buy an 8 cylinder... do just shy of nothing and have a "fast" car that can't do **** in a turn.

Nuff said... back on topic please. This is a dyno thread.

 

Standard loss through a manual drivetrain is right around 20-25%
=========================

That's not true IF you have AWD. Then, you'll get that much driveline lost. Also, you'll probably getting the same driveline lost on a bloated crewcab.

A manual FWD should be around 15-18%. I can't remember RWD #'s.

 

FYI a bone stock LS1 runs 12's. Front wheel drive open differential 4 cylinder NA setup is hardly respectable in the drag racing world, by any means.

What suspension mods do you have, what tires do you run, which club do you run with, what class are you in? Last I checked, the Lancer was way underdamped, had soft springs, was unwilling to rotate, and had very limited aftermarket support for suspension parts.

And with this last comment, I seriously question your racing experience. Are you saying that 8 cylinder cars are too heavy and can't negotiate turns like your FWD econobox? Last I checked those F-bodies and Z06's were kicking some serious *** around the cones, when driven properly, that is. Perhaps you should check out http://www.sfrscca.org/ and look up some of our event results. You can also look at http://www.scca.org/amateur/solo2/na...esults/groups/ for results of their national events. Pay attention to the C-Prep guys...